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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well after a decent 100 mile day I got within about 10 miles of getting home and I noticed that my sled was dying and I could hear a clank. When I got home I put my sled on a stand and rev'd it out and and put on the brake the clutch would open 3/4 of the way then snap back out the rest of the way. While riding the primary also stay engaged down to 1750-2000 rpm. Then snaps all the way out. So basically the clutch doesn't disengage all the way and it bogs because it's not making enough power at those rpms. Got real Old on the way home trying to ditch bang. Now a question about disassembling and remove the primary. Can I remove the primary without a puller? Also how hard is it to take apart the clutch?

Thanks for the help guys, I hope I can get it fixed soon.
 

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Did the spring just break? If so, you should be able to change that without removing the clutch from the engine.
 

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i dont know much about arctic cat clutches, nor have i had one apart. but a broken spring sounds close. possible weight hang up?

maybe binding, it happens to some polaris clutches. i dont know how similar they are though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Right now I'm crossing my fingers the weights didn't eat up the spider. Clutch puller will be here tommorrow. Hope I got a big enough breaker bar lol.
 

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Could also be belt dust and crud binding up the cover bushing and sheave bushing. Unless its something simple, it might be time for a rebuild.
 

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so that cats do use the spider buttons between the clutch towers? its possible they have gotten so worn down the clutch is twisting and binding. crazy how those bushings and other parts get torn up by centrifugal force.
 

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Bmxican said:
so that cats do use the spider buttons between the clutch towers? its possible they have gotten so worn down the clutch is twisting and binding. crazy how those bushings and other parts get torn up by centrifugal force.
Yeah, pretty much the same setup, they just look a little different. The buttons get work out from sliding back and forth against the towers as the clutches upshift and downshift constantly as you ride. As they wear, and the bushings wear, the movable sheave will def cock sideways and move around and bind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
To remove the clutch I want to tighten the puller by turning it to the right? Correct? Cat clutches are pretty simPle, at least from the parts diagram I looked at.
 

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Empire087 said:
To remove the clutch I want to tighten the puller by turning it to the right? Correct? Cat clutches are pretty simPle, at least from the parts diagram I looked at.
If you turn it to the left it will just unthread itself, right?[thumb] Just crank it up and itll hopefully just pop right off. Light tapping on the puller with a hammer while its torqued up is ok, dont hit it hard. If that dont work there are a few other methods for stubborn clutches.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
lol ok, just wanted to make sure it wasnt some crazy reverse threaded crap. Hope epi makes a decent puller.
 

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Empire087 said:
lol ok, just wanted to make sure it wasnt some crazy reverse threaded crap. Hope epi makes a decent puller.
if you are into servicing your stuff regularly you should get a clutch holding tool also. works great for pulling the clutch and works well for getting an accurate torque spec when putting it back on. better than sticking the handle of a hammer through the clutch and potentially breaking the spring.

and you need a bench mount clutch holder deal to spin that primary apart further than just taking the cover off. the nut is probably torqued on there to 300 ft/lbs and the spider should be torqued the same or more. get a decent sized bar for removing this, using something short and straining yourself isnt worth it, especially when it breaks loose and you bust your knuckles up.

ide recommend washing it up with some cleaner like simple green or something, then wash it off with hot water. dish soap works as well, but doesnt cut the belt dust as good. a clean clutch is a happy clutch. they wont get tired on you as fast.

check the tolerances between the spider button and towers, shouldnt be more than .003" of play when set up properly. im sure arctic cat makes a shim kit for it. it gets involved if you dont have the right tools. if you do get to shim the buttons, make sure they go on the load side of the spider.

if there is a lot of play in the rollers, means the bushings are worn out, u can hear metal on metal when you tap on them.. no good, need to be replaced so you dont get flat spots.

sorry to ramble on just thought ide give you some tips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What's the best way to torque them back Down? I'll have a cheater bar for sure to get the stuff loose. This is gonna be an interesting project for sure.
 

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Empire087 said:
What's the best way to torque them back Down? I'll have a cheater bar for sure to get the stuff loose. This is gonna be an interesting project for sure.
well i use my dads 600 dollar torque wrench. but those arnt at everyones disposal unless you know someone who has a shop with a lot of tools.

find a torque wrench that exceeds 300 ft/lbs. only way to do it right.
 

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I did not read the above posts but my bet is one of your weight's bushing is work. and a weight is pushing into your spyder. happened to me, and it was exactly how u described.

And clutch bolts are only to be torqued to like 50 pounds or something like that. not much.

the clutch spyder is sapost to (sp) be torqued down to 270 pounds though. And tighten the puller, and hit it with a hammer a few times, them re-tighten the puller, and hit it again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My advanced auto might have one for rental. If not I'll just pay for a dealer to do it. My dads work might have one I can use though.
 

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Empire087 said:
My advanced auto might have one for rental. If not I'll just pay for a dealer to do it. My dads work might have one I can use though.
clutch puller? Buy one... they're like $30. good thing to have..
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Clutch puller will be here tommorrow, torque wrench is the hard part.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow my weights, bushings, bolts, and possibly more are toast. Not looking good. However if I'm lucky and I can salvage my spider I will definitely be getting a new clutch kit. 120$ for weights springs and a new helix, from dd then spend another 50 on bushings and I should be set.
 

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ouch. i recommend getting a button tool. makes button removal so much easier. either that or if you have a good set of pliers with some good teeth on them, you can grip the button and use the pliers leverage off the spider and pop them out. beats drilling a hole, then getting a punch..then tapping away.

as long as u are ordering a kit, you should get spider shims to set your belt to sheave clearance. the button tool has angled ends on it designed for checking the tolerance between belt and sheave. the measurement should by .010"-.035"

if its over that measurement, your clutch isnt gonna grab your belt well, do you have a new belt for it?
 
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