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Discussion Starter #1
[:D]
i read a lot of you say you are young and are limited on money.
the best bang for no or little money is to one make sure you limiter straps are equal length if you have two on the front or rear. of the rear susp.

run the track as lose as possible without ratcheting or risk of ballooning.

run as few wheels as you can trail permitting.

check clutch alignment. most are a tiny bit off. make sure your engine stop is in spec. it is there to hold clutch alignment.

make sure the chain is set right not to tight.

make sure ski toe in is right. dont waste speed and power to fighting skis.

a little time on the maintnance can go a long way.
 

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hehe I've been telling my friend that for a long time


I got a question about that chain tension....since it's kinda like a timing chain on an engine why would you want slack??? Not real tight but if there's slack then there is more slaming between the chain and teeth resulting in more wear as you accelerate & decelerate....
 

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I agree! I do the same thing.

Also, another area for free HP is with clutching.
Re-clutching your machine or simply getting a clutch kit will free up some horsepower on most stock sleds. It can totally change the way your machine feels. It allows more horsepower to get to the track. The manufacturer's will set them up for the typical rider for a wide array of conditions. A 100 hp engine may only average 50 hp to the track due to drivetrain inefficiencies, and loss of power due to friction of the typical (CVT) continuously variable transmission that snowmobiles use. You can see some nice performance gains with a little clutch work that matches your riding style. A clutch kit can sometimes be the best bang for your buck.
 

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Originally posted by Sno-X-treme
[br]hehe I've been telling my friend that for a long time


I got a question about that chain tension....since it's kinda like a timing chain on an engine why would you want slack??? Not real tight but if there's slack then there is more slaming between the chain and teeth resulting in more wear as you accelerate & decelerate....
Usually i just finger tighten the tensioner, back it up 1/4 turn, then tighten the nut. You don't want major slack, but it also can't be too tight or it will rob HP as well as risk the chain stretching or even failure. Snugg is perfect. IMO.

Also, remember a timing chain should be somewhat tight because it was designed to keep things precisely in sync at the perfect time. A snowmobile chain is only turning the track,.... not cams, valves or push rods. So it's not as big a deal.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
some friends tried them ufo's, they worked great he said. on a totally stock machine they cleared up some little spots in the throttle.

on a totally stock ultra we put a set of boysen reed petals on, they cleaned up the bottom end.
 

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Hmmm, I've been looking into possibly getting the ufo's, but I've heard mixed reviews. Some say they love em' and make a huge difference, and others say they didn't notice any difference. I think it was rocket that said they weren't worth the money. I guess the jury's still out on this one for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
depends on the machine. i say the team roller is a waste of 350 bucks but everyone who sells them says there great. sometimes its what the driver thinks he feels and not what is really happening.
 

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Ultra, pipes and other goodies. Add UFOs. HUGE difference off idle to 3/4 throttle. Improved my mileage substancially too. Snow Techs best bang for the buck award the year they came out. A challange to set up. You must know your tuning very well and my temp guages helped alot too. No think I feel here Madcow, had to change clucthing and suspension to try to keep the skis on the ground in the tight trails.
 
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