Snowmobile Fanatics banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1996 Ski-doo formula III 600 that will engage the track at 4000 rpms if the track is lifted and will not move the sled under its own weight or with operator. What could be the problem? Is the primary spring?primary clutch? or what? Any ideas would be appreciated.

I do recall that it does bog on occasion, sometimes yes other times no. I was able to ride the sled up my trailer a few weeks ago and have not been out since. Last week this issue came up. The primary belt does move and engage the belt with no movement of the belt. I have moved the secondary clutch by hand and it does not seem to have a bind anywhere in the track or other pieces. Any ideas on what to try? Will a weak spring cause this? A broken spring will not cause the primary clutch to move to the belt, right? Anyone have any cures????
[xx(][xx(][:(]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
It sounds either like a bushing is gone in your secondary or a really bad belt. I would check the secondary clutch first of all, the easiest way i have found of doing this is raising the track and watch the secondary clutch to make sure it opens and closes smoothly. If it seems a little rough on the backshift, take it apart and see how much play there is. also, look at the belt, if its shinny, its no good. Hope its nothing too serious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The brake is not locked as indicated by the moving track in the air. The belt does not look shiny although it is not new. I will try to replace the belt and see if it makes a difference. Any other ideas????[B)][?]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
this seems like it is an easy fix, but somehow we are missing information, tell us what happens with the belt and clutchs when you are sitting on it and try to go
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,770 Posts
I'm with Summitteer...sounds alot like secondary problems.
Like summitteer said, I'd definitely prop up the sled and run the track and watch the clutches, and make sure they slide in and out/out and in properly.
Here's a graphic that might help you search for what to look for in your secondary.
/snofan/../images/users/500fasEnuf/secondary2.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
500fasEnuf, Mattgross, I will go into the secondary clutch and look for any wear or damage, specifaclly the spring. Do I need any special tools to open the 2ndary clutch as I have never done this before? Will the spring shootout when the main bolt is removed? Can someone help the procedure and anything else that I should look for? Tanks![V][?]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
The two bushings to look at are #8 and #11 in the above diagram. Don't worry, nothing is going to fly out at you initially. If you've got a friend that is any good with clutch's, invite him over for dinner just for some guidance ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
you need a toll because it will be hard to get the snap ring off with out it, and getting it back together correctly will be hard with out it, i made my own and i can get picture later if you want, one thing when you take it apart don't go craxy and hust remove the helix and spring with out looking at the postion of the spring, there are 6 hole in the helix 1-6 and 3 hole in the clutch a-c
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,770 Posts
Originally posted by mattgross
[br]you need a toll because it will be hard to get the snap ring off with out it,
Matts talking about a snap-ring plier.
A good tool investment if you plan on doing your own service to your sled.
Here's a pic of a snap-ring plier.
/snofan/../images/users/500fasEnuf/toolsplus.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,188 Posts
may also want to invest in the right clutch tool to take the spring pressure off when you remove that snap ring, otherwise you could launch some clutch parts into your garage ceiling.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
accually for the skidoo rings you want a high quality on for the very large rings in the wheel bearings and the one on the clutch, the best one i have found is at sears. hey summit the plyers will only really work for the infernal one

tihis is the kind you want, and they make kit with 2 sizes, all you need is the big one and they sell it seperate


this kind here is crap for big stuff they bend, and they don't open far enough
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Had this problem once and it was a sheared key. NO load and friction would hold it, under load it would slip. I suppose same could happen with worn splines. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
128 Posts
here i go again! boys this dont soumd like a clutch problem from here! might even be a ufo caught up underneath ie tree parts! but all kidding aside driver shaft bearing failure? or chain case problem?[?]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
328 Posts
I think the reason why we are not leaning towards chain caseproblems is that when the track is on the stand it will spin the track. If it was the chain case it would turn at all. I'm really not sure about the driver shaft bearing, but isn't the clutch easier to check than that bearing? Thats the reason why i'm not leaning towards the chaincase or the bearing, although i have been known to be wrong. Matt, the plyers do work, not very well, but it is possible to do that if ya can't afford the O ring plyers. Whats that tool that takes the preload off? Never heard of it before.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
it mainly a threaded rod and a a bar shaped like this [ turned clockwise 90degrees, and you clamp it down on sides of the helix with a bolt on the threaded rod, then once the ring is off you unscrew the bolt on the rod and the helix slowly comes out and the spring pressure releases, then youi can revers is and you just turn the nut down and the helix will go into place. it looks just like this but i made mine and instead of the handles on top i have just a nut
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top