Brake cooling

This is just an opinion... disc brakes on motorcycles and cars work in the wet, so I dont see why snowmobiles wouldn't. My concern would be that you would be increasing the possibility of getting water around the carbs . As you know, some wet could be sucked into the carbs which is risky at best, but also the moisture can get around the cables and freeze during a stop in the action. Ive had problems in the past with older sleds after drift hopping where snow got in, melted and then froze over night . Some how the water got into the choke plunger area and caused them to stick open . took me awhile to figure that one out too. I dont think I would leave it on.

hmm, interestin idea, my liquid sled doesnt have the thingy on top the brake calipr where coolant from the exchanger runs over it, my xcr parts sled does however, maybe i put it on the xlt

my sled is a 83 and has the liquid cooled brakes man do they work great

My wife said its me or my sleds... Im sure gonna miss her

I've seen alot of brakes with ducts . Look at pre 97 ZR's or new Vipers. The cooler the better,Polaris has known this for years with thier L/C brakes

Spaceman
Mean Green Racing
Elyria, Ohio

The only thing i would be worried about with your air tube would be getting snow on your rotor. A nice hot rotor doesnt take to freezing cold temps. It will warp your rotor and give you pulsations in your lever.

If you want to step up to a better braking system, you could either look at the new Polaris/Hayes braking system, or one of those wierd looking wave rotors, that increase cooling.

I have the Hayes/Polaris brakes on my 2000 Indy, and i can consistantly stop from 60 mph without any fade at all. This is without the liquid cooling lines running to the brake.

Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.