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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi guys got a question,

dropped out my chain case oil today to get ready for winter on account of it has never been done ('89 jag 340) half seemed clean and the last half was black. the question i have is what is the best oil to put back into it. I am thinking synthetic would be good. If i go synthetic does it matter seeing as it has only had regular oil? what is the best weight and company i should use.

basically looking for the best oil for me thanks, Baja
 

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I was told that on the polaris models 92 and older that synthetic will not work because the oil is thinner and will seap out the bearing side of the drive shaft. The bearings are a sealed bearing on the 93 and newer sleds. Im sure the cats are simular to this. I run in my 80,87, and 86 indys the outboard lower unit oil and have no probs. But this is just a guess on your jag. Get another opinion. TXC
 

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It's most important just that it is changed regularly. Synthetic is best, but use the weight and spec AC calls for, adjust that chain.

TXC, The syn won't work line is funny, the guy who told that story must have missed that he had already worn out the bearings before he got around to changing his oil !
 

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if the the original oil is 14 yrs olds and and everything o ke dokey,,replace that oil with factory oil,good for another 14 yrs,
 

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For most snowmobile chaincase applications any SAE 80 or 90 weight oil will be fine. What's important is getting any metal fragments and moisture out of that case. Change it every year. A bottle is only a couple of $$ and cheap insurance. Use synthetic if you want, i've never heard of any snowmobile that you can't use it on. I use it mine too.
 

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This guy is the owner of the polaris dealership in my town. I thought whats the big deal too. If he's full of it then why would'nt he try and sell me the more expensive synthetic that I was there for? He is right though, the bearings have changed since 92 they are sealed. Mine are not. I changed all four in my 87 indy last year and I can see how a thinner oil can get by them. Hey I dont know and I guess if the lower unit in boat motors can handle all the rpms, then that oil should work just as well in the sleds.
 

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I run synthetic in my 1990 500 and have for the last 3 years. Everything is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
We haven't taken the cover off of the chain case so if we took it off we would be able to adjust the tension and clean it better. but how do you adjust the tension and how tight should it be?
 

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lol, all this talk about chain case oil...i change it once right after its new well about 500 miles after new to remove any metal particles. And unless i need to get back in there for something...i.e. changing gears i dont mess with chaincase oil. We just pulled the original oil out of my dads 1980 John Deere Sportfire to change the track and everything inside looks just as good as the day it was new. I feel that as much as the oil gets used, there is no reason to change it. I mean afterall it is pretty much there for a corrosion inhibiter. Yes it does help with the friction too, but there isnt much friction in there to begin with, except on the teflon tensioner block if so equipped (many chaincases use roller tensioners). Our combine drive chains are exposed to the wether and are not in a oil bath situation. Yet they carry more load than any snowmobile will ever see and they dont wear out. So as far as chaincase oils go, i'd skip the cost of synthetic and just use the regular weight oil recommended. Just thought i'd throw that out there. Just my opinion though. Everyone is entitled to their opinion so read over what everyone has to say and base your decesion on all the opinions you see.
 
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If I remember right. I was told to use Hypoid gear oil. It does not foam up and expand when getting hot and subjected to lots of moving parts. I would think lower unit oil would be just the stuff.

D
 

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I would have to agree with TriumphoverU. I replace the jackshaft driveshaft, all 4 bearings, track, (chaincase and cover from a 92 indy 500) that I put in my 1980 TXC(bolted right up) and there was nothing wrong with the oil. There was actually hardly any oil left in there. Just enough to wet the chain and still everything looked fine. Must not be that big of deal for the average driver.
 

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Maybe a snowmobile chain is immersed in oil because of the RPM? I don't know. I would think that on certain equipment the chain drives are not immersed because of lower RPM. Just a guess. Anyway, the chain tension is equally as important as the oil. I adjust mine every year, the process goes like this: loosen the jam nut, tighten idler screw "finger" tight, then back off 1/2 turn and tighten jam nut. As far as the type of oil, I would stay with what was in there originally and maintain the proper level. JMHO
 

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I'm with TU on this one...it would be difficult to wear out any drive mechanism that is constantly bathed in oil. I have heard some folks claim that when oil breaks down it can become acidic, which in turn damages seals.
 

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I have changed it in both of my sleds only once so that I could see what it looked like. My experience with lower units on boats has been that if it's milky replace it. I figure with the boat it's mandatory. Water in the oil sitting all winter in the yard may not be the best thing for a outboard. With the sled it's a every other year thing or less if not many miles get put on it. I use the regular Poo oil. I would go synthetic if I thought I could get some improvement in mileage or performance, but I don't think that's true. I agree with Triumphou, it's a lubricant for the chain really. Some people ride 10,000 miles in one year and never replace it without any problems. How many miles do most of us get in? 1,000 maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
yup i am just changing it because it has never been done. i barely ride my sled. i only went trail riding once last year. other than that, i just go bushwacking at my friends farm so it gets very little miles on it. just thought it needed to be done.
 
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