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Discussion Starter #1
Is there any advantage or disadvantage to lightly sanding the sides of my clutches??? Will it give me less belt slip or more???
 

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sanding the inside of the sheaves would be bad if you don't do it right. Could take away from your top end a little bit by not letting the belt ride as high on the primary or as low on the secondary. On the secondary youw would have to do it right to get it so the belt sits nice and high when the clutch is disengaged and real low at top speed.
 

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dependent upon how well you sand it. If you don't go to a real fine grit the sheaves will be rough adn wear the belt when it slides up and down. As for slip if you feel it they are pretty slick now so I can't say for sure. I can't say how to do it just can';t think of it. A lathe if you have access to one.
 

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How about gettin a buddy to hold the throttle and you hold the steel wool to the sheave. a bit unorthadox and dangerous but what the hell.

When in Doubt Ride it Out
 

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Discussion Starter #7
its what i have tinking about. No need to open the throttle, the clutch turn on idle :)

but Sled Dog say that ian possibly damage my clutch, dunno if i will do it now
 

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nevermind I just thought for a minute. The primary closers not opens as the throttle goes. I was thinking the opposite duh /me smacks head



Edited by - Sled_Dog on February 05 2002 2:25:08 PM
 

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yeah I was thinking the primary is the same as the secondary where you would have to throttle up to open it but it is the opposite.
 

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For running with out a belt, it depends on what clutch you have. A clutch like a polaris or comet 102c (or what ever it is) you can technicly do it, but I wouldn't go too nuts. But one like the Comet duster, has plastic "pucks" in it that will fly out when reved up. I've seen it happen
We have done the sand paper trick on some vintage stuff, but that is because they were steel and were rusted. They still never seemed to work properly though.

 

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Don't sand it, just lightly scrub them. 50/50 mixture of water and rubbing alcohol, and use the rough side of a Scotch-brite sponge. It cleans the sheaves of light oil, bad films and especially the occasional belt residue that you'll see on the primary. I've done it on alot of older sleds and it works great! They have that shiny new look to them as well. I learned this trick at a machine shop.

Oh, and leave the engine off.


Let it snow!
 

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I personally leave my clutches alone, they are precision equipment.

Also sanding while the engine is running is insane, that thing runs @ 1500 to 3000 RPM at idle.

Ever seen a video of someone who got their hand ripped off on a PTO (Power take off) on a piece of farm equipment? Those shafts turn 1000 RPM max. It's not pretty.

Don't screw with clutches, unless it's like weights or springs.



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Yeah, I have to go with sled dog on this one, it's pretty dumb to scratch up a clutch.



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I Love B&M Coasters.
 

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Yeah, I would maybe leave it alone. It would suck to get some fingers or even your whole arm ripped off by it. Like Polaris-Man said, clutches are precision pieces of equipment. They don't take change easy.


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The guys are right, I wouldn't play with this part of your clutches unless you really have some serious marks in your clutches. If you've got rubber deposits, or dirt on your clutches I would get a can of brake clean and spray the surfaces down. It really does an excellent job on them, and its not flamable.
 

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<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>Originally posted by spud:

How about gettin a buddy to hold the throttle and you hold the steel wool to the sheave. a bit unorthadox and dangerous but what the hell.

When in Doubt Ride it Out

[/quote]
I wouldn't use steel wool it has oil on it, try using a scotch bad and then clean
the clutches with acetone.
 
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