[1997 XLT SP]

Anyone know how to get the bolts off the support point at the body where the trailing arm joins? Theres a rubber bushing on mine thats worn pretty bad and I want to replace it. The bolt wont budge. Is it possible its "Loctite"'d.

Thanks in advance.

 

[xcr440]

Is it the rear point? or the front radius arms?

 

[1997 XLT SP]

Its the rearward point, right where the trailing arm ends. Theres a maybe 5/8" tube welded transverse right at the point where the footboards end and the hood starts. On the side with the pull handle for the starter (and the tool kit), its directly under that point.

Sorry for the poor description.

 

[xcr440]

It may be toctited. Use a 3/4" ratchet to get it loose. Just be careful. I have seen some snap off. Try to spray some jb 80 or penetrating oil. You can get a good look at it through the floor board.

 

[1997 XLT SP]

Ya, thats what I thought too. I cant seem to get anything near it to melt the loctite. Would an impact wrench help?

 

[1997 XLT SP]

As for looking through the floorboard, I cant see the bolt or the head, it seems to be a bling bolt with everything inside the steel tube.

 

[xcr440]

It may. Biggest problem is that it is corroded. That spot is known to snow/ice build up. Has no drain.

 

[TheKuskokid]

You can put the heat on the head of the bolt. Just use your BernZomatic and play the flame on the bolt head. Unfortunately you may end up having to touch-up the paint on the trailing arm.

Those little buggers are fun yes? I broke the bolt on my Ultra SPX and had to drill it out. I would rather burn the paint and melt some plastic before having to do that again. Heat that bolt head until the bushing starts to catch fire and stink and smoke. Then give it a few minutes for the heat to migrate down the bolt. Be prepared though. At best you do touch-up, at worst you'll wring off the tube and have to replace some parts of the footrest. Just get your breaker on it and give a good old fashioned heave-ho.

 

[xcr440]

^^^^ahhh yes the memories of removing a broken bolt in a lovely location.

 

[TRIPLEB]

Do a search on this subject- there have been several members on here that have had this problem. That bolt had thread-locker from the factory and you need to apply heat to the shaft before attempting to break it loose or you will very likely snap it off. I put a torch to the shaft the bolt goes into from inside the bellypan- just put something non-flammable on the back side of the shaft to prevent melting the plastic. I used muffler packing material. That bolt should turn out real easy after some heat![]

 

[Zrxpilot]

If anybody knows where this link is, id like to see it. I looked for over an hour a couple days ago. Its not easy to find.

TripleB is right. That bolt is rust welded in there solid. Same thing happens to the lower bolts on your front shocks. Been there did that and it sucked. I highly doubt this is going to end good without some sort of preventative measure. At the very least soak the bolt in penetrating oil for a few days. Good luck.

 

[Jsledder]

Along with the heat, give it a couple good whacks to break the corrosion free. Anti-seize works good when putting them back in, just keep an eye on it so it doesn't come loose, i'd rather put a wrench on it and snug them up while the sled is warming up each ride than mess with that again.

I broke one off once trying to get it out, ended up welding a nut on the end of the busted off part and that took it out.

If you can somehow get to the inside of the tube that the bolts screws into you could squirt some "Sea foam" into there and let it sit for a while, that's some of the best stuff I've used.

 

[1997 XLT SP]

Just an FYI to close this off....

Got them both off with an electric impact gun. YEEHA!
The hard part was removing the old bushings! They were in theree WORSE than the bolts!

Job done!
Thanks all