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i have a 97 storm800 i have hot seat performance clutch kit v force reeds i cant get the thing to hook up i spin treches i just bought a one inch track for it and a m10 what else can i do i hhave 144 slitly worn picks any help would be great also has anyone installed m10 on storm how much work is it and did it help the ride
 

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part of your problem is the suspension the m-10 was realy never designed to transfer weight very well there for does not transfer much weight on the track needed to hook up. One option is to gear the sled up a little to get more top end less bottem end. Second try a bigger lug track 1 1/4. depending on riding more studs would realy help if you ride on hard pack trail, if deep snow scratch the studs and go 1 1/2 track. For the suspension i snow crossed for 3 years with the m-10 with ohlins clicker shocks easy to install hooked up alright with 1 1/4 track with 144 picks and chisels on a 440 xcr, time consuming but easy, mount rails are i believe 200.00 if you don't have them already. The ride will be incredibly better hands down,but like I said it will never hook up as good as your stock.
 

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The problem is they are too freakin powerfull!!!! Seriously though, I'm having the same problem... like 500 feet to hook up when I pin it! I just ordered 192 studs for my stock 1" track and tommorow I'm going to start adjusting the suspension to get maximum weight transfer and track pressure (I think the previos owner had it set up for a plush ride). I have the xtra 10, I doubt adjusting that is similar to adjusting an m10 but I can let you know what I find anyway... good luck!
 

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your prob the m-10. i have one in my xcr 440 and all it does is spin, it spun so much it bent the studs over and ripped the lugs of the track and there were only 900 miles on it. so i put a 1.25 under it. helped alot but still spins like crazy. u also have a lot of power but i think the m-10 is the biggest prob
 

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one other problem with the m-10 is there is less track on the ground compared to the stock suspension. Less surface area means less traction, other than that the suspension is one hell! of a trail and ditch banging suspension. One other thing keep and eye on the teflon coupler blocks in the back for wear.
 

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Yup, the m10 is the problem. Your front suspension is a mismatch for it. The storm was always very nose heavy. Putting the m10 in just made it worse. Best advise is rebuild the original skid and put it back in.
 

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if you read his post, i do not believe he has the m-10 in the sled yet. he asks how hard it is to install. could be wrong just the way i read the post
 

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On the xtra 10, two main things will effect weight transfer to the track, they are the front limiter strap length and the RRSS block postiong (RRSS= rear rear scissor stop). The longer the front limiter strap, the more weight is transfered to the track on acceleration. The RRSS determines the amount that the back of the suspension will "collapse" durring acceleration. This "collapse" pivots the front of the machine up and so the weight of the sled is transfered to the track. The front limiter straps are important because they determines how much the front of the rear suspension will drop down when the front of the sled is lifted up. If the strap length is to short, when the sled pivots under acceleration the front of the rear suspenstion will actually lift up and less track will be touching the ground. The front limiter straps on the xtra 10 are adjusted by turning the nuts on the end of the long eye bolts that attache to the straps. Turn the nuts counter clockwise to lengthen the strap length. There are 2 straps, adjust them both the same. The RRSS blocks have 3 positions and on 97's there are 2 holes available to mount the RRSS blocks (so there are 6 available settings). You can actually take the RRSS blocks out all together but it greatly compromises the ride. The blocks have a dot on them. The dot facing front of sled is the high position (least weight transfer), dot facing rear of sled is middle, dot facing up or down is low (most weight transfer). The more distance between the scissor and the block means the more the weight is transfered to the track. Move the block to the rear mounting hole to get even more weight transfer.

Start with the front limiter strap. If it get to the point where the skis are lifting off the ground, you've adjusted far enough. Once the skis are in the air, 100% of the weight is on the track! If you have no ski lift and still have bad hook up after adjusting the limiter strap, move on to the RRSS blocks. Obviosly, adjust both block the same. Also, don't tighten them extremely tight. You want them to rotate a bit the first couple of times the scisor hits them so they will be flush with it. Moving the RRSS blocks will probably lower your rear ride height (when loaded), so you may need to adjust your spring preloads. Adjust the preload so the sled drops 1 1/2" when you get on.

Check and adjust the track tension after you adjust the limiter straps.
 
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