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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok i posted up some pics of how a gen 2 will look with an iq seat and tank. this weekend i finally installed it. its a seat and tank from a 09 rmk, freestyle type and my sled is a 99 xc 500. im goin to do this in 4 sections: tank, seat, tail light, and console.

TANK:
the first thing i need to over come was getting fuel from the tank. since the tank i got had the fuel pump in the tank to begin with i was not going to try and make that work since there is already a fuel pump in the gen 2. my tank didnt come with the fuel pump in it so i didnt have to worry about taking it out, but this did leave me with a big hole in the top where the fuel pump screwed in. i went to Menards and found a rubber plumbing cap with a radiator clamp and put this over the hole.
as far as the fuel i decided to make the tank act like the old tank. i took the fuel pick up line and fuel line hook up from the old tank. drilled the hole in about the same spot as the old one. theres 2 kinds of plugs ive found to hook up the fuel line from the sled to the tank. one is a rubber one that pops in and seals it and the other is a screw kind. the rubber one i drilled the hole smaller than original because i can always make the hole bigger not smaller. once i got the right size it poped in. the screw kind i did the same thing and made the hole slightly smaller, mainly so when you screw it in the threads can dig into the plastic tank. just screw in as straight as you can. these two types of hook ups depends on what tank you had before. there is only one for each tank.

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this first picture you can see the rubber cap where the fuel pump was. you can also see the fuel line hooked up to the tank by the fuel hook up from the old tank

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here is a closer view of the fuel hook up.


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the breather line on the top of the tank is installed here, just 2 zip ties.


the back of the tank is held down by 2 bolts through the tunnel. these clear the coolers by the way. the front does not have a way to hold it down. so heres what i did.

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you see the two bolts that hold the steering post down.

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this is the bracket that originally holds down the old tank. you will need to bend this to about even with the tank. then make a metal extension to touch the tank where it is supposed to.


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the two above pictures you can see the extension i made to hold down the front of the tank. this will require some bending too.


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we decided to put some rubber around where the bracket meets the tank so it doesn't rub out the tank.

and the last thing is the fuel gauge, you can tank the one from the old tank, (mine was an ede tank) and this fits just fine. its not a perfect way to see how much fuel is in it but it will give you a much better judgment.


SEAT:
the seat is pretty simple, hook it up to the tank then drill holes to bolt down the back. again the seat bolts will clear the coolers.

TAIL LIGHT:
the tail light from a newer style seat will have the same hook ups for wires. the only thing is my sled, the hook up was in front of the tank and the rmk light was only 6 inches long. i had to cut the wires from the tail light and extend them to meet up with the wires in the sled


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here is the light with the extended wires.

to mount the tail light to the seat you need 2 brackets to hold the back of the light.

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here is the two brackets that hook up where the the bolts hold the seat support. i bought some regular household shelf brackets, hammered them flat and bent them to where i needed for the holes to hook up.


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here are two pictures of the back of the light mounted to the seat.

CONSOLE:
This needed the most improvising in my opinion. for some reason last season my console cracked in half. so yours will probably be easier in some ways. to join the console back to one we used a piece of plastic. we set the console where it looked good and cut the plastic to size with a tin snip, then riveted it together.

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you can see how we riveted the console back together. this is also how it looks for good. it doesnt look the best but its the best we could to. its also not terrible.

there are 4 screw that hold the console to the sled, i after the install only the 2 side screws went in, this is fine. for the bottom we just used black zip ties.


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to get the hood to sit flat on the console we had to cut the collar flat, but keep in mind you probably have a console that isnt broken in half so this shouldn't apply to you (in theory)



FINISHED:

heres all these steps i used. hopefully this is a good guideline for some of you to go by. this looks great but feels even better! its like sitting on a new sled. i dont think i would recommend this with stock bar height though.


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excellent! looks great. This should be a great help when I do mine. thanks for the details Muscle
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I got the seat and tank for 150. The tail light for 20. Extra wire and bolts about 10 bucks. So around 180 for me. It seems like a lot sell cheaper than the edge seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh one other thing I forgot is I had to extend the fuel line from the shut off to the tank.
 

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Hey are you using a support for the steering column? I know the Gen II's have weak posts...
 

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Nice work.
I have one like this and did a custom seat but it doesn't
look half as good as that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Polaris_Parts_MN said:
Hey are you using a support for the steering column? I know the Gen II's have weak posts...
No I don't. I've never had a problem with it. I've even had hard enough impact to move the risers forward.
 

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99% finished with my swap. Just a hint to anyone else who plans on doing the swap: you will have to cut your console in half up by the steering post. The IQ tanks are just too tall and too wide to fit into the stock opening. That was my big issue, my other big issues were figuring out the proper wiring for the LED taillight and installing mounting bolts underneath the tunnel because I only have a 3/4" clearance between the track and tunnel.

The hood still fits over the console even though the console sits a little higher and is spread apart at the middle. But I need to address the problem of opening the clutch gaurd, it requires a little force to scrape it against the console
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I guess it was luck that mine cracked in half then! I can't wait to see some pics of your swap!!
 

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Haha that's what I thought too! The console was by far the toughest part. Each time I fit the two halves of the console and the tank together, it fit differently than the previous time.

I was leary of how the blue seat would go with the Red color scheme I had going, but it turned out pretty good.
I think taking the checkered flag decals off the hood made the blue hood decal stand out more, kinda leads right into the seat, as well as the blue tunnel decal.

First one was a mockup of everything sitting in place
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here the taillight is in position of where I want to mount it.
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MuscleD said:
I checked out the pictures of your conversion! Looks great! What tank is that from?
Thanks man, as does yours!

If I remember right, it was a 2008 Shift 600, so it had the carb'ed motor, so the fuel pump location is a solid mold. I even got the fuel pick up line with it. I don't know what the seat's from, I think something like an '08 600 Switchy. Seat's not perfect, several nicks in lower front corneres (seems common for these style and Fusion style seats?), but the rest is nice.

$60 for the seat, $55 for the tank, $20 for the taillight... or for the same price I could've replaced my old ripped seat for a mint wrap-around light seat... I'm happy. Completely worth it, recommend it for all Gen II owners.

thanks for the how-to and being a trend setter Muscle!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Polaris_Parts_MN said:
MuscleD said:
I checked out the pictures of your conversion! Looks great! What tank is that from?
If I remember right, it was a 2008 Shift 600, so it had the carb'ed motor, so the fuel pump location is a solid mold. I even got the fuel pick up line with it. I don't know what the seat's from, I think something like an '08 600 Switchy. Seat's not perfect, several nicks in lower front corneres (seems common for these style and Fusion style seats?), but the rest is nice.

$60 for the seat, $55 for the tank, $20 for the taillight... or for the same price I could've replaced my old ripped seat for a mint wrap-around light seat... I'm happy. Completely worth it, recommend it for all Gen II owners.

thanks for the how-to and being a trend setter Muscle!
thats a hell of a deal you got on those! And less of a hassle with the carb tank. Ha tanks man! Do you have handle bar risers?
 

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Only a nonpivoting 1.5" (corrugated drainage pipe to hide the wires/post) but the bar height still feels right. It looks like my seat sits a little lower than yours though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Any rise from stock is way better in my oppinion. Yeah it does seem like its a bit higher. I do like the look of the blue seat! It makes the risers seem taller I think. Lookes a lot more comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
NOTE: 2 of the wires for the tail light were mixed up on mine. not sure if it was my mistake or if the colors are switched around. so if you only have a running light switch the 2 around and it will work.
 

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Looks great. Im waiting to see someone figure out how to convert a sks/rmk style sled to a newer seat and tank.
 
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