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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a 1993 Exciter II. It had been sitting for 2 years w/o stabilized fuel in it. I took the carbs all apart, nearly died of acetone inhalation cleaning them, and put it all back together. Started right up. [:D] Problem is 2 fold. Neither is related to the other, but maybe we can kill 2 birds with one stone here. First, when I got it, It wouldn't run very well at all. took 20 minutes to start it, ran off 1 cyl. @ a max of 4-5000 rpm's... Now it runs alot better, but when I put it to the bar from an idle, or even put it back to the bar after letting off a little, it bogs almost to the point of stalling. So far I've been able to determine it's severity depends on how cold it is. If it's 2 deg. F out, it's bad. If it's 20 out, it not so bad. I know the carbs are clean. I spent all day on them and a gallon of acetone[xx(] on them! There was a scratch in one of the slides, but I doubt that has anything to do with it... I don't have a carb sync tool and could only tune the idles by hand and the air jet to factory specs. I plan on getting a tool this week to check vacuum and see if the idles are set right, but is there anything else that can cause this? The plugs are new and gapped correctly, they spark like crazy, gas is new? Anyone have any ideas?

Secondly, The belt is new and last night was the first time I took the sled out of the yard. I ran it down the side of the road to a field to give it a real run and it took off like a rocket. no problems. once I jumped over the snow into the field the sled started to slow down but the engine didn't. It was at something like 7000 rpm's and the sled would have eventually come to a complete stop... engine still screaming. The belt started to smoke so I let off to see what was going on. It was dark, I was not properly dressed, the engine was bogging pretty bad and the engine compartment was full of somke so I couldn't see what was wrong. I pushed on the gas again and it took off, after a feww seconds of hammering on it, maybe less, it started slowing down again and I almost couldn't get it back over the hill to get on the road. Once on the road I tried to investigate again but couldn't see anything becuase of the belt guard. Ran it home pushing it wide open a couple times (home is maybe 2 10ths of a mile) and it took off like a rocket. The only time i've ever seen this problem was when I took it in the field last night. Like I said, this is the first time this sled has left my yard but even in the yard (fairly small) I could still pound on it for a second or so. I was thinking maybe snow was getting up in the clutches, melting causing it to slip... Maybe the secondary clutch was opening and not closing quickly enough when I let off the gas... Maybe the primary is slipping? Any ideas? Anyone ever seen this on their sled before? [?][?][?] Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank everyone,

Scott.
 

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Well for the first problem... Could it have something to do with you jetting? Does sound like when you pin it, it gives so much gas to the point that it stalls it. Or that it may be lack of fuel?

I'm not sure about the second one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by SledHead
[br]Well for the first problem... Could it have something to do with you jetting? Does sound like when you pin it, it gives so much gas to the point that it stalls it. Or that it may be lack of fuel?

I'm not sure about the second one...
Well, I can just about feather it from an idle and it's hard to get the rpm's up. I was reading some other people's posts rearding idle speed and I keep mine LOW. I set it around 750-1000 --- I guess I'm thinking in 4 stoke world.. People are saying 2000-2500.. that may be my problem right there. I'll try bring the idle WAY up to 2250 (right in the middle) tonight. We'll see if that makes a difference. This is my first sled that was worth a damn (and not much of one at that, but hey, it's something) and the only other 2 cycle engines I've had were dirt bikes (years ago) and they didn't have tach's so I didn't know WHERE the idle was![:D] But to give an affirmative answer to your question, it doesn't matter how much or how little gas I give the engine off an idle, it's still tough to get it to climb on the rpm's. once it starts to climb (after either feathering it or hammering it) it climbs like a champ right to top.
 

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Yeah, you want your idle right around 2000 rpm for that sled. Try that first and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Originally posted by Tfin70
[br]Yeah, you want your idle right around 2000 rpm for that sled. Try that first and see what happens.
Well, I turned the idle up last night. When I let off the throttle it drops to 3000 then floats down to about 2500. I suspect it's a little high, but I'll adjust that once I get sync guages. It doesn't bog nearly as mmuch as it did the other night.

I took it out again last night and dI had the same problem with the clutches. They just don't seem to be working right (read original post). A friend of mine told me to clean the clutchs out with brake cleaner. The weights may be sticking in the front? The rear one doesn't have weights so I dont know what to do with that. Since it's a systems that relies on friction, I'm guessing I should not "Grease" the clutches? I'll try the brake cleaner tonight. The carbs still seem to bog just a little. The engine just does not have that instant throttle response it should. Probably just a little fine tuning of the air jet. Anyone have any ideas on this clutch problem?
 

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Yup, clean and sync the carbs. Clean all jets, make sure idle, chokes, and throttle cables are adjusted to spec.

DO NOT GREASE CLUTCHES. Clean them with a rag, or some of that dry cleaning stuff (brake cleaner) that you can wipe off. Spring in the primary may be worn and needs to be replaced. Rollers, bushings, arms, etc may also be worn and sticking.

Spring may be worn in secondary. Buttons may need to be replaced, clean as well. Make sure both clutches are in proper alignment.

Also you might want to try a Yamaha belt. We bought a Daco Ultra Max belt for my father's 1990 Exciter, and even though it was the correct one, it was too tight. Clutches would engage as soon as the engine was started. Put a sled specific Yamaha belt on and problem was solved.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Originally posted by Tfin70
[br]Yup, clean and sync the carbs. Clean all jets, make sure idle, chokes, and throttle cables are adjusted to spec.

DO NOT GREASE CLUTCHES. Clean them with a rag, or some of that dry cleaning stuff (brake cleaner) that you can wipe off. Spring in the primary may be worn and needs to be replaced. Rollers, bushings, arms, etc may also be worn and sticking.

Spring may be worn in secondary. Buttons may need to be replaced, clean as well. Make sure both clutches are in proper alignment.

Also you might want to try a Yamaha belt. We bought a Daco Ultra Max belt for my father's 1990 Exciter, and even though it was the correct one, it was too tight. Clutches would engage as soon as the engine was started. Put a sled specific Yamaha belt on and problem was solved.
So it's probably safe to say it's a good idea to rebuild the clutches anyway. How much does a rebuild kit cost for primary and secondary clutches? $100.00? Maybe I'm crazy in thinking parts are that cheap... How do I check the tension of the springs to assure they are not worn? How do I check the other clutch parts you spoke of to make sure they are still within manufacturers specs? I dont see this as being something simple though [V]. I'll try the brake cleaner tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully I'll see some results and won't need to dig deeper. I purchased the service manual so I'll go through that as well as far as digging apart the clutches is concerned.

Thanks again,

Scott.
 

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The only way to check the springs in the primary and secondary (other than seeing they're not broken) is to use the spring pressure gage. Other's recomend that they be replaced every 2500 miles, regardless.

If you took the primary entirely apart, you need to look for wear spots and/or slop (loose pieces) on the arms, bushings, rollers etc.

In the secondary, other than replacing the spring, the only other things you'd need to replace due to wear are the buttons that slide up and down on the ramps of the helix.

Complete rebuild kits for both primary and secondary clutches should be a little over $100, but not much over. This doesn't include the springs though. These usually run between $15 and $20 each. You can order rebuild kits from any reputable aftermarket manufacturor's catalogue.
 

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I used to have a 93 exciter. Since you only had the clutch prob running across the field here my guess. we used to have the same problem, it was a little snow getting in from the vent directly in front of the primary. The 93 had plates that were adjustable. you can slide them down to block any snow from entering when you want to play in the snow. Cured the problem. It also needed the clutches to be rebuilt, it kept chewing up the belts.
 
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