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Discussion Starter #1
Need some help to set up my X10 the right way once and for all. It has the white Fox Shox that more than likely need to be rebuilt. So I'm 6'4" and go 230 to 240lbs. I love to ride hard and hit the big stuff. So I have the torsion springs set as hard as I can. I would guess that they are the normal duty ones. To start I think the heavy duty springs are in order for sure. Is the stealer-ship the only place to get them? How much for a pair and how with I tell by looking at them they are the big boys? The front shock spring looks to be set a liitle on the soft side, how do I adjust it? I have the wrenches from a '96 Ski-Doo MXZ. I don't think that cranking up that shock would help much because it bottoms out on the small stuff way too easy. Is there anything I can do or try before pulling the skid and shox? Would I need to have the shox rebuilt and then re-valved for my wieght and riding style? The final question how much should I expect to pay for both rear shox to be rebuild and re-valved? They are both in good shape. I need to fix this once and for all so sick of bottoming I would rather just not ride...[:0]
 

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Originally posted by RED_XCR_440
[br]Need some help to set up my X10 the right way once and for all. It has the white Fox Shox that more than likely need to be rebuilt. So I'm 6'4" and go 230 to 240lbs. I love to ride hard and hit the big stuff. So I have the torsion springs set as hard as I can. I would guess that they are the normal duty ones. To start I think the heavy duty springs are in order for sure. Is the stealer-ship the only place to get them? How much for a pair and how with I tell by looking at them they are the big boys? The front shock spring looks to be set a liitle on the soft side, how do I adjust it? I have the wrenches from a '96 Ski-Doo MXZ. I don't think that cranking up that shock would help much because it bottoms out on the small stuff way too easy. Is there anything I can do or try before pulling the skid and shox? Would I need to have the shox rebuilt and then re-valved for my wieght and riding style? The final question how much should I expect to pay for both rear shox to be rebuild and re-valved? They are both in good shape. I need to fix this once and for all so sick of bottoming I would rather just not ride...[:0]
I know local shops in my area charge 35$ per shock for just a recharge, around 60$ for rebuild n recharge depending on the internals. They can revalve it for your weight, i think you can also get stiffer springs for larger guys.
These places specialize in shocks
http://www.fettbrosperformance.com/ or http://www.carverperformance.com/
 

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You weigh about the same amount I do, so I would STRONGLY recommend you get the heavy duty springs, they do make a difference. They were about 60 bucks per side at the dealer I go to, some of the others in the area charged up to 73 bucks per side. As far as I know, yes, they are a dealer only part, and even then, you will need to give them a part number. For whatever reason, it is not listed in the parts manual. You can tell that they are the big springs with a dial caliper or vernier caliper by measuring their diameter. They should be 0.438 inch diameter springs. Stock springs are either .407 in. or .421 in.

Adjusting the front torque arm spring depends on the sled. If it is an XCR or an XC or XC SP you can turn the nifty adjustment collar. However, if you have a standard Indy sled for trail use, it will require shims placed under the spring. A word of warning for you: DO NOT PUT A VERY THICK SHIM IN THERE!!!! If you tighten it up any large amount, it is very likely you will destroy the rear suspension and your spine when you hit a huge bump. Your rear suspension arm borrows spring pressure from that front spring when it needs it. If you tighten it too much, you will find that when you stand on the rear bumper it will move until it hits the coupler blocks and will stop dead. This is because the mechanical advantage is too much for the rear of the suspension to overcome, so you will be riding with 5 inches of suspension instead of 10.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Chadd, thanks for the tips! I dont know what the X10 is out of. I got it from a buddys trashed '90 650 that it was transplated in and now is a transplant into my sled. The front rear shock looks threaded so it can be adjusted by spining up the collar right? The shocks seem to be good so maybe I should start out with the big boy springs. How can I tell what year the X10 is? Also do you have the part number? Thanks for your help! I just cant take another year of a chity ride!
 

