The best way is to flip the machine on it's side and remove the cover and adjust the tensioner until you have a 1/4" deflection in the middle of the long side of the chain. But, it is much easier to loosen the tensioner lock-nut and turn the bolt in by hand, no wrenches. Tighten it about half as tight as you could do it with your fingers. Then hold the bolt with one wrench so it doesn't turn as you tighten the lock-nut. This can all be done without removing the cover or tipping the sled. I also believe you can tighten it to a certain foot lbs. of torque and then back it off a 1/4 turn, but sorry I don't remember the figure. I have used the second method succesfully for years.
Thanks for your prompt reply. So if I loosen the jamb nut, tighten the idler bolt as tight as I can by hand, then back it off 1/4 turn, then hold this position with a wrench while tightening the jamb nut, I should be ok? (Just wanna be sure!)
Thanks for the replies. . . all of them make sense, however I didn't find anything on the web about torque, either in ft/lbs or in/lbs. I sent an email question to my local Polaris dealer, LaBaron's, and this was the reply:
"The chain adjuster is located on the outside of the chain case cover and can
be adjusted without taking off the cover. Once a year the fluid should be
drained out the drain hole on the bottom of the case. Next you roll the
sled onto the left side so that any fluid left in the chain case won't come
out when the cover is removed. This would also be a good time to inspect
the chain links for wear or breakage. If you don't want to remove the
cover, screw in the adjuster bolt by hand until it is tight, then back off
The other question I asked was an easy way to reach the main handle bar steering shaft grease fitting. He said there is no easy way! Ya just have to do the best you can.
Anyway, thanks again for all your replies and advice, now it's back to the barn for more preventative maintenance fun and games!
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