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Brake Caliper Removal

2053 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Sno-X-treme
I need to fix my brake caliper on a 90 650 indy.

Removed the chaincase cover, sprockets all the bolts holding the chaincase however it wont come off.

Do I have to remove the shafts?

Help, there is 6" of fresh snow and I cant enjoy it.
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Got the caliper unbolted? Is the chaincase moving at all? Loosen the track up as loose at it'll go to get the tension off the driveshapft. Then it should wiggle out of the bearings. You'll have a lot more fun getting it back on. Well, maybe not.

Hope this helps

"Faster than a speeding ticket....and then some"
ok, hopefully you have the caliper loose, if not, remove those bolts on top the chaincase. dont worry about the caliper thru bolts, and no you dont have to take your track loose, yes it may help, but i never have. also, there should be 3 bolts holding the back section of the chaincase to your sled, you will need to remove those, or at least the nuts. now, take the long bolt from your bottom gear, thread it back into your driveshaft some, you can use this to wiggle the shaft as you wiggle the rear section of the chaincase. once you've got it out of the way, your all set.
Thanks for the tips, I will try it and let you know if I have any other problems.
Thanks to the Forum I saved some $$'s.

Got the Chaincase off and again I thank you.

PS Had to loosen the track.
While you got her off, spend a couple extra $$ and replace both bearings and the chaincase seal. Much easier to replace now rather than later.
what was keeping it from coming off

"Faster than a speeding ticket....and then some"
The bottom shaft was extremely snug in the chaincase. Top came off OK

Should I get polaris bearings or is there a cheaper aftermartket alternative?

Is there anything I should watch for when I reasemble?
I'd stick with OEM Polaris parts. Be sure to replace the seals that are mounted to the chaincase from the back. ( i learned that the hard way! )I'd also look for excessive wear on the chain and sprockets. Look at each and every link throughout the chain for any cracked or broken links. This could lead to failure and if the chain does break, you have a chance that it will jam up and smash a hole right through the case! Preventative maintenance can save lots of $$$$.
Almost all bearings and seals are'nt OEM parts until the sled manufacturers add their part no. to them.Look for the no. on the bearing and the seal, call your local bearing dist. and save alot of "grip" I paid $7.00 for a drive shaft bearing that the Cat dealer wanted $24.00 for.

Mean Green Racing
Elyria, Ohio
I agree with spaceman. I use Berry Bearings (or Motion Industries) for bearings. They should be around $8.00 each. If memory serves me right, the 2 bearings in the chaincase, and the one behind the driven clutch are all the same. The real expensive bearing is on the driveshaft behind the speedo input. That one has a collar on it, and I think it was around $27.00. But again it is preventative maintenance. My buddy threw both bearings in the chaincase on his Storm, which he had just bought from somebody that 'claimed' to keep up the maintenance. The gears had excessive play, which he discovered while running hard one day, they moved and broke the chain. Needless to say, it destroyed the chain, both gears, and chaincase. He also had severe damage on the driveshaft and jackshaft from running with bad bearings. About $450.00 later he is back running again.
Do I need any special tools to take the bearings out? Or do I just remove the retaining clip and the bearing comes out?
No special tools. Remove the clips in the chaincase. Flip the case over and find a large socket about 2" across. Tap the bearings out. For putting them in, and possibly taking them out, I'll use a torch and heat up the aluminum around the bearing. Then gently tap it in evenly with the socket!!!! Evenly being the key word. Be real careful about not applying a lot of force.

"Faster than a speeding ticket....and then some"

Edited by - Sno-X-treme on December 16 2001 1:50:15 PM
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