Snowmobile Fanatics banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey, anyone got any recommendations for cleaning and degreasing under the hood?

If you can read this I'm parked!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,770 Posts
I just did that to my 81 Trailcat, but it needed a good overhaul so I did it this way: remove hood, dash, seat, fuel tank, engine, all fuel lines and pump, wrap electrical connections in plastic, and tape them up, then soak engine compartment with an engine degreaser, or citrol (made from citric acid from organges), then off to the car wash, good heavy go with wand on soap setting then rinse. You might need to use degreaser again, so bring it along.
You can carefully use rags with degreaser, citrol or laquer thinner in a well ventalated area if you dont want to strip your sled to its tunnel.
Plug up your carbs, protect electrics before hand and coat pipes with WD-40 after to keep the rust away.
I did this with the sled on my 2 up flat deck trailer, saves your back, big time.
Good luck,
K

When hell freezes over, we'll ride there too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,039 Posts
Try Simple Green mixed with a little warm water. It's much easier on the hands than petroleum based solvents and it really cuts through stuff. I use it full strength on engine parts and carbs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,770 Posts
That is what I used as my degreaser.....I would have mentioned Simple Green but I thought that it was a Canada only product.....use that, it works great full strength.

When hell freezes over, we'll ride there too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
K, thanks for all the tips. There are some things I wasn't thinking of. Simple Green had crossed my mind also. I think I may do more spot cleaning than a major job though. I'm not sure yet. By the way. Anyone have any opinions on using Rustoleum High Heat BBQ flat black paint for the exhaust?

If you can read this I'm parked!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
Brake Kleen (or similar) works great. Really removes grease, doensn't harm electrical or paint and evaporates so you don't have to rinse.

-----------------------------
I think.... therefore I sled
-----------------------------
Two '94 Indy XLT SKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,188 Posts
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by XLT SP Yeah!:
K, thanks for all the tips. There are some things I wasn't thinking of. Simple Green had crossed my mind also. I think I may do more spot cleaning than a major job though. I'm not sure yet. By the way. Anyone have any opinions on using Rustoleum High Heat BBQ flat black paint for the exhaust?

If you can read this I'm parked!
[/quote]

Worked for me!
I used it on the 3 into 1 header on what used to be my xcr 600. I sand blasted the exhaust lightly, primed it, and used that super high-temp BBQ flat black paint and it worked great! One year later, the bolts looked rusty, but the exhaust still looked like new. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
134 Posts
yes simple green and some warm water works great...my dad uses that for eveyrthing...just thought id add cause im at skool and im bored as hell....o well...

Duct tape the only real solution
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
All these suggestions are great. One of my other concerns is what components under the hood I should be careful not to get wet. I guess just like a car, anything electrical.

***********************
If you can read this I'm parked!
***********************
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,729 Posts
I use something made by Goo Gone....its made for automotive purposes and its a citrus based solvant. I found mine in wal-mart back in the automotive department.....stuff cuts through grease, oil and just a bout everything else with ease.

Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by XLT SP Yeah!:
All these suggestions are great. One of my other concerns is what components under the hood I should be careful not to get wet. I guess just like a car, anything electrical.

***********************
If you can read this I'm parked!
***********************
[/quote]


If you use Brake Kleen you don't have to worry about any of the electicals since it evaporates completely. Any other products, I'd stay away from Electical and airbox. Brake Kleen is excellent on clutch sheaves too since it dries up with no residue.



-----------------------------
I think.... therefore I sled
-----------------------------
Two '94 Indy XLT SKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Where did you buy Brake Kleen? Auto Parts? Walmart?

**************************
If you can read this I'm parked!
**************************
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
I'm in Canada so you might not find brand specific. I'd go to your local Napa dealer or the like and order aerosol brake cleaner Looks like WD-40 but does not leave a residue and dries immediately. Costs about $3/can but its worth it for quick jobs where you don't decide to take the motor out and do the full job.

cheers.

-----------------------------
I think.... therefore I sled
-----------------------------
Two '94 Indy XLT SKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
425 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Well I bought some heavy duty brake parts cleaner as the label names it. It is made by Prestone (the anti-freeze people) It was about 2 bucks at Wal-mart. Guess I'll give that a shot to start since I may have the can out this weekend for cleaning the brakes on my jeep. I also saw alot of orange based products products and the all powerful Simple Green. They all seem to state the same thing. One thing I noticed was Orange Clean has a foam. It is in a can like easy-off oven cleaner. That looked interesting.

**************************
If you can read this I'm parked!
**************************
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
948 Posts
XLT SP stay off the belt and carb boots. Brake cleaner has a drying tendency and could crack rubber over time, if you continue to apply in heavy doses. just a squirt around those parts are fine but don't drown them. Should remove drive belt anyway... when cleaning so grease won't contaminate the belt or clutch parts.

-----------------------------
I think.... therefore I sled
-----------------------------
Two '94 Indy XLT SKS
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,966 Posts
XLT SP This is what works best for me. I use a can of Gunk degreaser with a brush and a garden hose. I remove the exhaust and air box spray the Gunk all over the engine compartment brush it down to loosen up the grease and oil let it sit for about 10 min. and hose it down. Just be carefull not to spray in the carbs and the exhaust. When done put exhaust and air box back on and fire it up and let any moisture burn off. Works great Riley

good day
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,188 Posts
Bman is right on. Brake cleaner can dry out everything including rubber and gaskets, that's why it should never be used on a fully assembled engine. Engine degreaser is designed just for this reason, then wash it off with water. Carb cleaner can be used to substitute brake cleaner, but it is less powerful, however; it is safer on rubber parts and gaskets and that's why carb cleaner can be sprayed all over your carbs, but brake cleaner should not. None of these products are good for the paint, so avoid overspray.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,770 Posts
Worked for me!
I used it on the 3 into 1 header on what used to be my xcr 600. I sand blasted the exhaust lightly, primed it, and used that super high-temp BBQ flat black paint and it worked great! One year later, the bolts looked rusty, but the exhaust still looked like new. Good luck.


[/quote]
Hey Megaman,
What type of primer did you use? Was it super high temp as well?
I would think that it would have to be or it would just cook off.
Thx,
K

When hell freezes over, we'll ride there too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,188 Posts
Actually, one of my buddies sand blasted it at work and put on some kind of primer that i am unaware of. Maybe it was automotive primer, but i think i remember asking him about that and it sounds like it was just regular grey primer. I don't know much about paint at all, but perhaps primer adheres to metal better than we think. I don't even have that sled anymore....LOL. Also, instead of sandblasting, just sanding (with sandpaper) the entire exhaust down really good works well. Then rinse it off with mild soap and water, let dry, and prime! The worst that can happen is that it rusts in a couple of years and you have to do it again.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top