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Discussion Starter #1
I pull them out, I know they weren't clean.
I was Right[}:)]
[galleryattach=12838]

What's up with the little bit of sealant on the gasket???

[galleryattach=12839]

If I replace the gaskets (I have new ones). Do I put anything on them?? Thin film of oil? Dry? A bit of sealant like these ones have?

And, does it matter left of right...is there an upside down? Or just shove them back in..[:D]
(I did mark them by the way)

Thanks in adavnce. (got them soaking now..will clean them tonite after work)


edit. What about the bolts? Just snug them up nicely? Or is there a specific torque value. I read somewhere 100in.lbs. Thats not alot. So I am thinkin' just snug'em up and a 1/4 turn???
 

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The sealant is already on the gasket. Bolt are torqued to 12 ft.lbs on cover and 6 ft.lbs on valve cap.
They will only go in one way. They should go back in same hole(wear pattern).
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The gaskets I picked up from my dealer are just dry black paper. There is none of this red gasket maker stuff??? Should I add some?
 

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I guess you could put a little dab on it. When I got mine they were green with a tiny line of red sealer.
 

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I didn't have any on mine. i have some ac delco gasket maker i added to one of my Friend's gaskets cuz his was leaking. i wouldn't add it if ya don't need it. iam sorry for the horrible spelling guys[:(]
 

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Originally posted by proxJ
[br]I didnt have any one mine i ahve some xc delco gasket maker i added one my freind cuz his was still leaking. i wouldnt add it is ya dont need it.
Do you proof read your posts before you click Post New Reply.....
 

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I never use sealent on mine,as long as the surface is clean just the gasket is fine.
 

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Originally posted by BarkMulcher
[br]

If I replace the gaskets (I have new ones). Do I put anything on them?? Thin film of oil? Dry? A bit of sealant like these ones have?

Shouldn't have to put anything on them. I never did with mine. If they are the Polaris gaskits just stick them on.

And, does it matter left of right...is there an upside down? Or just shove them back in..[:D]
(I did mark them by the way)

Like XCR440 said..make sure they go back in the proper hole and there is a top and bottom, and it should be marked on the valve anyways


edit. What about the bolts? Just snug them up nicely? Or is there a specific torque value. I read somewhere 100in.lbs. Thats not alot. So I am thinkin' just snug'em up and a 1/4 turn???

Thats about what I do...turn them untill snug then turn about 1/4. But no more...you can easily stripp the thread. Been there done that

On a side note! Make sure you clean the hole on the cylinders also that line up with the VES housing. It is important that it is cleaned. Usually a paperclip and something like Wayens Nutbuster or something similar works well
 

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144in/lbs is actually quite a bit or torque on them I think. I have to deal with torquing stuff every day and rarely see a 10mm bolt be torqued that high. Usually around 70in/lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice....

Whoever took this apart before put so much red locktite on it....Grrrrr!!!! I guess my valve snapping off at the shaft is a bad thing! LOL....

Off to the dealer I go....$100 down the hole.. Why can't S&*T go right.
 

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In the install they say to use #262. Which is some strong stuff. I personally use nothing and just snug it up.
 

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The main thing for not having to clean them is using synthetic oil. I believe the Polaris valves are spring returned. Well the Yamaha SRX and Viper ones aren't. If they get gummed up with sludge, the cables that open the valves will eventually pull right through the valves, thus making you buy new valves, and new cables too. Thats like $90 canandian for cables and $330 for valves. So use synthetic oil, Amsoil Interceptor is good stuff. Use it after you clean your valves and see the difference. As for the gasket, I wouldn't use and sealant, just maybe on the bolt threads a dap of thread lock. Most the gaskets I've seen have a little bit of sealent already on them. Good Luck to you.
 

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poke around.. there are a few guys fixing the valves but taping and threading a bolt in.
I've done a few now that are tought, always heat them up a bit, should losses the locktight and not broken one yet.
While there off look at your bellows for tears.
Gaskets, dry is fine, clean the surface are your good.
 

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Originally posted by BarkMulcher
[br]Nice....

Whoever took this apart before put so much red locktite on it....Grrrrr!!!! I guess my valve snapping off at the shaft is a bad thing! LOL....

Off to the dealer I go....$100 down the hole.. Why can't S&*T go right.
I feel for you bro,

"Yeah, I think I want a new snowmobile. Itd be a hoot cuz this new stuff never breaks down anymore, hardly no maintainence at all and everythings easy and simple to work on cuz its a two stroke and I can do it all myself!"


Welcome to snowmobiling, gads I piss away more money on this hobby than I ever did on drugs, hookers or booze. To clarify the idiocy, its a perfecly rational decision to part-out your perfectly good sled to lessen the blow when you try to sell it. This isnt a hobby, its a drug habit.

Sure be nice to get some snow tho wouldnt it?
 

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Originally posted by Zrxpilot
[br]To clarify the idiocy, its a perfecly rational decision to part-out your perfectly good sled to lessen the blow when you try to sell it. This isnt a hobby, its a drug habit.
I hear ya there. I parted out my old sled that I would have been lucky to see $1,200 out of, but by parting it out I cleared $2,200.00.

Bark, I just cleaned my valves a couple weeks ago. If I'd read your post and saw that you broke one before I did mine, I probably would have paid someone to do it for me! I hate when I break crap. I spend enough money on this addiction as it is.

[galleryattach=12624] [galleryattach=12623]
 

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yes its very easy to strip out the aluminum in the cylinder when tightening the power valve bolts. You can do a couple of different things to fix it, but i chose to just use a bigger bolt. You could do a heli coil or time sert, or use that new loctite thread maker stuff. I havent tried it yet though.
 

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I stripped one last fall and used the locktite thread repair. It worked great, until either the heat from the engine or the vibes broke the stuff up in there. I just ran a tap through it for the original size bolt, it cleaned up the threads enough to snug it up gain. yay.
 

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I stripped one out last winter and I just tapped it out to a 1/4 bolt. Ushually I tighten them to 10ft/lbs but that day I free handed it for some reason.
 
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