Snowmobile Fanatics banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Just wondering if anybody has changed their factory headlight bulbs with any sort of highoutput bulb. I am looking for some, but not sure what to get. I am not looking to spend $150 (canadian) for the PIAA's. Anybody have any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
You can pick up a Xeon boosted bulb for around $20 US. They're suppose to be 30% brighter than the standard halogen. I'm getting one for my sled. Stock bulb is 60/55 watts, the new one is 100/80 watts. Should make a nice improvement.

Now I'm not talking one of those fake HID blue bulbs. Just a super bright white Xeon boosted one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Will going to a higher wattage buld blow any cicuits on your sled. I put a 80-100w on my 94safari last year(from a 60-55w) and not long after my voltage regulator was fried. Could there be a connection? If its safe, I would definatly go back to the 80-100w since i ride alot at night and it seemed a little brighter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,108 Posts
no. Your voltage regulator basically dissapates whatever wattage your stator produces that isn't used by your electrical stuff. The more electrical stuff you have pulling watts from your stator, the less it has to dissapate itself.

-Dean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
hmmm always saw it the other way. I a;so have the need for better lights.
Your stator has to be capable of pushing the wattage you want ie 200-280-300 watt output) Bigger bulbs (higher wattage), or assessories= more load. The more power( water) flowing thought your regulator ( the valve), the more heat it will have to disapate to meet your load. You certianly can overheat your regulator by pulling too much load. Your voltage will remain consatant,12-14 volts but it is the differance in current(a), or your wattage demand that will melt parts.

P=Vxi assume 12v constant, power consumed is your bulb.
100 watt bulb
100=12x? = 8.3 amps draw
60 watt bulb
60=12x? = =5amps
Here your regulator controlling 3 more amps, does'nt seem like much and some sleds might support it. Sombody came up with the load ratings, just be cautious.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Hmmmm, now you've got me thinking gbaronet. So basicly there's no way of telling if your regulator is going to handle the additional amps flowing through it? Even if it hold for a while, it kind of sounds like it would certainly shorten the life of the regulator.

Anyone else have any electical knowledge on this issue?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,108 Posts
DUDE!!! You guys have it backwards. V=IR remember? Your stator produces a fixed amount of wattage. Your regulator is a very simple smart FET that anytime the voltage gets over a certain point (about 14v), it will leak current to ground, thereby bleeding the extra wattage (that is unused) away. your voltage regulator only has one wire coming off it. HOW CAN all your power go through it? It doesn't. Only the unused power goes through it. See for yourself.

-Dean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,307 Posts
Originally posted by ripperd2
[br]DUDE!!! You guys have it backwards. V=IR remember? Your stator produces a fixed amount of wattage. Your regulator is a very simple smart FET that anytime the voltage gets over a certain point (about 14v), it will leak current to ground, thereby bleeding the extra wattage (that is unused) away. your voltage regulator only has one wire coming off it. HOW CAN all your power go through it? It doesn't. Only the unused power goes through it. See for yourself.

-Dean

Hey ripperd2, are you totally 100% sure on this? I'm not questioning your knowledge, I'm just asking to reassure myself.

Reason is, a friend of mine has one I want to put in my sled. I'm going on a week long snowmobile trip starting this Sat. So I'm looking to put this bulb in and go. I just don't want to be up north in the middle of no where, and something in my electrical system gets fried.

My old headlight bulb SUCKS compared to the new ones. I'm just looking for some added lighting.

Alright now......reassure me man! [;)]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I'm certainly no electronics wiz.
However this was my experience on my 94 Yamy V Max 600 LE.
I replaced the stock head & tail light bulbs with high output halogen bulbs. 100/90 for the head light and I can't remember what the tail light was. With the tail light bulb installed, every time I hit the brakes the head light would dim to the point of almost going out. Once I removed the tail light bulb, it would still dim considerably.
It was a real tradeoff, I liked the brighter light but it still dimmed when I hit the brakes which is usually when you needed your headlight to be it's brightest.
I guess what I'm saying is, before you buy brighter bulbs, find out if you can return it.
Good luck.
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,108 Posts
I'm not 100% sure. But i'm fairly confident.

