Help!! I have an Arctic Cat JAG ('91) that was running like a champ 3 days ago but today when I started her, she would only idle and when the throttle was pressed she would bogg down like the engine was flooding, or possibly there is water in the fuel. The thing is it's the same tank of gas as I ran off of 3 days ago. I'm pretty sure my carb is clean. My plugs were black indicating the fuel is not burning fully. How can she go from marathon runner to slug from sitting?
Help JAG wont stay running
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did you check the carb bowl ( usually white color ) ?
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Your plugs will always be black if it ran at idle. The 2 ways to check them are: 1. run WOT for 1/2-1 mile 2. run at fairly high rpm's for 30-45 seconds. Then kill it and pull the plugs as fast as you can.
Try putting new plugs in, you could have just fouled them. Thats the easiest place to start. If not that, go through the carb. Dump a can of Seafoam and/or drain the gas and put fresh stuff in if all else fails.
*edit* - For future reference, you will probably get more "experts" if you name your topic with more detail then just "Help!!."
Try putting new plugs in, you could have just fouled them. Thats the easiest place to start. If not that, go through the carb. Dump a can of Seafoam and/or drain the gas and put fresh stuff in if all else fails.
*edit* - For future reference, you will probably get more "experts" if you name your topic with more detail then just "Help!!."
Thankx for the input everyone.
Yes the fuel filter is clean
I drained the carb, no goo and the gas looked good?
It will not run fast or hot enough to get an accurate plug reading.
I start it, it idles good, but when I go to take off it boggs down and dies within 10 feet or less.
Thankx again for everyones input.
Also I cleaned the plugs to damn near shinny new more than once.
They are less than a week old (the plugs)
Yes the fuel filter is clean
I drained the carb, no goo and the gas looked good?
It will not run fast or hot enough to get an accurate plug reading.
I start it, it idles good, but when I go to take off it boggs down and dies within 10 feet or less.
Thankx again for everyones input.
Also I cleaned the plugs to damn near shinny new more than once.
They are less than a week old (the plugs)
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15,519 Posts
1. Change your topic title to "Jag won't stay running" and get more replys from people like me looking to help
2. It sounds your engine is not getting enough fuel.
3. You may have a stuck float also?
2. It sounds your engine is not getting enough fuel.
3. You may have a stuck float also?
Still won't stay running
I have good spark, and the track is free, i can drive it forward sporadically in bursts but it still boggs past quarter throttle.
I think it may be originating from the carb so my next project is to dismantle above named and throughly clean, i like the needle, i mean float (yes im kinda a newbie) stuck reply, it sounds pretty accurate
Thankx again.
I have good spark, and the track is free, i can drive it forward sporadically in bursts but it still boggs past quarter throttle.
I think it may be originating from the carb so my next project is to dismantle above named and throughly clean, i like the needle, i mean float (yes im kinda a newbie) stuck reply, it sounds pretty accurate
Thankx again.
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15,519 Posts
I believe a stuck float could deliver too much gas to your motor.
Either way I am putting my money on its a carb problem. I once had to disassembly my ZRT carbs 3 times!.. finally got it right and it ran like a champ
Either way I am putting my money on its a carb problem. I once had to disassembly my ZRT carbs 3 times!.. finally got it right and it ran like a champ
It's more than likely the throttle saftey switch has failed. to check, bypass the throttle safty switch. Follow the wires that come from the throttle lever to the the connector near the steering post. The tool kit should have a bypass plug included. Plug it into the harness. If you don't have the plug, just use a piece of wire to jump the circut. Then see if it will idle. If it does,the switch assembly should be replaced. The sled will run fine with the switch bypassed, however it is not recommended to ride the sled with the switch bypassed. The reason is if the throttle sticks open, the automatic shutdown system will not work and you could loose control of the sled.
Success!!!!
Well it turns out that the only problem was an exposed wire the previous owner did not properly insulate. Which explains why she would start and vibrate a little but on take-off the vibrations would increase, shaking the exposed wire against the frame and shorting her out.
It goes to show (in my experience) that the biggest problems are usually fixed with the simplest solution.
Well I have endless logging roads, muskegs, and mountain-sides with a foot of FRESH powder to carve up. Let it snow!!
]
Well it turns out that the only problem was an exposed wire the previous owner did not properly insulate. Which explains why she would start and vibrate a little but on take-off the vibrations would increase, shaking the exposed wire against the frame and shorting her out.
It goes to show (in my experience) that the biggest problems are usually fixed with the simplest solution.
Well I have endless logging roads, muskegs, and mountain-sides with a foot of FRESH powder to carve up. Let it snow!!![
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