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Discussion Starter #1
Here's my sad little story...just bought an old '80 Yamaha Excel V (cheap kid trainer). Engine seems to run okay, although the exhaust smoke leaves a nice little oily patch on the trailer. Currently the Secondary is locked in an "open" position, preventing the belt from seating on the perimeter of the sheaves (the benefit is that it is incredibly easy to take the belt off). The primary pulley responded to an rpm increase, although it seemed as if it took a lot of revs to get it to move in (and when it did, it came together quickly), but would still not engage the belt. I'm not sure if this is due to the fact that the secondary wasn't creating tension or if the primary is broken as well. Since the machine is old, and I bought it "as is", I'm not sure of it's condition (and other potential problems..oh say like "does the track even turn?!") and hate to put a lot of money into it. My mechanical skills are also limited. My questions are:

Is it difficult to change the secondary?
Is replacing the Secondary's internal components (springs and "bushings(or sliders?)") a viable/better option?
Is it difficult to replace/repair the primary? Does replacing the primary's internal components make more sense? Is this needed, or does the lack of tension seem plausible?

Any simple fix to the "oily" exhaust...or is the engine problem worse that the clutch???

Or, should I just shoot this pig?????????

Any help/answers would be appreciated!!!
[8D]
 

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Wow, here goes... Repair the secondary it is most likley causing the primary problem as you said its all about tension. Take it apart and free it up. Its tricky but you should be able to get it. then the oily exhaust should get better with use or a good carb cleaning. You should probably go over the whole sled. Carbs, clutchs, and suspension including bearings.
 

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Like Hotrod said a little elbow grease will go a long way. There is a good chance that the secondary is just in need of cleaning. At worst you may need to replace the spring and the pads. Clean the carb up good and if it's still puking out oil you can lean it out at idle. If it's for your kids and it will be at lower RPMs, than you can run it leaner. Let us know what you find when you get that clutch apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks zack attack and hot rod - I'm going to try and pull the secondary today. I've always been intimidated by working on my sleds myself, and fortunately have never really had to. I guess there's no time like the present to begin learning! Wish me luck, and thanks again. [8D]
 

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Good luck buddie. And if you got an extra 40 bucks AAen has two handbooks one for clutchs and one for carbs. They can really help you learn what you need to maintain or improve these vital components of your sleds. 20 bucks each last time I looked.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I jumped in eagerly...but didn't get too far! Managed to get the cap lock bolt off without hurting myself, but I can't seem to slide the secondary off the drive shaft. Afraid to pry too hard, and I don't have any special tools. Any suggestions.
 

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Its been along time since I worked on a yamaha. I actually had a XL V for a while. I am pretty sure after you remove the bolt and washer there will be a spacer in there and it just normally pulls out and then the clutch should just pull off too. Try to get some penetrating oil in the bore. there is a keyway that could become stuck with a little rust. Wait awhile for the oil to work and see if someone verifies that it just pulls off. then start prying from the back as close to the shaft as you can get. you might have to rotate the clutch 180 degrees to allow the P-oil to soak in all around the shaft. Good luck.
 

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This picture might help. It's from a 1990, but the secondary might be the same or similar. Looks like a splined shaft as opposed to a keyway.

Jacqui.


/snofan/../images/users/jacqui583/secondary.gif
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Jacqui, hotrod, zackattack - I would be totally lost without you guys...
While I don't think the diagram is exactly the same, it does look very similar. Do I need to do something different to remove the clutch from the "splined" shaft? Still can't seem to get it loose after trying the oil. I can see a hex nut like the "bearing/washer/thingamajob" piece #11 in jacqui's diagram, but it is on the "in" side of the mount bearing for the jackshaft. Do you think this will need to be loosened as well?
 

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Here's the link for where I got that picture; it has a parts list with it.

http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaSnow.asp?Type=13&A=3&B=16

I wouldn't think you need to loosen that bearing to take off the secondary, but as Hotrod said it could be siezed or rusted on the shaft. I would probably try prying it with a prybar, or even one on either side to equalize the pressure. It might take some elbow grease or a few hits with a hammer on the prybar to shock it loose. I don't know if you could use a gear puller here or not; maybe someone else could answer that. I don't see anything else holding it on besides the bolt. The splined shaft makes no difference to a keyway as far as how it comes off. When you go to put it back together I would put a little anti-sieze on the shaft.

Jacqui.
 

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Try partially screwing the bolt (#9) back into the shaft without the spring and retaining washer etc. and gently tap on the head of the bolt while pulling on the driven pully, this should help "snap" it loose. This works for me!
 

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I wouldn't use a gear puller on a clutch.
I saw one that someone had done that to and it was warped at all three spots where the puller was hooked on the clutch.
You can well imagine how well that squeezes a belt.
This might be a long shot, definitely a last resort, but you might try applying some heat (LIKE AN ELECTRIC HEAT GUN, NOT a torch) to the area as close to the shaft as possible.
Good Luck.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the continuing input. I can't seem to get it to budge, although I can move the jackshaft (slightly). Next step heat or disassemble on the shaft. Any suggestions?
 

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IMHO, you have to get that secondary off or the sled is useless to you. I don't think you can take it apart on the shaft, and getting it back together would be even harder. Trailblazer and I are sitting here racking our brains trying to come up with possible solutions.

Try rotating the back sheave (number 2 in the picture); perhaps it is binding or seized and not allowing the helix (number 4) to slide back into position, and therefore putting extra tension on the jackshaft.

Trailblazer is really against using a gear-puller because he has seen damaged clutches from someone else using them. This results in having to replace the clutch; not necessarily something you want to do on a 1980 sled ($$$).

I, on the other hand, say AS A LAST RESORT to try a gear-puller. As I said earlier, you can't ride the sled as it is. If all else fails, that's what I'd try. Maybe you'll get lucky and it will come right off with the puller. Or maybe you'll trash the clutch in the process. Are you a gambler?[8D]

Best of luck; we're both rooting for ya!

Jacqui.
 

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I would remove the bearing, then open the chaincase and remove the top gear. this should allow the jackshaft to be pulled out of the back of case and brake assembly. then press the shaft out of the clutch. its a little more work but if done right you wont ruin any parts.
 
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