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Deycore just rebuilt 4 shocks for me 38 plus parts for PPS2 shock and 27.50 plus parts for ryde fx shocks and 15.00 to revalve the pps2 shock a bit stiffer. They were vrey reasonable and very fast.


www.deycore.com
 

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You need to get sit in correct to start. 1-2 inches at the back edge of the tunnel. If you can't get that from the cam adjusters check the springs rollers on the long end of the spring and make sure they don't have flat spots. If those are fine then either the original springs are shot or to light and you need to go up a size. This was from a resent swap and you should do a shock service with no other changes to the shocks other than to get the springs right and see what you have before making a bunch of changes to valving. There is a good chance the shocks have never been rebuilt or in a long time as the majority of rebuildable shocks are not rebuilt when they should be. Don't mess with the front skid spring at first this is more for handling then ride and actually stiffer than my liking. (200 pound spring). All of this info is based on the fact that the skid is mounted correct related to center to center and attitude toward drive shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The skid is mounted 100% correctly. I still had the old chassis that it was in and at the time had a '96 XCR to compare the two. Im sure the shox do need a re-charge and the springs are too light. My bud was a little dude so that why he never had a problem with it. But how do I know that the shox are indeed bad? The rear moves correctly and rebound perfectly too.
 

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You can tell when the shocks are really bad by removing them and pushing them in and pulling them out by hand. If it pulls really easy in one direction when compared to another, makes squishing noises, leaks any amount of oil, or alternates between easy and hard, they are in definite need of service. Otherwise, the subtle wear that occurs is pretty difficult to notice. As to what year your XTRA-10 is, that can be difficult. If it is 1997 or later it will have two available holes for the RRSS (the black rectagonal block between the rear idler and the rear suspension arm) and it will have two positions available for the front track shock (one in front of the tube that you use to bolt it into the sled and one behind). There were other subtle changes as well over the years, but I can't really remember them off hand. Easiest way would be to look up part numbers and compare them over the years to see which match up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
But as long as I get springs with .438 diameter or bigger I should be good them right? They are round not the square.
 

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round springs indicates an older skid. You can not really tell that a shock is good. If it has been over 2 years and any kind of miles it is not good. Again your springs could be sacked but since you are over 220 I would probably go with the heavy springs. What is your sit in? Did you check the rollers?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
All looks good. Must just need new springs and shock re-charge. The guys at the dealer were dicks about the springs. I dont know the year the X10 is out of or the sled so they said the bigger springs are $79.99 ea. what a joke!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I might have found a pair for $25 from a reliable source around my area. That sure beats the $79 ea. BS. So with the HD's and a shock freshen up I should be able to air it out alittle more in comfort...
 

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when peaple buy springs from my dad they dont need to know the year. what he asks is if there round, square and if they dont know the year to bring the springs in. there is a couple different angle in the springs. i didnt know that until i looked at some laying at home. he can then look in the polaris book to find the correct part number and then go from there. hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK so bottom line is this: get BOTH rear Fox Shox re-charged and get the big boy HD torsion springs and then my bottoming troubles are no more right?
 

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the nearest I can tell you never answer the question on your sit in so who knows what the ride will be like. If you already have 1 inch of sit in and it bottoms then it is the shocks. If it has 3-4 inches the nyou probably need the shocks rebuilt and the springs. For $25 are your springs new polaris springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If by sit in you mean the amount of in. it squats when I sit on it then I think it does more than only an in. or two...
 

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Originally posted by jbshocks
[br]if your $25 springs are used or after market you are wasting your time and money
Yep, jbshocks has it right with this one. If they are used, they are worthless. Very few people jack the entire sled up all year, so after several years of sitting, they are permanantly deformed and will begin to lose spring tension. Some of the cheap aftermarket springs are brittle and tend to break easily. When one of those springs gets pulled through a track, believe me, it is NOT pretty. Your sled looks like a 93 or 94 XCR, which wouldn't have come with XTRA-10 originally. Are you sure the mounting holes are correct? If they were a little off, it is possible that this would cause the weight transfer to be off. Just a few more possibilities.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The sled is a '92 XCR. The mount holes are dead on. I had a '96 XCR to compare to and the chassis the X 10 came out of. Plus I also referred to many sites about the swap. I think the springs are used. I always jack the rear up on my sleds. I will keep you all posted still have to pull the skid yet so may be awhile...
 
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