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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Umm.. ya.. well, the other day, whilst looking at my track, I noticed that.. low and behold.. about 4 or more cleats are broken.. IN HALF!! Not to mention all the other "good" ones are rottin' away... dammit!!!!! Nothin but trouble this sled is...
But my question is.. What tracks will fit on my sled, and does anybody have on? How much ya want? How much should I give my friends for one?
Thanx all,
Matt
 

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good thing u caught it now b4 the snow flies...
 

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Hey, have you thought about replacing the cleats? and re-using the original belts? We did this on our old John Deere sled, Used a 4" grinder to remove the rivits that held them into the track and used the flat headed bolts to put them back on...just be sure not to overtighten the bolts if you do this.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
"good thing u caught it now b4 the snow flies..."
No shit, man.. I woulda snapped if I went to go ridin', and the f'in track ripped apart or something.. lol.
Ok.. thanx for the advice Triumph.. but where could I get cleats.. and for how much?
Or even better.. what if I just leave the cleats "off", and just put screws in instead.. kinda' a n-rigged Pic.. rite?
Matt
 

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You could drill out the old rivets with a 3/8 bit and replace both the cleats and rivets... I had to do this on my 69 cat... The propper rivets can be bought at any fastener store (brifasco) in bulk for about $50 for 10lbs., and the cleats you can get from a cat dealer.. (Here you can get them at Canadian Tire) The whole process is a little time consuming but not hard to do...It just takes some time....
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok dudes, thanx a bunch.. I will try one of the suggestions, just a lil.. confused.. lol, too much to think about rite now..
day-um sled!
 

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The new bolts they have for these is much easier that the rivets. If you use rivets then you will be taking the suspension out in order to have enough room to use a large rivit gun. If you go with a all rubber track then you will need a different drive shaft and suspension.
 

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This brings me back to my first sled, the good ole Johnny Popper. But you are right, just keep replacing the cleats. The bad news is that you will have to check the track out after every ride and kiss any long trips goodbye. I guess you could keep a few extra cleats, cordless drill, and rivots/bolts with you and you could get going again pretty quick.
 

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Hey there Jag81,

Maybe it is some help - a buddy had a TrailCat that was a ....83? Anyways, he was able to buy a retrofit kit for the full conversion to a rubber track. I can't remember if it came from Cat or from an aftermarket though....sorry.

The sled was so much better with the rubber track, I would recommend doing this if you have the means. It went, cornered, and stopped far better than the metal cleats.

Later,
Pneuman
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Why would I need a new drive shaft and suspension if I leave the cleats off?
Why no long trips?
How much would the "retro-fit" be?
Thanx, Matt
 

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With cleats on a track the drive shaft plastic gears are different than the ones used on a all rubber track. Right now on yours the gears turn in between each cleat to move it. The rubber track uses a different gear set up that sits in the more middle of your track in grooves to move it. To change this over requires time and know how. Chaincase ,sprockets, chain, jackshaft, secondary clutch and so on must be taken off. And then your suspension rails right now are probably to narrow or wide (not sure) to work on a rubber track set up. I have a cleated track set up on my 80 TXC and it originally came with all rubber. My susp. was shot and so was the rubber track. Because I use it mostly for ice fishing I change it over to cleated track I got off a 78 TX. I got this track and susp. dirt cheap and its a junker sled so thats why I did it. Hope this doesnt confuse ya too bad. TXC
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Nope.. actualy clarified things.. lol.
But does anyone have a track for sale that is willin' to ship to NY? Is it worth the 100$ for the rubber cleats?
Matt
 
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