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Discussion Starter #1
In a stock set-up (93 XLT) what makes a blue spring better then the stock Gold one? With the stock gold my engagement is 4100 rpm with the blue its about 4600 rpm. The sleds seems to perform fine with the gold, there's no bog on take off. I know the higher engagement is closer to the power band, is that the reason? Its seems smother with the gold. Looking for a little feed back.--Thanks--Mike
 

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blue will pull a tad faster out of the hole. Really is driver prefrence. Each work well.
 

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Ive got the same issue. Someone changed the spring in my XLT to blue. BUT, you have to use a wider belt too. Cheapest on eis like 100 bucks. Stay with the original spring if you want to travel the trails and go slow at times. Cant go through deep show with the blue spring either, burns out the belts fast. HOW hard is it to change back???
 

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Discussion Starter #4
pinecarpenter said:
Ive got the same issue. Someone changed the spring in my XLT to blue. BUT, you have to use a wider belt too. Cheapest on eis like 100 bucks. Stay with the original spring if you want to travel the trails and go slow at times. Cant go through deep show with the blue spring either, burns out the belts fast. HOW hard is it to change back???
I'm running the wider belt, that's suppose to give a little better performance. Changing the primary spring is not hard. You need a puller to get the clutch off, once off remove the six bolts on the cover, take out one spring and install the other. Be very careful not to overtighten the bolts, they can break.
 

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I do know that when you change springs you should look at weights also. Example stock gold spring and 49 gram weights engagement 3800, change to stronger blue spring same weights engagement will be higher 4200. Just saying
 

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The main reason to install a blue spring is to match the heavier weights the XLT requires and when you do the engagement rpm will be close to stock. Mike, I know you have my clutching recommendations and installing half the "kit" is not always ideal. Also the blue spring matches the steeper initial angle helix I recommended because it will load engine harder. There is always a balance act to follow to match sleds powerband.


The spring color has nothing to do with belt width-it's the helix in secondary. Running an overdrive (wider) belt allows you to increase gear ratio for acceleration but gives you same top speed.

Ask Darby- 93polarisxlt about his results as he changed weights, springs, helix and gears. I know he told me how much harder it pulls all the way to top and gets great fuel mileage now.
 

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pinecarpenter said:
Ive got the same issue. Someone changed the spring in my XLT to blue. BUT, you have to use a wider belt too. Cheapest on eis like 100 bucks. Stay with the original spring if you want to travel the trails and go slow at times. Cant go through deep show with the blue spring either, burns out the belts fast. HOW hard is it to change back???
Have to use a wide belt? Can't go through deep snow with the blue spring? [confused]

In my experience, I don't find either of those statements to be true. [Disappointed] I don't use a wider belt, and I find that combined with appropriate gearing for the riding conditions and the particular sled setup, the blue spring is better than the gold spring for deep snow/mountain riding. I use a blue spring with 47g weights, and I put 49g weights in my wife's clutch (with blue spring). My wife's is geared a tooth lower on the top sprocket, and they both do very well in deep snow.
 

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old_school said:
pinecarpenter said:
Ive got the same issue. Someone changed the spring in my XLT to blue. BUT, you have to use a wider belt too. Cheapest on eis like 100 bucks. Stay with the original spring if you want to travel the trails and go slow at times. Cant go through deep show with the blue spring either, burns out the belts fast. HOW hard is it to change back???
Have to use a wide belt? Can't go through deep snow with the blue spring? [confused]

In my experience, I don't find either of those statements to be true. [Disappointed] I don't use a wider belt, and I find that combined with appropriate gearing for the riding conditions and the particular sled setup, the blue spring is better than the gold spring for deep snow/mountain riding. I use a blue spring with 47g weights, and I put 49g weights in my wife's clutch (with blue spring). My wife's is geared a tooth lower on the top sprocket, and they both do very well in deep snow.
So it really it still comes down to riders preference, powder , hills, trails, ect.......
 

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Thinksno said:
The main reason to install a blue spring is to match the heavier weights the XLT requires and when you do the engagement rpm will be close to stock. Mike, I know you have my clutching recommendations and installing half the "kit" is not always ideal. Also the blue spring matches the steeper initial angle helix I recommended because it will load engine harder. There is always a balance act to follow to match sleds powerband.


The spring color has nothing to do with belt width-it's the helix in secondary. Running an overdrive (wider) belt allows you to increase gear ratio for acceleration but gives you same top speed.

Ask Darby- 93polarisxlt about his results as he changed weights, springs, helix and gears. I know he told me how much harder it pulls all the way to top and gets great fuel mileage now.[/color=red]


From my personal experience, I went to a spring real similar to the blue with a two tooth gear reduction (20/40 instead of 21/39) and it does pull a lot harder till the end and it seems like my gas mileage did go up. I used to use basically the same as a bud's Rev, now I use about a gallon less at every fill up. Normal trail riding seems to be about 7000 rpm's..maybe that's the rpm the engine is more efficient at???
 

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Someone changed the gold spring to a blue one. It was recommended by the dealer to go wider with the belt. Im not sure if it was done right BC it chews up belts. If you change one spring, you need to change the secondary too. Cant just change one. Im suprised all these "professionals" on this site havent mentioned this in all their jumble powerband talk.
 

