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Discussion Starter #1
ok my first post here well i got my sled to start the pump does work i narrowed it to the injectors and they are getting juice all the time and they are not pluged they arent letting the gas go in the holes it will start with putting gas down the plug holes but as soon as it is out of the gas it will die i was thinking could it be the relays or the efi box. and another? is this sled has a 144" track under it if i had pics i would show you guys i thought it looked weird when i picked it up but any other info on this sled would be great. also would it be cheaper to put carbs on it and get rid of the efi. again any help would be great. thanks for reading. nick
 

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your post is kinda vauge, unless i am not following it. i think youre gonna have to post with more info on what youve checked, and so on and so forth, the more info you can give, the more help you will get. dont worry about the post being forever and a day long, you will find out that too much info is a good thing around here. welcome to the forum, and we look forward to helping you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sry about that iam not good at writing stuff out so i have checked everything out on the sled and the injectors dont work could it be the relays or the efi brain? or would it be worth getting carbs off of a xlt or around that nature. so far i like this site alot. nick
 

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Is there any codes as in lights on the efi box. If there is this will lead you in the right direction. Make SURE that the battery is fully charged as well, as it is the life blood of the old RXL"s.
This may sound stupid but when trouble shooting start with the easy stuff first. Is the fuel filter plugged? Those old RXL"s have two of them for some reason. One is a small plastic one and the other is a larger steel one i think. Hope this helps . Love to here those old triples run even if there not my own!! [8D]

This sounds like a fuel problem no matter which way you want to look at it.Especally if the fire on the plugs is bright blue.[?]
Also herd a problem of fuel lines deteriorated in the fuel tank.
This could be a fuel pressure regulator problem as well.The pressure should be at a constant 36 PSI. There is a vacuum hose conected to the throttle bore that may be faulty as well. Best of luck. If all else fails triple 650 knowes a s**t load about these fuelies,maybe he could lend a hand as well. [:)]
 

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I used to have to buy a battery a year for my old RXL. Mine was a 1992 and the worst sled I ever owned. That is saying alot cause I had a 1989 Wildcat that vibrated itself to pieces at idle, and got stuck every 5 feet.
 

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Okay, first of all check your throttle. There are two idle switches that tell the computer if the engine should be idling or revving. It could be that the on idle switch is either faulty or the throttle isn't hitting it.

Definatly check your fuel lines and fuel filter. You can pick a new metal one up at the auto parts store, and fuel line also. Also check the return lines and the pressure regulator.

To check the regulator, you'll need a pressure gauge, connect a hand operated pump and connect it to the to the regulator vacum hose. run the engine and the pump.

It could be a clogged fuel filter, they tend to get clogged over time so that should be the first place you check.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok guys thanks for the input that makes it easy to get to some of the stuff first off well its getting fuel presure not sure how much but where is the fuel pressure regulator located at? a friend and i took the injectors out had them hooked to the fuel rail and turned it on and they didnt spray i figured they would have did i say that i was not any good on efi or wiring. we hooked it up straight to a battery as well as everything hooked up also and also how can you tell if your box gives any codes? not sure it was supposed to. if was a carbed sled it would have been running already. thanks guys for the input and any more is appreciated. nick
 

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Hmmm, well to answer your first question there should be a small LED on the mag side of the ECU. It will throw codes when the ignition is on. The LED will be lit for longer for the first digit and shorter for the second digit.

Trouble Shooting Codes:
11. is the throttle position sensor
12. is the crankcase temp sensor
13. is the intake air temp. sensor
*14. is the atmospheric pressure sensor (rxl only)
14. is he water temp sensor
15. is the atmospheric pressure sensor
21. is the flywheel side injector
22. is the center injector (3-cyl)
22. is the Pto side injector (2-cly)
*23. is the Pto side injector (rxl)
31. is low battery voltage
32. is low charging system output
33. is CDI output

(*Note 31, 32, 33 are not used on the RXL.)
(* indicates that this codes is only used on the RXL Model)

Also, check the White/black wire going from the CDI to the ECU, it should run down near the steel fuel filter. There is a connection down there that goes from white/black to just black. Sort of important.

If you have a DMM or Digital Multimeter, test the resistance of the injectors when they are disconnected. They should be about 11-16 Ohms. If these appear to be good I'd be tracing the wiring back looking for bad connections, and shorts. There should be a drop ressitor in there as well, you may want to look at that if you coan't find anything else.

Also you asked about the relays, there are three obviously. One is to power the ECU, one powers the fuel pump, and the other is the self shut off relay. I believe brown is power for the ECU. The relays could affect the operation, but if the fuel pump goes chances are the two important ones are working. The reason I say that is because the ECU powers up and then sends a signal to close the fuel pump relay and turn on the pump. My question is you do hear the fuel pump running, should hum, after the sleds been sitting for a while without an attempt to start right? If not you may want to look at that those relays.

One more thing I'm going to tell you, I'd be checking the crankcase temp sensor. Check and see if it's hooked up. On the RXL there are three relays, and one is a self shutoff relay, that is completely dependent on this sensor. The motor will start but quickly die off after hitting about 1000 RPM.

One more thing, if you are getting pressure in the fuel rail the fuel filters should be fine.

Here's a helpful tool for you. This is the wiring diagram off a 1991 RXL. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
[galleryattach=5068]
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok thats alot of info thanks well first off where is the light? is it on the efi box by the all the wires going in to it? if so that is not coming on. it looks like a light in it but i cant tell. i will keep looking at the diagram. thank you for you guys input. nick
 

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When you first turn the key and hit the run/stop switch into the run position, do you hear the fuel pump hum for a few seconds? Also, I know it's been asked, but you didn't really answer, is your battery fully charged? Also, also, don't put direct battery voltage to ANY part of that sled. A little known fact, unlike cars, the electrical system on these sleds is mostly AC not DC and you will do plenty of damage if you try to bypass parts of the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
i didnt know that about the sleds i thought they where the same as cars. the sled does have a wiring problem iam figuring out real fast though almost to the point of tearing everything apart and rewiring it my friend he is good at wiring. he said he would help me get it going. but we need help with it thats why i asked for your guys help. again thanks for the help. nick
 

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Lots of good points to follow up on. I remember having a hard time getting pump to prime on one that was run dry.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ok since nothing on the sled works on this thing i figure go carbed it will run it will cost less to carb it then get the efi working right. so i do apprreciate all the help now since iam going that rout will that motor accept that and what about the wiring?? like i say iam not good with wiring. thanks for reading. nick
 

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http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=57558

Here, I just went through this with this guy. Take a look.

I suggest though that you find a minimun carb size of 38mm, in fact 44's would be ideal. The XLT's ran mainly 34's and this is much too small for this motor. The ports in the RXL's are huge compared to the xlt's.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cool thanks man you are making this awesome. i do appreciate the help you are giving. nick
 

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Just a thought, there are two switches in your throttle block to prevent a runaway sled condition. Those go bad all the time, you can disconnect them and try starting it. If it starts, then you found your problem, and you just saved yourself the headache of doing a carb swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the light like you where talking about does not come on so i figured just take the efi off of it what with the antifreeze being hooked up to the fuel rail? did they make a set of 46mm carbs i found a set at als snowmobile for 175 for all three carbs or they got a set of 38mm carbs for 100. let me know which ones you would buy. nick
 

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Plug the holes or attach the lines on the coolant rail.

I would get the 46mm to be honest. You'll have less issues trying to find a carb boot.
 
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