[highrolla7]

Hello all,
Broke my trailing arm mount and while replacing that I noticed my upper radius rod is slightly bent and the lower radius rod is badly bent. Im needing to remove both and I should be able to bend back the upper. The lower rod may be bent back to, but not sure yet. Any tips on removing the rods? I can see where one bolt is, but not sure if the entire motor needs to be removed to get to the back. What tools you guys use?

Also, is it okay to just bend back the rods or is that cause strength issues?

thanks!

 

[WMarshy]

Definitely, anytime steel or aluminum is bent/deformed, localized yelding has taken place and it will ever be as strong in that area.

 

[old_school]

Any tips on removing the rods? I can see where one bolt is, but not sure if the entire motor needs to be removed to get to the back. What tools you guys use?

Should be able to just unbolt them at the spindle and then unscrew them from the rod ends and leave the rod ends attached to the chassis.

I agree with the above post. I wouldn't try to straighten them, I would replace them.

 

[brnr17]

Any tips on removing the rods? I can see where one bolt is, but not sure if the entire motor needs to be removed to get to the back. What tools you guys use?

I agree with the above post. I wouldn't try to straighten them, I would replace them.

X2

 

[highrolla7]

kind of thought that, but was hoping that they would be fine.

as for removal, I have removed them from the trailing arm, so they are just dangling from under the sled. They bolt into the bulkhead, but thats what Im trying to figure out. I can start removing the bolt that I can see, but wondering what is on the other side, if its a nut, not sure how to get to it, since the motor is basically sitting on that section of the bulkhead. Seems kind of dumb for a design like this, but having to tear down the side of the sled to replace a trailing arm mount was just stupid too!

 

[Dekk70]

You should be able to turn them off the end that us bolted to the bulkhead. Jus use a wrench or a vice grips. Also I beleive they are reverse threads. On the replacement issue I jus bend mine straight when I tweek them. Slot cheaper that way lol.

 

[highrolla7]

the one is easily bendable, but the other is has a couple that will need bending. Iowa ditches can destroy the radius rods, I really dont want to dump a lot of money in them just to replace them next winter.

Im going out there tonight to see if I can turn, maybe Im just making this a much harder job than it needs to be!
Thanks

one thing is for sure, with the belly pan that close to the bolt, it makes it a little more difficult. May have to heat up the plastic a little to get a socket on it.

 

[Dekk70]

^^^^^^^. If you can't get it off the way I suggested earlier you just use a couple wrenchesand get it off a 32nd of a turn at a time lol

 

[highrolla7]

true, I do have the wratcheting wrenches. May have to give those a try!

 

[jesse500]

GOOD LUCK WITH THE BOLT FOR THE BOTTOM RADIUS ROD! WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!! ID RATHER SELL THE SLED THAN REPLACE THAT RADIUS ROD IT IS THAT MUCH OF A PAIN! we had to warp the belly pan down to get the bolt out. And it is a large bolt, with a large not on the other side. its like hidden though....

Have fun man!

 

[Dekk70]

GOOD LUCK WITH THE BOLT FOR THE BOTTOM RADIUS ROD! WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS!!!!!! ID RATHER SELL THE SLED THAN REPLACE THAT RADIUS ROD IT IS THAT MUCH OF A PAIN! we had to warp the belly pan down to get the bolt out. And it is a large bolt, with a large not on the other side. its like hidden though....

Have fun man!

And if all else fails you can drill out about 20 rivets and get the bolt out and pop another 20 in lol

 

[old_school]

There is a lock nut where the rod threads onto the rod end. If you loosen the lock nut, you should be able to just turn the rod to unscrew it from the rod end and leave the rod end attached to the chassis.