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Discussion Starter #1
OK so my sled was burning out headlights so today I put A new voltage regulator on and A new bulb start it up two minutes later it got really bright and burnt out. its the right wattage and cheeked the wiring any ideas. Could I just bypass it to the battery use a switch and fuse?
 

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Here's a bump for ya... I was just about to post something similar on my '95 XLT. My headlight burnouts are coinciding with higher than normal idle speed, around 4,000. Just had my airbox out for gas filter change & tank pickup fix.

The voltage regulator is mounted just about the right side footrest, right? If that's it, mine had a little light on inside, I just noticed tonight..?
 

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Not bashing...is it wired correctly? Mine has a yellow wire that plugs in and two brown wires that have eyelits and go on the bolt to the inside. Just a thought...and scuff the back of it to get a good connection and do the wires too.
 

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ummm, when you're installing the new bulb, you aren't handling it with your bare fingers, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I know not to use bare fingers I used a cloth It burnt out two last year but I put on 1800 miles on it this year two already. Does anybody know A quick fix I need a light could I wire it straight to the battery with A fuse or regulator? We have a winter storm warning are getting 5 to 9 inches tonight\ tomorrow I will be out all day and night
 

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My headlight is torching the bulbs too. This is on a 95 XLT. the sled is perfect... the speedo and tach lights work fine. Just yesterday I put a new bulb in and within a minute and a half it was done. Inside the bulb the little element spring(s) were just laying in there. This sled does not have elec start hence there is not a battery. Any solid direction on a cause for this?... before I pay more $$ for the very brief light show?

Thanks!
 

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No, you can't hook it up to the battery, the electrical system on these sleds is AC... the only part that is DC is the electric start. That's why the lights only come on once the sled is running. I would start by checking the stator.
 

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Just speaking for myself here... I just mentioned that I don't have the elec start & battery so there is that much more that is out of the equation as for the electrical. Also, why don't the inst lights burn out along with the headlight?
One thing, I guess I have noticed that my inst lights get much brighter at times......just as my headlight did before blowing the low and then the high beams....?
 

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Originally posted by MnGuy
[br]Just speaking for myself here... I just mentioned that I don't have the elec start & battery so there is that much more that is out of the equation as for the electrical. Also, why don't the inst lights burn out along with the headlight?
One thing, I guess I have noticed that my inst lights get much brighter at times......just as my headlight did before blowing the low and then the high beams....?
I'm guessing your voltage regulator is the problem.
 

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I have a schematic of the xlt if that would help I could scan it in to the pc and post it....but I think its the stator.if you have a meter put it on amps and put your meter in series and see what kind of current you are drawing.theres also a trouble shooting section I could post .wont be able to do it till after 6pm.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well I will barrow a meter from tech tomorrow do you know how many amps it should draw? I think it should be about 3.
 

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Originally posted by 97xlt600
[br]Well I will barrow a meter from tech tomorrow do you know how many amps it should draw? I think it should be about 3.
I will have to consult the repair bible and get back to you
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok thanks.
 

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Too much amperage won't toast a bulb. Unless your running your whole electrical system in a series with your bulb first in line. Which you aren't, or shouldn't be. It would be a pain and nothing would work. IE your car battery has what, 600 Cold Cranking amps? You can put a tiny dome light right onto the batter and it won't blow it. That's becuase the bulb only uses what it needs. I'm telling you, your problem is voltage. Unless you're thinking you put too small of a voltage regulator in, and toasted it right away from too many amps passing through it. But again, just check the voltage to find out if it's even wired right. Make sure the regulator has a good ground - that's where it dissipates the extra - into heat (that's why there's a heat sink on it) and into the chassis ground.

You know those long-life bulbs they make for your house? They're rated between 130-140 volts. Your house varies between 110-120 (well it's supposed to). The lower voltage keeps the filament lasting longer. Anyways, no need to get anything fancy for a meter. A cheapo $10 will let you know where you are.

Bryan
 

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I have the info and will type it in word for word:
1 disconnect the alternator to main harness connector at engine
2 connect red lead of meter to yellow alternator wire and other lead to brown wire
3 start engine. while observing the voltage reading,increase the engine speed to about 3000 rpm.readings between 15 and 45 vac are considered normal
(this is unregulated voltage test)



regulated voltage test

1 reconnect the alternator to main wire harness.
2 same as step 2 above...except run black lead of meter to chassis ground.note:do not disconnect the regulator.take reading at the regulator.red lead to yellow.
3 start the engine.while observing the voltage reading,increase the engine speed to about 3000rpm.an acceptable reading will be between 10 and 15vac.


voltages lower than 10vac may indicate an excessive load,poor flywheel magnets,lighting coil problems,wiring problems or bad voltage regulator. higher than 15 vac indicate a voltage regulator problem or a poor ground at the regulator heat sink.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I got the meter today but I just got back from work and its late so I will do the test tomarrow.
Last night I saw a light glowing in the voltage regalater is that normal? And is a sled in AC or DC? thanks
 
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