[Rever]

I currently own a 2002 Polaris Edge X 700. I have 144 Woody 1.075 studs installed on the track. I also changed the primary clutch wieghts from 10-62 to 10-64, these were purchased from Polaris. I am looking for somemore all round power in low end, midrange, and top speed. Can anyone help me find the correct clutch kit for this sled? Your recommendation for the correct setup for aggressive trail riding and some lake running will be greatly appreciated. What is a good clutch kit to purchase? Is it worth buying the parts separate from Polaris? []

 

[RMK-KING]

I have a friend that built his own clutch kit for that same sled and it goes awsome, he geared it down so it tops out at 96mph but it gets their faster then any other sled iv seen it riding with..Im not sure what his clutching combination is though that he used, Erlandson makes good clutch kits for polaris..

 

[Rever]

Thanks for the info RMK-KING. Anyway of finding out what set up he has?

 

[bigwilly]

Sorry I can't help but welcome to the forum Rever. This place gets really interesting in winter.

 

[RMK-KING]

Next time I see him I will ask him what he put in it..

 

[Rever]

Bigwilly, thanks for your greeting. I have read some of Madcows postings on clutch kits sounds very interesting. Hopefully Madcow can help me.

 

[larrywannamaker]

You could try http://www.thunderproducts.com/ yopu might find their products of some use... And welcome....

 

[Straightliner]

What I am going to Telling you will work. I have been clutching Polaris since 1994.[/size=2] Go with a dalton 54/38 or 54/40 helix . Myself I don't like EPI helix . Then on the motor clutch use yellow EPI spring. On the secondary clutch use black #2 hole. Try this with your 10-64 you may have to go to 10-66 depending on how heavy you are.If you can pull the 54/40 you will have a better ET. ET wins races! Also you need 192 of 1.175 on that inch track to hook. Just going from 10-62 to 10-64 you made a little gain. Let me know if you try it. You will be happy!!!!

 

[Rever]

Thanks for the info Straightliner!

 

[Polaris-Man]

Welcome to the forum, another highly recommended clutch kit for Polaris could be from hot seat performance.

www.hotseatperformance.com

 

[Offshore24]

Originally posted by Straightliner
[br]What I am going to Telling you will work. I have been clutching Polaris since 1994.[/size=2] Go with a dalton 54/38 or 54/40 helix . Myself I don't like EPI helix . Then on the motor clutch use yellow EPI spring. On the secondary clutch use black #2 hole. Try this with your 10-64 you may have to go to 10-66 depending on how heavy you are.If you can pull the 54/40 you will have a better ET. ET wins races! Also you need 192 of 1.175 on that inch track to hook. Just going from 10-62 to 10-64 you made a little gain. Let me know if you try it. You will be happy!!!!

Hi Straighliner, do you have any recommendations for clutching the 600 big block non ves engine used in the 1999 and 2000 XC's?

 

[Wood]

Hey straightliner, I think he's looking for more of a trail setup. That's too much helix for good backshifting and midrange upshift. I agree with using the Dalton helixs, they are tops. I would think their 50-36 or 52-36 would be a better all-around choice. 150-310 primary spring and stock silver/blue out back with 64's sounds about right. Good luck Rever!

 

[Straightliner]

Wood A 50/36 or a 52/36 is not enough helix you will get to much spin on hole shot and run out of steam on other end. My Brother has a 2002 x edge 700 studed 192 1.175. I have not seen to many 800s go buy it yet in 660 ft. Last year we ran some Fire Cats. It was back and forth all day. EPI has a 3 stage helix for back shifting trail set-up. You won't break no records with it. It is hard to get the best of both worlds.

 

[Straightliner]

Offshore 24 I have never clutched a 99 or 2000 XC 600. I did a 99 700 xc but that is not the same. As a rule with Polaris put more weight in the motor clutch and you will make about a 2 sled gain. If you have a buddy that has a 94 storm stock clutching try his helix with your stock weights that would be a 50/36 helix if you can pull it add 2 more grams of weight. When clutching you have to know what rpm your motor makes it's peak horsepower and shoot for that. Have your dealer look up your stock helix it may be a straight cut 34 if so you may have to go with a 48/34 or 50/34. Hope I didn't get you confused.

 

[Offshore24]

No you didn't confuse me. The stock is a 50/34 I think. I'll have to go back and look at my notes. I added 2 grams of weight last year and I pull nice but I top out at about 75 mph. I am getting to the peak rpm. It's approaching 3k miles now. Think I'll pull the clutches, clean em, and put new springs in before winter. See what that does. Thanks.

 

[Wood]

Straightliner, don't suppose you know anything about clutching the new Team roller secondary? I picked up an '03 Pro7 in the spring and not sure what to do. The sled will not be stock come fall. SLP pipe, ported, head cut and reeds. Thinking 66 grams with 140-320 primary, red/drk blue sec. (140-200) and no clue on the helix.......66/44/46? Any ideas? Helixs are not cheap so I'd like to get as close to the mark as possible on the first try.

 

[Rever]

Thanks guys for all the info.

 

[madcow]

by adding the wieghts are the shift rpms staying at 8200? i like to clutch hard enough so when you are crusing and punch it, it takes a second or two to get to full rpm, thats for aggressive lake riding, remove a tiny bit of wieght to make it more jumpy for tight twisty trails,
you have lots of options, i like the thunder shift wieghts myself, you get lots of tuneability for your money,
i also like straight angle helixs, if you have a stock 48-34 and go to a straight 36 you will notice gains,

 

[madcow]

do you have the team secondary clutch? if you have the stock clutch you can look at where the buttons start on the helix by the wear line, machine the back of the helix until the button gets close to the tip of the helix, you will pick up some gains there and it is only 10-15 dollars for machining,
gearing for the top speed you want to be at is a good idea also, but, aggressive trail riding and lake riding are two different setups, you want quick reving snappy for trail and pure shift out for lake racing, by keep adding wieghts until she can barely hold her rpm, is a good lake set up, now with the 10-64 wieghts you go up a couple notches in helix to bring the rpms down and twist up the stock spring one or two holes to get the rpms back up will give you good back shift and make it a snappy sled for coming into and out of corners,

 

[Rever]

Madcow, thanks for responding to my question. I have done somemore research and found that currently I have a R12 stock helix which is a 50/36. My secondary spring is silver/blue #2. Is that the position number? My primary spring is black/green. I have taken this info from my machine information sheet that was given to me when I purchased the sled. When I replaced the stock weights to 10-64, I did notice slight improvement. I do not remember the rpm. I think it was at 8200. I don't even remember what the rpm was with 10-62 weights. I spoke with erlandson and they suggested the pro kit for $350. I also spoke with my dealer and they recommended leaving the stock helix, stock secondary spring at #2, but change the primary spring to almond/red(165-310) or black/white(140-320) with the 10-64 weights. What do you think will work better? Or should I stick with the erlandson kit? I don't have much knowledge on clutching. 85% of my riding is aggressive trail riding. I weight 165lbs. Thanks once again Madcow!