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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any tips on how to flush & refill the coolant system on my '97 XLT SP? Any idea on what the capacity of the system is (no mention of it in my owner's manual)?

On the back of my snow jacket it says...

"If you can read this, the bitch fell off!"
 

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I have the same sled and am planning on rebuilding the engine over the summer. I don't have the shop manual for it yet, but I'm sure the process is quite similar for most sleds. Usually there is a bolt in the cylinder just above each of the exhausts. You need to raise the rear of the sled as high as you can, then put some sort of bucket under those bolts and remove them. This drains most of the coolant. There may still be some left in some of the hoses that are lower in the chassis, but this is neglageable.

My XLT has an in line coolant filter, so I'm sure yours does too. So now's the time to change it. Now what you need to do is raise the front of the sled as high (within reason) as you can. Begin adding fresh coolant (mixed 60/40) to the filler neck. Now at this point I'm not 100% sure, because I haven't done mine yet, but usually there are bleeder valves under the seat. The seat needs to be removed to have access to them. Loosen these valves and continue adding coolant untill no more air comes out of the valves and the filler neck is full. Now with the front of the sled still raised, start the sled and let it idle. This is how you get the remainder of the air out of the coolant lines. Make sure to watch your coolant level in the resivoir and the filler neck, you will probably need to add more. Run the sled untill no more air bubbles come out of the filler neck.

If come this winter your out on a ride and you find your sled is over heating, you probably still have some air in your lines. Once its cooled down, raise the front of the sled again and run it with the filler neck cap off to release the air bubbles. Hope this helps.



1997 XLT SP 600
"Engage the Mechanism"
 

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If you wanted, you could also add some Water Wetter from Redline Oil. I've just started using it to see how well it works, but truthfully I did not notice a big difference. It may be working, but you may not know it. It's supposed to keep your engine cooler by simply adding a few ounces to the coolant.

My theory: It doesn't necessarily keep your engine cooler as some claim, but merely adjusts the properties of the coolant itself. Basically, it eliminates hot spots on the cylinder in various crevises that coolant sits in, usually in areas of turbulence. These hot spots are hot because the coolant may not flow well enough to tame down the temperature, and then it actually vaporizes locally and the spot gets even hotter and possibly glowing red. The hot spot then can cause pre-ignition and detonation in the combustion chamber which if not stopped will destroy your engine.

As I understand it, Water Wetter is designed to reduce the chance of the coolant vaporizing, thus the name "make the water wetter". It allows more heat transfer of engine heat into the coolant, ultimately leading to a cooler engine, but more importantly an engine with no hot spots. So, technically, it does reduce the temperature by allowing the coolant to function better. And we all know that a cooler engine will last longer and put out more power. I believe it cost me about $8 from a local shop.
 

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how I make sure all my heat exchangers are empty is remove the hose that returns to the pump, and stick a compressed airline into the pressure cap hole, and stuff a rag around it so air cannot escape. Then put a bucket on the other end and give it air, all the water will drain out.



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i was just wondering, has anyone ever thought about putting one of those in-line flush deals where you hook a garden hose to, just like what you put in the heater hoses on cars??, i guess if you put it inline on the chaincase side, then either pull a hose off on the other side of the sled, it would work, or do like mentioned before, find a water jacket drain, and force the water out with the water pressure.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
You know, I was thinking that too! I would imagine you would have to run the machine to get the water pump to turn, otherwise it would stop the flow. I suppose you could disconnect one hose and have it run out of there while using the water hose & flushing tee. I'm not sure though...

On the back of my snow jacket it says...

"If you can read this, the bitch fell off!"
 
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