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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on trying to get my 96 600 xcr sp to breathe a little more fire, I was reading a long winded article and one of the things the guy wrote was swapping out my CDI for a one out of a 97\98 model. Do any of you know if the CDI is a plug and play or will there be some wiring mods needed, and which CDI am I looking for? I looked at parts numbers and the 97/98 have different numbers.

I am also reworking the carbs to what he spec'd, what would you advise for the slide? I live in MN. and most riding wll be on trails.
340 360 360
pilot #45 with the bypass drilled
slides of 2.5 or 3.0
 

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Should be plug and play.
Looks like you got your specs from the FAQ section of "The history of the XCR" website: http://webspace.webring.com/people/ps/schmidt92/polaris_faq.html

I ran a ’96, ’97 SE, and ’98 model XCR-600 and helped tune dozens of others. The following specs [based on Midwest riding under 2000’ with temps above 0 F] work well for the average trail rider, can be purchased at any Polaris dealer and make this sled an almost enjoyable snowmobile. It won’t be perfect, but at least Indy 500s won’t leave you down a trail!

Main jet: 340P-360C-360M
Pilot jet: #45 with the air bypass drilled out on ’96 models*
Slide: 2.5 or 3.0
Timing: Full retard or run the 1997/1998 cdi module
Airbox: can be gutted in warmer weather
Drive clutch: Polaris almond/gold or Goodwin’s black spring [keep engagement at least 4800 or more] 10-58 weights lightened to ~57g and heeled. This works well for riders around 180 lbs and should be changed accordingly to get rpm to 8300.
Driven clutch: Polaris silver secondary with a R-3 helix in the #2 hole.
Rear suspension: Move RRSS block to back hole [’96 models will need to be drilled out] and adjust limiters to at least ½” thread showing. 1996 models came with the lightest torsion springs and most people will need to upgrade to heavier springs.
Exhaust: Dynoport silencer
Gearing: -1 on top gear
Intake: Carbon Tech reeds with Fett Brothers reed spacers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That would be the one, I'm also the guy that lives in Anoka and e-mailed you about the parts.
My biggest problem I am having is the brother has a 600ZRT same year, we have always been damn near equal and he is doing some mods to his right now. I can't be looking at his tail lights all winter.
Not sure why these sleds have gotten such a bad wrap, mine has always performed as I expected and more importantly never failed me.
 

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anoka! heck this winter we can do some tunning.

his clutching my have worked for him but its no good for an aggressive setup.
you are better off running 56 gram weights and a large helix.

gearing needs alot more than -1 on the top gear, its more like minus 1-2 on the top gear and go up 3-4 on the bottom gear.

if you do get them cdis then you can cut a little on the heads to help add some compression. that will clean up the bottom end a lot and compliment the extra timing from the later cdi.

the suspension rear blocks are a personal thing and also depend on your wieght. i am 260lbs and there is no need to go to heavier springs unless for pure jumping and huge mogul bashing. the limiter strap setting depends on conditions and rider as well.

do not spend money on a dyno port silencer, you will lose top end speed with an aftermarket can vs the stock one dont believe me ask the guys that have done it.

you have to keep rpms at 8300 or higher for safety of the engine.

i ran a 600 xcr with v force reeds, a tiny bit of port clean up not even a port job, some homemade pipes, xcr 800 ignition. that baby screamed. with a small guy driving it could hold its own against any 800 twin that i ran it against.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not really looking for more top speed, I just want to get to it quicker. I'm pretty laid back when it comes to riding but am a guy that sometimes needs the braging rights, since I have a cracked head and one is off how much would you recomend milling off them, ~.010 and will it still run ok on pump fuel?

Guess I should ask do you know of anybody that will do the milling at a reasonable price??
 

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if i had my mill now i would do it for a reasonable price.

if you get to about .065" squish that is plenty safe for the most part.
get the gear ratio in the 1.8 -1.9 area. that will give you a very good increase in snap and pretty much no loss in top end speed.

your close enough, you get it running nice and then this fall once there is good snow on the lakes or fields to test in we can do some tunning.

i ran 22-41 gearing and it went good. anything close to that, 22-40 will work to.
 
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