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Bs....You don't have to change both springs.....Who feed you that line of crap??? You can change any single componet to change the the way the engine responds.
 

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Listen..the line of "crap" came from the The dealer, the comet clutch manual, the mechanic at the sled shop attached to the dealership, parts unlimited, The graph on the back pacckage of the new clutch springs...and me. Ive owned sleds for 25 years. The timing will be off if one closes at a higher Rpm then the other. They are made to match. Read more..ride more, and sit infront of the computer less
 

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Well I still call bs. I have been working on sleds for over 25 years. You can changes the weights, springs and helixs to do what you want. There are many combinations that do work better than what the sleds come from the factory with. When changing clutching you change 1 part and then test. Not all of them.

I have read the aaen tuning book from cover to cover more than once. More info in that than the comet book.

Sounds like the "dealer" wants to sell you parts you don't need. I would love to see a "book" that states what springs match to each other. Other than the oem matchings that comet and the parts houses have.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thinksno said:
The main reason to install a blue spring is to match the heavier weights the XLT requires and when you do the engagement rpm will be close to stock. Mike, I know you have my clutching recommendations and installing half the "kit" is not always ideal. Also the blue spring matches the steeper initial angle helix I recommended because it will load engine harder. There is always a balance act to follow to match sleds powerband.


The spring color has nothing to do with belt width-it's the helix in secondary. Running an overdrive (wider) belt allows you to increase gear ratio for acceleration but gives you same top speed.

Ask Darby- 93polarisxlt about his results as he changed weights, springs, helix and gears. I know he told me how much harder it pulls all the way to top and gets great fuel mileage now.
THINKSNO, I know you gave me your clutching recommendations, but I can't seem to find them. This is what I've got tell me what you think please.
Primary Clutch: Blue Spring
Stock Weights (49.5)

Secondary Clutch: SLP's Helix 42/34
SLP's Black spring in the second hole

Also: Have wider belt
Gearing: stock (21/39 or I have a 20/39)

Also I was having a hard engagement, even with the wider belt I have about 50 thousands gap between the clutch and belt. I know changing the spacers on the spider to adjust is what your suppose to do, but I don't like taking the clutch apart so I installed a spacer behind the clutch bolt that moved the clutch 30 thousands closer to the belt,It was just enough to make a smoother engagement.

Is this set-up in your opinion a lot better then stock, and can you tell me why?--I know this is a lot to ask, I just what the best performance I can get for a otherwise stock 93 XLT.--THANKS--Mike
 

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"Best performance" is relative to what you want out of the sled. For top end the stock gearing, soft red secondary spring and 34 helix is best- I have my XLT set up for better "out of the corner" accel and backshift with lower gearing, progressive helix and stiffer spring. I think the blue primary spring is a good idea regardless. Just my opinion.
 

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primary is gold, secondary is red. If its different then you have either after market springs or the wrong combo. Wont go too far that way. Ive had these clutches apart for many many sleds. Check the parts unlimited specs online that have a web site to tell the combinations that work for our sled. I just went back to the original springs. This is what the sled is intended for and it works best for all applications. Speed, touring, and putting around in high snow. Try this guy..hes a clutch pro. 1-585-948-5656.
 

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pinecarpenter said:
Someone changed the gold spring to a blue one. It was recommended by the dealer to go wider with the belt. Im not sure if it was done right BC it chews up belts. If you change one spring, you need to change the secondary too. Cant just change one. Im suprised all these "professionals" on this site havent mentioned this in all their jumble powerband talk.
It chews up belts and your not sure if it was done right? LOL

If you change one spring, you need to change the secondary too? With every post you make you show how little you know. You have done nothing but spew BS misinformation. That is exactly how so much misinformation gets propagated on the internet.

In 97, the XLT RMK came stock with a blue primary spring. The 97 XLT SKS came with a gold primary spring. Guess what, they BOTH came with the stock red secondary spring and 34 helix.

So much for your claim that you have to change the secondary spring when you change the primary spring.

There sure is a lot of BS misinformation posted on this site.

pinecarpenter said:
primary is gold, secondary is red. If its different then you have either after market springs or the wrong combo. Wont go too far that way. Ive had these clutches apart for many many sleds. Check the parts unlimited specs online that have a web site to tell the combinations that work for our sled. I just went back to the original springs. This is what the sled is intended for and it works best for all applications. Speed, touring, and putting around in high snow. Try this guy..hes a clutch pro. 1-585-948-5656.
You have no idea what you're talking about. There is NOTHING that works best for ALL applications. Different setups for different applications.
 

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The only BS I see is the one having to do with your crying. How many sleds have you owned. How many manuals have you read? What are you doing right now? sitting in front of the computer??? Ive got thousands of miles ridden since you were in diapers. Im at a dealership right now..thats what I do. All applications means best all around set up.

The only way BS put up on the internet is when people with 288 posts in the last month type all day instead of ride and learn. junior
 

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So that's what you do? Sit at the dealership and use the computer? What are you doing right now? Sitting in front of the computer? You really are an idiot. I can't believe you actually think you have to change both springs. Have you ever even put a clutch kit on a sled before?

EDIT: BTW you don't learn things by reading a manual, you might look at a manual as a guide when you are stuck and unsure of where to put something. But you learn how to do things but taking it apart and putting it back together.
 
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