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Discussion Starter #1
In case anyone wants to see the difference, be it you've never seen before, or you want to see how bad I let mine get before cleaning, here's a picture. I cleaned one, left the other dirty.





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Hey! you got the diaphrams off eh? When I first got the XCR, I attempted to remove the nut holding them on and broke the shaft on one of the valves. Cleaned the others with the diaphrams on and repaired the broken one. then just assumed they weren't supposed to come off. Hmmmmm.
 

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I actually have 2 sets of these valves. The ones in the picture, and the ones that are in my machine right now.

They actually screw out fairly easily on my machine.

Those diaphragms did break last year though, and the valves didn't open. That sucked. But now it's all good.

BTW, I do not run VES oil in my sled, I don't even run fully synthetic oil. The stuff I use is made by Torco and it's cheaper than the fully synthetic stuff. I can stand cleaning my valves every 400 or 500 miles. No way I'm paying the price they want for that VES stuff.



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Im with you 100% on the oil thing I had to use some other than polaris VES oil once because it wasnt available were I ran out . The stuff they had at the esso gas station is a synthetic blend and it was only $ 4.00 taxes included. After it seemed to work fine , I bought a case 12 for $40.00 tax included. 600 miles on this year (only) and when I pulled a valve everythings good.


P.S we pay 15% tax here in Ontario so thats why we kinda get in the habit of saying " tax included " cause it can make a big difference.
 

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That valve on the left looks clean compared the valves on my 800 Cat after 1100 miles using Cats APV oil from last year. I'm going with full synthetic this year, if I get to ride.....

2001 ZL800
Delta IIs
Power Breather
MBRP Silencer
Coupling Kit
Goodwin Clutch Kit

Creek beds don't make good brakes!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
That one on the left is after about 300 miles. Pretty dirty.



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I only run the fully synthetic in mine because be cause it smokes less. I had 1100 miles on mine when I cleaned them for the first time and they were not even close to being as bad as your P-Man. I don't mind paying $24/gallon if it makes cleaning them easier. Besides I think the sythetic oil is better for the engine and the plugs last alot longer without fouling.
 

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agreed jb. I run only synthetic in my race bike. Results are very, very good. Much better protection during high heat running.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'd rather pay less and clean more frequently.

Takes like 10 minutes to clean the valves. Whoop tee doo.



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on our dirtbike power valves we use oven cleaner to clean them it works fast and easy, just a tip, dont get that stuff on your hands though it burns!

if its not a CAT, then it must be a dog!
 

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ok i guess ill chime in on the great oil debate, so here goes, synthetics are more expensive than dino are they worth it, yes and no, yes because in the cylinder they are way more protective than dino and have a better film strenth, "better for ring wear" more miles between rebuilds, but they do have a nasty habit of carbon buildup on "cold exaust" like variable exaust valves ect. whearas dino wont do that as much as it is just a oily film we call spooge, now heres the tricky part they make oil thats a synthetic blend and thats what i choose to run i find it to give the best of both worlds, ive run this in my dirtbikes for years with great results and when i bought a snowmobile, there was no doubt i would use the same type oil, i was pleased to find that maxima made a synthetic blend, tundra for snowmobiles so thats what im using!, now this is my personal opinion, and im sure that someone will say thats junk, i run amsoil at 80:1 and its the best, or this or that is better, but for me time is what tells the tale, and time and time again this is the best thing ive found to keep a 2 stroke engine running day in and day out, id rather be riding than doing engine top end work, also another tip is to keep your engine just a bit rich it helps with engine longevity, just my 0.2 cents

if its not a CAT, then it must be a dog!
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by erick:

I am using the Polaris gold oil. I will pull the valves out after the season and see how bad they got.


Vote for Snowmobile Fanatics.com[/quote]

Erick I was useing a mix of the Gold oil and the VES. Depended on what I could find at the shops when I went in, seeing that I rode last year in three different parts of WI. I also used Amsoil and Specro. I thought the valves would be worse than they were. I am going to do a camparison test myself by only useing the same type of oil in between cleanings. If I get access to a digital camera I will post pics of the difference. I plan on doing the cleanings at 500 miles. But we need snow first this year. Not looking good.
 

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It would be nice to see jb's comparison (if we get some freakin' snow!). But I've already seen this done with Yamaha SRX 700's. It made my brother and his Yamaha buddies Amsoil believers. They can't believe the difference in valves. All the oils mentioned will probably perform well as they are all high quality. One thing to remember: if an oil causes valves to become rapidly dirty, it surely isn't burning very cleanly, which decreases lubrication and efficiency. I don't understand why anyone would have to run a low quality oil based on price. Here in WI, I pay $19 a gallon for Amsoil right off a shop's shelf. That's less than the Polaris dealer charges for their entry level petroleum. Now that my brother buys by the drum, he gives it to me for $15 a gallon. I'm sure I'm not the only one who can get these deals. BTW, I run a non-valved XC 700 so I don't have to worry about cleaning valves. But I still wouldn't run anything but a high quality oil. The way I see it, if you can't afford the oil, then you can't afford the sled.

TOO MUCH IS JUST RIGHT!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I dunno, I'd rather pay less for the oil (A buddy of mine has a 1995 Indy 440, been running this Torco oil that I am running, and his engine got 10 thousand miles out of it before a rebuild, so it's obviously working) and clean my valves after 400 or 500 miles of riding, (cleaning takes 20 minutes tops).

I think it's extremely idiot-like to spend 20 bux or more a gallon for oil. That's basically feeding a rip-off market.

If you can afford the sled you can afford the oil. That is not true. When someone dishes out 8 or 9 thousand dollars for a machine, that doesn't mean you have another 3 grand sitting in the bank for fuel and oil payments.

It's not like I'm poor and can't afford VES oil, but I figure why bother when I can just clean the valves. 20 minutes. whoop tee doo.



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Discussion Starter #17
I do agree with "If you want to play, you have to pay" That statement makes way more sense. Because you buy the machine for fun, and to run it you will have to dish out cash. But the if you can afford the sled statement doesn't makes as much sense because someone could have 9000 dollars in the bank, go spend 8500 on a sled, then have 500 to run 10 dollar a gallon oil and 87 octane fuel. You are still paying, just not nearly as much.



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Over ten thousand hard miles on my modified Ultra. It has been amazing. It still runs strong. Used cheaper oils always. But the last two seasons found and used that synthetic blend stuff I mentioned earlier. Won my class and got second fastest mph. of the day in the local grass drags this fall . I dont trust the what the oil companies tell you any more since I found out the expensive 4 cycle engine oil that you get from the Honda dealer for your motorcyle is 10W40 Kendall motor oil. I wouldn't mind betting that alot of the expensive oils (not synthetic) are the same as the cheaper ones with the exception of the dyes.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by vetboy:

on our dirtbike power valves we use oven cleaner to clean them it works fast and easy, just a tip, dont get that stuff on your hands though it burns!

if its not a CAT, then it must be a dog![/quote]

I tried oven cleaner on my 800s valves, it hardly touched the surface of that burnt on sticky spooge. Lacquer thinner did the trick.


2001 ZL800
Delta IIs
Power Breather
MBRP Silencer
Coupling Kit
Goodwin Clutch Kit

Creek beds don't make good brakes!
 

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ya gotta leave it sit for awhile dude!

if its not a CAT, then it must be a dog!
 
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