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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there.
I'm thinking of buying an older sled, late '70s early '80s vintage, but I'm worried about getting parts. I've got the tools and hopefully the understanding to do some fairly major repairs, but if I can't get parts I'm sunk!
Some of the sleds I'm considering.
Arctic Cat: Panther, Jag, Eltigre, Pantera
Ski-Doo: Olympiqe, TNT, Blizzard
Polaris: Colt, Indy.

Help before I make a costly mistake!
 

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I have bee working with a guy that has a sweet Indy 650. He is in the process of freshining up the top end. He only wants $1000 for it. The 650's are a great sled, lots of power and room for modifications. There is always tons of parts available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm in north central MA. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of sleds available locally. The thing is I grew up in Maine which is where I'd do most of my riding.
I've been looking at a couple sleds at a dealer in Vermont. For $1000 they have a Ski Doo Formula Plus. I just dunno, I figure I can probably get more for my money from a private sale, but the dealer is likely to have gone over the sled first so it might be a better machine.
 

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I use to be into vintage sleds. FIRST THING BEFORE YOU BUY IT................COMPRESSION TEST.................that will deffinately tell you how much the sled is worth. If the sled needs a new crank...DONT BUY IT....cranks on sleds arent like cars because the rod doesnt dissasemble....remember that.....cranks are pressure fitted together and unless you have a 3 tons press, you will be spending some big bucks. Right now i have a 78 Scorpion Sting 440 pimped out. Its the fastest sled i have ever ridden from that time period. I know a lot about older sleds, so email me if you need more help.

Need some darn snow people.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Darn tootin we need snow, its raining here now.. Might change over later on.

Anyhow. Is a compression test the same on a sled as on a car? eg. Pull a plug, put in the tester, crank over a couple times? Whats a good reading, 100?
 

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I might suggest when you do the compression check pull ALL the plugs first. It not only makes it easier to pull but you won't get a false reading if the head gasket is shot. Sometimes like I've seen on an outboard motor, the piston and rings are fine but the HD gasket is blown so when you run a comp test with the other plug in the 2 cylinders will equalize and you'll think all is perfect. TOO perfect actually. Not sure for your application but equal and over 110 is good to me. Shouldn't be more than 20PSI apart anyway.

I'm just adding to this cuz now that I think of it, newer sled heads are independant domes rather than a solid 2 or 3 piston cast so, to all that have those. Nevermind.

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I think.... therefore I sled
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Two '94 Indy XLT SKS

Edited by - bman on November 20 2001 2:42:31 PM
 
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