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Could someone please enlighten me on what the difference between the Bushed and non bushed clutch weights for the polaris clutches, btw, I have a 98 XC 700, so what type should I run? Does anyone out there have the same sled, I've tried 2 different clutch weights and springs, but really haven't gotten it down, its like everytime, I either go to far, or not far enough, Is it all trial and practice till I get it right?
 

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AS for bushed or non-bushed, the bished weights are just that. There is a bushing in the weight where the pin rides and the non-bushed are just drilled for the pin. Personally, I use non-bushed for tuning, (they are chhep so I can go and buy 3 sets to 1 set of bushed weights) and once I get my set-up where I am happy, I go and get bushed weights. They last longer.
 

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The aftermarket clutch places have done all the r&d when developing their kits. IMO Dont waste time trying to better what they found. If you love to experiment as I do the heel clickers and similar work very well and are fast and easy to adjust.
 

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Hotrod has a good point. If you are unsure what you want then you are way better off going and buying a kit. As for heel-clickers, the jury is still out for me. I have set up 2 sleds so far with mixed results. Some guys swear by them though.
 

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If you dont already know about heel clickers I will tell you what they claim and what I found to be true (for once) The hardest part about clutching is to get hard excelleration with out losing rpm therefor HP on the top end. If you have power you can add wieght to the stock setup but at the top end the extra wieght tries to continue closing the sheaves too fast thus bogging down the engine. The clickers allow you to add as much wieght at the beginning as your sled can handle and as the wieghts rotate towards top end they get "lighter" back to stock Really works well on my XCR 800. I have over 75 grams at bottom that finishes off at 60 grams at the top end. Rpm stays constant as it should at 8400 rpm.
 
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