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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I just bought a 2003 Arcticcat F7 with electronic fuel injecters. Shes got 3,122 miles on her I got it from a dealer and he said he did a full inspection on it and everthing was good I got it for 3,400 it has many exterior extras but the I checked the compression and it as 120 on the mag side and 90 on the other does anybody have any ideas because I dont wanna take it to another dealer and get a 400 hundred dollars in labor I dont know a whole lot about engines so if anyone has any ideas on mabe what it could be ... LET IT SNOW!!
 

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The first thing I would check is the exh valves one could be stuck open and one closed ( it's good to get fimilar with cleaning these anyway) then look at the plugs are they both light brown? You may just need a ring job, has it been abused?
 

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yes clean and check the exhaust valves
 

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Dirty or out of adjustment Exhaust Valves will hurt performance,
but I doubt that is your problem.
Compression is made ABOVE the exhaust ports. Low compression would
indicate bad rings/piston/cylinder.
Pull the "Y" pipe and have a look inside.
how do the pistons look?
Have you ridden it yet? If not, explain your findings to the dealer.
He MAY offer to help remedy the problem,(good public relations) although I doubt very much he will rebuild it for free.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Check this out I just got it back from a dealer and the estimate on it was 2,086 a top end rebuild new cylinders 2 rings, pistons, gasketes and some other lil stuff the 2 cylinders were 1100 that crap or what anyone know the price on cylinders and the labor was only 268. dollars
 

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STOP! STOP IT RIGHT THERE!!!

First of all, what makes you think you have a problem at all other than the results of the compression test? How does the sled actually start and run? Does it run well and accelerate as it should? Has it even been driven in a while?

When you do a compression check, the motor needs to be HOT. Get it up to full operating temp, then shut it off, remove 1 plug at at time, check, then do the other.

If you still have a problem, like 1 cylinder is 125+ psi, and the other is below 100, you first should look into cleaning the exhaust valves. Its really pretty simple. really. They get carbon build up that often makes them stick open or shut.

If that does not improve your low compression problem, I would look into a new set of pistons and rings. You can get Arctic Cat ones if you want, you can get Wiseco, whatever, just as long as both sides are the same, its up to you. If you buy a nice set it will come with a base gasket and all the necessary head gaskets.

In order to remove the head and cylinders you first need to drain the coolant.
Even before you do that you'd want to remove the exhaust pipe, i think its in the way.
Then remove the head bolts, remove the head.
remove the cylinder nuts/bolts, probably 4 on each. Then pull up each cylinder.
To remove the pistons from the connecting rods you will need some type of small pick to remove the C clips that retain the needle bearing and rod. The needle bearings should be caged, so you dont need to worry about losing parts, just dont lose the C clip. Use a 1/4 inch ratchet extension and a small hammer to lightly tap out the retaning rod, and your piston is off.

If you do go through with this, inspect the cylinders for scoring, if they are scored vertically you may want to have them honed at a shop, or machined if the scoring is severe. if you have them machined oversized, you will need to buy oversized pistons and rings.

its totally something you can do yourself, if it is even necessary at all. Get some good data first and go from there. dont fix it if its not broken.
 

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Originally posted by thehawk789
[br]
When you do a compression check, the motor needs to be HOT. Get it up to full operating temp, then shut it off, remove 1 plug at at time, check, then do the other.
I'd also like to add that the throttle should be held wide open when pulling it over too.

3,100 miles on a stock suzy 700 is nothing. It's possible, but unlikely that this engine crapped out already.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The guy at the arcticcat dealer said as soon as he started it up he could tell there was something wrong I thought it sounded sweet but if I did buy bigger pistons what else would I have to get and what will I gain after its all done properly
 

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you will need the cylinders machined to a specific size, and you will need pistons to match. Thats it. You will gain 1-2 mph top end.
 

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Originally posted by ArcticCatKid83
[br]Hey I just bought a 2003 Arcticcat F7 with electronic fuel injectors. Shes got 3,122 miles on her [red]I got it from a dealer and he said he did a full inspection on it and everything was good [/red]



Originally posted by ArcticCatKid83
[br][red]The guy at the arcticcat dealer said as soon as he started it up he could tell there was something wrong [/red]I thought it sounded sweet but if I did buy bigger pistons what else would I have to get and what will I gain after its all done properly

Are you using two different dealers, or is this the same dealer. How could it be fine after a complete inspection, then loose compression when you get it home?

If you are truely after a big bore, (assuming you actually need all the parts listed) I'd just get the Bikeman Performance F8 kit.

http://www.bikemanperformance.com/products/product_info.php?products_id=27&osCsid=27c5e956e0802eae9d201fc98e13094d
 

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id take it back o the dealer and ask them what they are goin to do about it. Be nice tho they might treat you good if you treat them with respect.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did actially call them and tell them what happened and it took snowmobilerthem about a week of trying to ignore me but I finally got them to pay for all the parts their gunna send it to me within a week or two and then my dads serice manger is gunna put her back together hes big snowmobiler also
 
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