[Mike900]

ON A 93 XLT WHAT DO YOU LOOK FOR ON THE CRANKSHAFT TO DETERMINE HOW GOOD IT IS?--THANKS

 

[bigwedgies]

all you can really visually check for is bearing movement. they should spin freely and not make noise. connecting rods should not have any "up and down" movement.

 

[Dman]

Try a dial indicator on the end of the PTO side and see what the runout is. Should be less than .004 I think.
D

 

[madcow]

you have to check run out on the ends of the crank and center, then check all bearings, check rods for detonation damage and then check the crank for phase.

 

[Mike900]

you have to check run out on the ends of the crank and center, then check all bearings, check rods for detonation damage and then check the crank for phase.

How do you check for phase? I will be installing pipes on the sled, I'am changing the two bearings on the pto side and the one on the mag end. The old bearings still look ok,but since I can get at these I thought I would change to new ones. I also drilled out the oil hole on the pto end to match the others. Any other items that I can due to make the crank hold up longer? Should I advance the oil pump some? I will be using Polaris regular blue oil. The pipes are LRM's. Any help you can give me would be appreciated.--Thanks--Mike

 

[Ugly_old_Poo_kid]

The XLT's are indexed at every 120 degrees. If they are out of phase, spark timing will be off compared to the compression stroke.

You need to use a dial indicator and indexing gauge, then find TDC on #1 (recoil) then verify that the other 2 are at 120 degree increments.

I dunno the exact spec allowed, but I don't think you'd want them to be out more than 1 or 2 degrees.

 

[madcow]

i use a degree wheel, run one up to top end with the dial indicator, then zero the degree wheel, then rotate to the next one top dead center, check the wheel, it should be 120 degrees.

if i was to do an xlt for pipes and had the crank out i would simply send it out for an inspection, if all is good i would have it welded and trued.

some crank guys dont like simply pressing off the old bearings and pressing on new ones. in a micro view you are smearing steel and can make a slight missalignment in the bearing to case and crank. when i do bearings on anything i put the new bearings in a deep fat fryer of 350 degree engine oil for atleast 10 minutes. with a room temp crank and 350 degree bearings they should simply drop on with very little effort.