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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought a new mxz 800 rer, and cannot get it to hook up at all. It has 144 extreme max 1.15" SS studs. What is a good starting point as far as the suspension set up goes. It is set up pretty tight right now, front springs are at 7, front skid spring at 6, and rear springs at 4. Any input appreciated. Also, if anyone has a mxz800, how much of a power difference did you feel after the 10hr break in period. Thanks
 

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i have a 01 mxzx800 and it works really good. you need to explain you problem some more, is it a problem with spinngin the track or a problem in th e turns, one thing it sound like the springs are all set to full, that may be the problem
 

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what size are the lugs on the track? You may not have long enough studs so only the tips are grabbing and they are just ripping stuff up and not promoting traction. I am guessing you have a 1" lug which I wouldn't recommend less than a 1.25" stud.
 

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loosen the limiter straps a little, try that, move them a little more, try that. also there is some sort of coupling in the rear, if it blocks move the blocks to the furthest back position. the rear blocks that is. you could also lower your engagement rpm.
 

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What kind of clutching is done to the sled? Is it stock?

As far as the burn in, you can feel it when it does. It will start to pull alot better on the top end.
 

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I am with MG on this one. Start with the easy stuff before messing with limiter straps and coupling blocks. Just soften up the rear shocks and see if you can get a better weight transfer. I'm not saying you might not have to do the other things, just do one thing at a time and see what works. The guys are right too we need more info, like what do you mean by not hooking up, how much do you weigh, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It will not hook up from a standstill. I weight 205 lbs. The front limiter is in the 2nd to last hole meaning it can only go one hole longer. I dont want to mess with this, as i dont want gobs of ski lift. I cant even hook up while already moving, at about 20mph if i let off and then nail it it spins like crazy. I do have a 1 inch track, 1.15 stud lenght was recomended by rich motorsports due to tunnel clearance issuses. The sled is completely stock. Thanks for the input.
 

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yeah I can get tunnel clearance issues. Like I said I always recommend .25" larger than your lug size so that could be affecting your hooking. Probably not your main problem though.
 

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what are you riding on when you have this problem, and you should have tunnel clearence problem it you have the correct studs in, you can put a 1.75 track in with out a problem i think you can even put a 2 in you barely have any studd penetration, and about your ski lift, you can't really set it up to lift the skies. i think a lot of you problem is the suspension, or you gearing is to low
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There is no way you could even put a 1 1/2 track on this sled. I have maybe 1/2" clearance from the track to the heat exchanger. As far as ski lift goes, i know it will life the skis, and thats fine, i just dont want it standing on the rear bumper. Im looking for a compromise between the two i guess. All im asking is where to start as far as the suspension settings go. I know the SC 10 III is a very tunable suspension, i know how to tune it, and the basics. Just need some input as far as a starting point goes. Thanks
 

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i know you can fit a 1.75 track in there and if you are worried about studs hitting you should install protectors on the front heat exchanger and the tunnel one and drop the rear suspension to the next hole
 

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Whats better, a tight track or a more loose one. Mine is studded but still spins alot if u gun it at say 40km/h. Any help with this? Not sure of lug size or stud size yet. Was already studded when i bought it.
 

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There are severl areas on these sleds that can adress traction. First, try the susp. settings. Move the weight transfer adjuster to full transfer mode.

Try messing with the susp. settings such as spring tension.

As far as the limiter goes, you can be to short on the limiter, take it out a notch and try that again.

Beyond that, you can switch to a 130/260 spring, that will lower the engagement.
 

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I think a properly adjusted track is better. If your track is new set it tight but within spec. If it's broken in set it in spec where you want it.
 

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i have a similiar problem on mine 2002 mxz600 the sus works great and is dialed in pretty good but it seems to have alot of power and spins the track if u give er hell but not to bad but i am gettin some studs and then it will bite good and hold on then cause she screams
 
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