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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i just got done taking my secondary apart to make sure it was clean and nothing broken. I was told that the problem i was having could have something to do with that. well i took it apart and everything is bone dry in there. i havent done this before but it looks like the kind of stuff on cars that should have grease in it. so i guess what i am asking is should i put grease anywhere in the secondary or on the shaft? i need some help asap as i want to get this thing put back together this weekend and no shops are opened on sundays up here.
 

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a little bit of lube never hurts specialy on sat night!! oh yea its good fer yer clutch i mean snowmobile too. happy ridin![:D]
 

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Snowmobile clutches should not be greased. As your belt wears, rubber dust is created (just look at the top of your clutch guard). Grease only will attract the dust and create binding problems. I usually clean my clutches with Simple Green, and then wash them with hot water.
 

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Oh yea, grease your jackshaft and the center hole of your clutch so it moves freely on the jackshaft.
 

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grease the inside of your helix,where it slides over the shaft also,if you have ever tried to remove a helix thats seized on,
you,ll know what i mean, a lot of helixs have a 2 groves in the helix,, there to put grease in them
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
wow thanks for all the help! Is there any low buck mod i can do to it while i have it opened up that will improve backshifting and throttle response?
 

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If you have some miles or years on the sled, you may need to replace the spring & buttons. A multi angle helix would help, although I don't know what angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
what are the buttons? are they the hard plastic looking things that inside? if so i have one that looks like it has a crack in it and is misshappen. would it give me better backshifting to put a stronger or weaker spring in it? if so what are the trade offs of having better backshifting? is it the loss of top end speed and or power?
 

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I'd say clean that thing up realy good.....use as hot of water as you can and some grease cutting detergent (like simple green) and clean everything really well. You'll deffinatly want to replace those buttons especially if one's cracked....(and don't just replace on or two...always do all three) they're onlya buck or two each. Other than that as long as you don't see any spots where the Helix is grinding against something you're good to go. I'd put some grease on the shft the Helix slides on as well as the Jack shaft just to keep things from siezing. While you have the secondary off hit the Zerk fittings on the Jack shaft bearing as well as the Speedo Housing Bearing as they're a pain to get to with the secondary clutch on. I'm sure you're going to see a bit of preformance increase just from doing all that..... But like the other guys ssaid...n=a different Helix and Spring will give you a change...but for both it's probably around $100.
 

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Keep her clean and dry. The lub will attract belt dust and turn into goo... Clean dry clutch only has be be looked at once a year. For summer storage I do pull the secondary and lube the inner shaft where the helix rides and the clutch faces with fog.
Do lube the main jackshaft before you slip the clutch back on.
 

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Good backshifting will keep you in the powerband through the corners. As you enter the corner and ease off the gas, the clutch will backshift to slow you down, while staying engaged. As you get on the gas coming out of the corner, you have immediate accelleration.
 
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