For trailblazer: this means your stator doesn't have the wattage output to power all your stuff, that's why it dims. I bet if you turned off/on your handwarmers, you would also notice them get brigher/dimmer. Most sleds have around 200 watts total at nomal rpms, and maybe a 1/4 of that at idle.

-Dean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
Ripperd 2

I sold the sled a couple of years ago.
I think it only had a 140 watts output.
Yeah I only ran the warmers when I really needed it.
I don't have any of those problems with my current Doo.
Jeff
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
864 Posts
On a sled the one wire regulator does ring true. Voltage cap only? ,never looked at it that way (hense the name). No need to regulate resistance then with a FET? It really is a DC generator, and does'nt need to be regulated like a car's alternator stator is. That said if your generator can support the load... should be fine. Most new sleds are closer to 250-300 watts.
Ohms law is one way to figure it out as is.
http://www.eworld.contactbox.co.uk/calc/calcpow.htm.
My electronics may be rusty..hell been outta school for 16 years..
 
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
ripperd2 there are a few errors in your statement. The wattage from the stator does not stay constant. The system will only put out enough power to cover what is drawn from the components. A system of resistors is used to limit voltage. No current is transferred to the chassis. That would not be a good deal! All excess voltage is dropped over a resistor before the ground – that is why the regulators sometimes get hot. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
I had a high output light on my 91 plus when I got it and it melted the socket and wiring. My handwarmers hardly worked. I switched to a standard output Xenon and it works great. I don't know if it is brighter than a hologen, but it offers a cleaner light which makes it easire to see imperfections in the snow.

I would double check you output before going to a high output lamp.

I also run Xenon now in my Polaris and it works great. It also has a 280 watt output.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,108 Posts
Originally posted by Ski-Donkey Wizard
[br]ripperd2 there are a few errors in your statement. The wattage from the stator does not stay constant. The system will only put out enough power to cover what is drawn from the components. A system of resistors is used to limit voltage. No current is transferred to the chassis. That would not be a good deal! All excess voltage is dropped over a resistor before the ground – that is why the regulators sometimes get hot. :)

Not to be an ass, but you need to read up on your studies of electricity a little more.

When all your wattage from your stator isn't being used up, the voltage redily climbs, and soon you would blow lightbulbs and stuff. This is when your regulator steps in and dissapates the extra wattage by allowing current to flow through ground so that the voltage stays at around 14 volts. The wattage from the stator only depends on the RPM of the motor.

One Q: Exactly how can no current pass through the regulator, if it gets hot? If it's getting hot, that means current is passing through it, to ground. And that is exactly what the regulator does to keep the voltage down, it passes whatever current it takes to get the voltage down to 14 or so.

-Dean
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Just wondering if anybody has changed their factory headlight bulbs with any sort of highoutput bulb. I am looking for some, but not sure what to get. I am not looking to spend $150 (canadian) for the PIAA's. Anybody have any suggestions?
Just to get back to Dyson700's question....I put a 100/80 blue zenon in my sled last season replacing the old 60/60. Big difference, the bulb looks blue oncoming but puts a bright white light on the trail.

http://www.royaldistributing.com/servlet/MiddleRedirect?page=index1.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
266 Posts
Heres my 2 cents; If a stator only put out the amount of power called for there would be no need for a regulator. And back to the real Question The high output bulbs are great, if you have enough power to support them. A 97 Cat with grips a heated shield and a 80/100 watt light works great. Also the main reason that sleds come with the 60/55 bulb is that it is the DOT standard for motorcycles.Up until recently the sled manufacturers had no desire to put R&D into headlights so they just outsourced to an existing source for headlights
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top