clutching advice
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Clutch kits make a big difference in all-around performance. I have personally never used one so I can't really elaborate on that. I just know people who have used them and they say the difference is amazing.
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Ride the Best!
Ride the Best!
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Well lars....i would say forget the pipes and stick to the clutch kit. The clutch kit will be more noticable on trails than pipes are. The pipes will be more noticable at higher speeds, and in some cases could even hurt the midrange of the engine.
And if you are looking for just that little bit extra you may even think about gearing down 1 tooth on the top sprocket in your chaincase. This will sacrafice top speed by about 5mph but you will have a greatly improved holeshot/midrange. Just my two cents on the topic.
Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
And if you are looking for just that little bit extra you may even think about gearing down 1 tooth on the top sprocket in your chaincase. This will sacrafice top speed by about 5mph but you will have a greatly improved holeshot/midrange. Just my two cents on the topic.
Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
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The guy who is rebuilding my engine says..
Almost every clutch that comes from the factory needs to be adjusted. He recommend gettting a new belt and laying it in the primary clutch on the shaft and then checking the side to side clearance. Optimum is .010 in. You adjust it by adding or removing shims in the clutch. He says it's some work but makes a huge difference. Something about the engine needs to be able to spin freely at idle and then be able to build some RPM's before hookup. I don't know what you guys think but it made sense to me I am going to have it done on my clutch. Is this true, any feedback?
Almost every clutch that comes from the factory needs to be adjusted. He recommend gettting a new belt and laying it in the primary clutch on the shaft and then checking the side to side clearance. Optimum is .010 in. You adjust it by adding or removing shims in the clutch. He says it's some work but makes a huge difference. Something about the engine needs to be able to spin freely at idle and then be able to build some RPM's before hookup. I don't know what you guys think but it made sense to me I am going to have it done on my clutch. Is this true, any feedback?
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What your mechanic says does make sense, but that is not all that should be done. Your primary weights and spring should also be looked at. This will raise/lower your engagement RPM and can change shifting characteristics. In essence what your mechanic is saying is that he is adjusting the clutch for the correct belt dimensions...while this will probably make a huge difference, a clutch kit changes shifting charcteristics and does not only work on the primary but the secondary clutch as well. I hope this rambleing made some sense.
Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
Polaris is my way out - Other people just use a door.
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4 Posts
I feel gearing down is a very good way of making your sled more snappy out of the corners, I also believe power reeds would make a big diffrence..
but from what I remember the R-12 Helix works wonders on that sled...
Good luck.
kainzamatic
but from what I remember the R-12 Helix works wonders on that sled...
Good luck.
kainzamatic
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Triumph,
Makes sense to me, thanks for the feedback. I don't want to go the clutch kit route just yet since this will be my first year with my own sled. I just want it to be reliable and have everything as optimal as possible for a stock sled. After a winter of riding I will have more idea of what if anything needs to be done. I'd rather be riding than wrenching even if I'm not the hottest sled on the trail. Getting too old for that anyway.
Makes sense to me, thanks for the feedback. I don't want to go the clutch kit route just yet since this will be my first year with my own sled. I just want it to be reliable and have everything as optimal as possible for a stock sled. After a winter of riding I will have more idea of what if anything needs to be done. I'd rather be riding than wrenching even if I'm not the hottest sled on the trail. Getting too old for that anyway.
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WHat would be a good clutch and good reeds to put on an 2000 ZR 600 EFI? thanks
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777 Posts
Polarisxltsp
a clutch kit will never hurt your reliability,first that sled is jetted to rich,needs around a 48-34 helix, stock is a straight 34 ,and the clutch shimming is reduce the the belt clearance,if there is to much clearance the engine will have a bog on take off because the clutch is already shifting before contacting the belt
a clutch kit will never hurt your reliability,first that sled is jetted to rich,needs around a 48-34 helix, stock is a straight 34 ,and the clutch shimming is reduce the the belt clearance,if there is to much clearance the engine will have a bog on take off because the clutch is already shifting before contacting the belt
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XC Special
I understand about the clutch adjustment, but not the jetting info, sorry I am still learning all the lingo. My carbs are 38 mm Mikuni's and I know stock jetting is too rich, but I thought the jets were like 270's or something. I plan to run rich for awhile because I am just getting my engine back from the shop this week with 3 new Wiseco's and a bore job. Feel free to educate me I take no offense and am glad to learn.
[a clutch kit will never hurt your reliability,first that sled is jetted to rich,needs around a 48-34 helix, stock is a straight 34 ,and the clutch shimming is reduce the the belt clearance,if there is to much clearance the engine will have a bog on take off because the clutch is already shifting before contacting the belt]
I understand about the clutch adjustment, but not the jetting info, sorry I am still learning all the lingo. My carbs are 38 mm Mikuni's and I know stock jetting is too rich, but I thought the jets were like 270's or something. I plan to run rich for awhile because I am just getting my engine back from the shop this week with 3 new Wiseco's and a bore job. Feel free to educate me I take no offense and am glad to learn.
[a clutch kit will never hurt your reliability,first that sled is jetted to rich,needs around a 48-34 helix, stock is a straight 34 ,and the clutch shimming is reduce the the belt clearance,if there is to much clearance the engine will have a bog on take off because the clutch is already shifting before contacting the belt]
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good idea to run it rich to break it in,didn,t notice it was being rebiult,also did anyone mention with wiseco piston to let it warm up real good,before taking off,heat exchangers should be warm,forged piston expand much faster then stock
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Thanks for the info. I asked the guy building my engine about the Wiseco's and he said that is not really true any more as long as the bore job is done right. He said they had some problems years ago with piston expansion but it is fixed now. Just follow the break in rules and you should be fine. Warming up before WOT is always a good idea anyway.
Thanks again, I think I am hooked on this site. Is it my imagination or is the site getting busier with the cool weather?
Thanks again, I think I am hooked on this site. Is it my imagination or is the site getting busier with the cool weather?
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