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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a stock 2004 Mountain Cat 800, with a 151" track with the exception I have a can I use every now and then. It has been a great sled to me, and cannot complain.

But a buddy of mine has the exact same sled except witha 159, and It seems to be a lot more "pepy"

I do not want to put much money into the sled, but I would like to know if there are any adjustments, or maintenance or anything like that that I can do to give me a little more power and yank, epeccially on low end

any opinions/ thoughts are appreciated!

thanks!
 

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Clutching, gearing like always.

I reccomend dropping the gearing to a 2.05 ratio, or 2.1. That will give you some crazy low end power, and a top end of 85 MPH
 

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differnt gearing, change clutch weights and springs
 

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i already got chrome yay [LOL]
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
hahahahahahaha crome and sticker ehhh!? haha I can do that [;)] haha. I wax er often too

But yeahh, as far as gearing, cant I change that some without getting a new clutch itself? my freinds said something about it, but as you can see I'm not too edumacated on the performance side of sleds...........
 

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You can change gearing without doing clutch work, and you can do clutch work relativly cheap without replacing the clutch. Someone here could give you a good setup for your sled and you could buy the corresponding spring/weights/helix etc.
 

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also stickers advertising upgrades you dont really have seem to help to[LOL]
 

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clutching and gearing...... not sure on cats but plenty of cat guys on here will tell ya.
 

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Don't forget engines are designed by professional engineers and are made to operate within
certain parameters. Don't make your engine perform in a way that will send it to an early grave.
I learned this the hard way. Keep it simple and enjoy the ride. Modest clutching, good plugs, fuel, and carb jetting.
 

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Gearing changes are done on the opposite side of the sled from the clutches. There are two sprockets in the chaincase that you change for different gearing. You can hit ebay and get new gears (sprockets) for $20 or $30 apiece. If you don't do ebay, your local snowmobile salvage place should have them. Maybe a couple bucks more than ebay prices, but you can get them right away. I think your buddy's 159" may have had lower gearing from the factory for the longer track. Maybe that is why it is peppier? If you add teeth to the big sprocket (bottom), and subtract teeth from the smaller top sprocket, that will gear you lower. If that Cat has the Diamond Drive in it, I'm a retard and don't listen to me. I have no idea how you change the gearing with the Diamond Drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
MicahMan said:
clutching and gearing...... not sure on cats but plenty of cat guys on here will tell ya.
Yeahh I think I am going to see about getting different clutch wieghts and springs

bluevoyageur said:
Don't forget engines are designed by professional engineers and are made to operate within
certain parameters. Don't make your engine perform in a way that will send it to an early grave.
I learned this the hard way. Keep it simple and enjoy the ride. Modest clutching, good plugs, fuel, and carb jetting.
Yeah I dont want so much power as to blow my sled but I would like to get the most I can out of my sled without hurthing it. I got EFI so idk much about fooling with that. And yeah, maybe if i ran super instead of regular it may help some.

Rubi said:
Gearing changes are done on the opposite side of the sled from the clutches. There are two sprockets in the chaincase that you change for different gearing. You can hit ebay and get new gears (sprockets) for $20 or $30 apiece. If you don't do ebay, your local snowmobile salvage place should have them. Maybe a couple bucks more than ebay prices, but you can get them right away. I think your buddy's 159" may have had lower gearing from the factory for the longer track. Maybe that is why it is peppier? If you add teeth to the big sprocket (bottom), and subtract teeth from the smaller top sprocket, that will gear you lower. If that Cat has the Diamond Drive in it, I'm a retard and don't listen to me. I have no idea how you change the gearing with the Diamond Drive.

hahahahaha The thing is is I dont even know what Diamond Drive is. Yeah your probably right about the a159 being geared lower. maybe I should gear it down a tooth and put clutch wieghts and springs in it also. I am certianl not in the market for a new clutch at this moment so.
 

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Start with the gearing, it's a lot easier than the clutching..

Not knowing what you're doing with a clutch can cause serious bodily injury. I love scaring the crap out of people popping the cover off!!

tap-tap-tap --- [14pt]SPROING!!!!!!![/14pt]
 

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you could clean the clutches? make sure you chain is adjusted at the right tension. new belt can help if yours is run down a bit. ive even heard new slides make a difference i guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ugly_old_Poo_kid said:
Start with the gearing, it's a lot easier than the clutching..

Not knowing what you're doing with a clutch can cause serious bodily injury. I love scaring the crap out of people popping the cover off!!

tap-tap-tap --- [14pt]SPROING!!!!!!![/14pt]
Hahaha I know exactly what you mean! haha but yeahh I got some good friends that know how to do that stuff but they arent cat people so. But when/if i got to do it, i will have them there for sure

MuscleD said:
you could clean the clutches? make sure you chain is adjusted at the right tension. new belt can help if yours is run down a bit. ive even heard new slides make a difference i guess.
Yeahh I have pretty new sliders and belts. I will check that chain for sure though. Yeah the clutch could probably definitely use that. I got to take it all apart to do it correctly though right? If so should i just trow in new weights and springs?
 

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Do one change at a time. Drop 1 or 2 teeth on the upper gear. Then ride it. Then I would go with a slightly heavier spring in the clutch to raise engagement RPM. Dont raise it too high or it wont be any good except for drag racing. Not sure on the clutch arm weights-
 

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TuckerTerra said:
Ugly_old_Poo_kid said:
Start with the gearing, it's a lot easier than the clutching..

Not knowing what you're doing with a clutch can cause serious bodily injury. I love scaring the crap out of people popping the cover off!!

tap-tap-tap --- [14pt]SPROING!!!!!!![/14pt]
Hahaha I know exactly what you mean! haha but yeahh I got some good friends that know how to do that stuff but they arent cat people so. But when/if i got to do it, i will have them there for sure

MuscleD said:
you could clean the clutches? make sure you chain is adjusted at the right tension. new belt can help if yours is run down a bit. ive even heard new slides make a difference i guess.
Yeahh I have pretty new sliders and belts. I will check that chain for sure though. Yeah the clutch could probably definitely use that. I got to take it all apart to do it correctly though right? If so should i just trow in new weights and springs?
The best result is taking apart and cleaning. I just spray jb 80 in it. Just don't spray it where the belt sits in there. But if you are capable of taking it out and apart that's the best way. Then you can get new springs and weights if you need to.
 

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No one has said it yet, but the age of the sled, I bet any money that both primary and secondary springs are weak, and have taken a set to them. Just by taking the clutches apart, cleaning (with warm soap and water and scrub brush) and replacing with new springs you will gain alot of HP to the track. Has nothing to do with engine work, just some maintenance. Also when you have the clutches apart you can see if the bushings are still good. If the sheeves have play on the shafts they ride on, time to throw the clutch out. It will bind and possibly break causing more damage then its worth. Also check the buttons that everything slides on in the clutches.

All this for less then 100 bucks. Just a nights work with a buddy to help.

Also for 100 to 150 buck find a used set of heavy hitter weights or Magna force, or 60 gram STM weights and put them in. Just match the weight to the stock ones. That changes the shift curve of the clutch and give better up shift. More "pep"
 

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gearing multiplies torque so that can be an easy way to gain perfomance.

compression and tuning around it can add serious power. you can easily add 3-5% hp to a sled and still be pump gas safe. for the most part.
 
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