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Discussion Starter #1
i have the style of driveshaft bearing with 2 set screws..i had to drill them out because they were seized right in place, and i broke 3 craftsman allen wrenches trying to get them loose.. but, the bearing will not move on the shaft.. i have applied heat (lots of it with an acetylene torch), tried beating it with a hammer, put the penetrating oil to it, still nothing.. is this bearing PRESSED on the shaft or should it slide right off? do i need to use a bearing puller?
 

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It should slide right off. If I were you I'd says it's time to invest in a bearing puller. It sucks I know.[V]
 

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The bearing has a locking collar. Once you get the set screws out, you have to twist the collar toward the rear of the machine to unlock it. Then the bearing should come off. If not, you need more heat and a bigger hammer.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
it don't twist at all.. i think it's rusted solid.. should i just cut it out and replace the whole drive shaft?
 

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Cutting is a good option too. If you are affraid your going to cut the driveshaft, just hit the race with a hammer, the races are very hard but brittle and should break pretty easily.
 

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Use the torch to cut towards the end: remove the outer race, ball cages and try to touch the inside race. Very high-carbon steel, it'll cut easy as butter. Be CAREFUL! Now heat and put your bearing puller on it.

Driveshafts cost over $200.00, I know 'cause I had to buy one yesterday.
 

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get a air chisel ,use it like a punch i have gotten bearings of of 4 inch shafts thats was all rusty doing this
 

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had to do this a few times. Use a grinder with a cutting disc, take your time and it will be ok. Smashing the bearing itself works too, you'll jut be stuck with the inner race, but again, using a grinder carefully can take care of that.
 

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Cut all of the outer race off and ball bearings off. Let it cool over night and go back the next day and lightly heat the race ONLY. This should thermally expand the race larger than the shaft and then pull it off. Pay close attention and try not to heat the shaft at all.
 

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I have found the best way to get those frozen in place bearings off is to use a die grinder with a cut off wheel. It cuts through them like butter without creating shaft warping heat.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well i havent got the bearing off the shaft itself yet, but i ended up cutting off the triangle shaped piece that mounts to the sled with my angle grinder that way i can have it out of the sled where i can work on it at a better angle... my local parts dealer has those pieces in stock for less than $10 so i figured it would be worth it.. i got all the bearings and stuff off it with a hammer, and now im just left with the thick steel inner piece. i am gonna try a puller later tonite and maybe some more heat... thanks for the tips! i will try them all if i have to!
 

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Don't heat it any more than about 300*F. Test by spitting on it, the spittle should fizzle. That's as far as you go. Have your bearing puller already on it and ready, don't want the heat to transfer to the shaft. If it doesn't work, grinder time. I have done this a few times with a Dremel and cutting wheel, won't take long.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
got it..thanks for the tips guys..with it out, we tried to turn the locking collar but it was froze, so we took a punch and drove it down off the bearing, then used a bearing puller and with some force it finally gave.. my only question is, what is that silver little cap on the end of the shaft for with the little hole in the center? reason i ask, is because we boogered it up pretty good..
 

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That was were you used to be able to insert the speedometer key. Take a triangular jewelers file and square off the edges, it'll be fine.
 

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I just pop it out with a small screw driver and replace it. There only like $.50 down at a dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
matt, on the end of the drive shaft where the speedometer goes is a hole with a little gray aluminum cap about the size around of a pencil with a small hole in the middle of it.. i f*d it up with the bearing puller..
 

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I just had the same problem as your with the driveshaft on my 650. We couldnt even get the lock collar to move so what we did was just press both of them off with a press.
 
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