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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok. just found a sled to finish my summer project already. says the engines bored .10 over. So that would make it what size? Heres what it is and what the add said.

Polaris Indy 650 triple
Only thing major thats wrong is left ski is bad
was used as drag sled
would do 130mph + easy
Motor bored .10 over
40 mm carbs
800 miles on rebuild
everything internal from Wiseco racing, crank,connecting rods, pistons
Pistons alone cost $130 each
96 seat in near mint condition, few tiny scratches on side
Low, black, Powermadd racing window
rebuilt fuel pump, less than 30 miles
studded track ok but not great
suspension is great, all bearings replaced, new slides 200 miles ago
all new gas/oil lines
hood ok, no graphics, hinge busted tho
Red raised RMS racing bars and pad
I got it for $650. I think its a good deal. What do you think.
 

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what size is a carburated 650 bored(.020 &.020 & .040) in size ugly_old_poo_kid?
 

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Actually that's not correct... (this is what I get for trusting books)

Correct bore/cc is as follows:
Stock is 648.9cc
.010 over is 653.7cc
.020 over is 658.5cc
.030 over is 663.4cc
.040 over is 668.2cc
 

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so mine would be a 687.4 cc.
 

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sounds like a good deal on the price. but the whole 130 mph is a lot of b.s, especially if you are relating other updates into miles, like the rebuild and the new slides, most race sleds that are running 130 mph dont do miles, they measure in passes. sounds like a very nice project sled though.
 

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polarisguy23 said:
Ok. just found a sled to finish my summer project already. says the engines bored .10 over. So that would make it what size? Heres what it is and what the add said.

Polaris Indy 650 triple
Only thing major thats wrong is left ski is bad
was used as drag sled
[highlight=yellow]would do 130mph + easy[/highlight=yellow]
Motor bored .10 over
40 mm carbs
800 miles on rebuild
everything internal from Wiseco racing, crank,connecting rods, pistons
Pistons alone cost $130 each
96 seat in near mint condition, few tiny scratches on side
Low, black, Powermadd racing window
rebuilt fuel pump, less than 30 miles
studded track ok but not great
suspension is great, all bearings replaced, new slides 200 miles ago
all new gas/oil lines
hood ok, no graphics, hinge busted tho
Red raised RMS racing bars and pad
I got it for $650. I think its a good deal. What do you think.
Not easily, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ya I dont believe the 130 thing either but whatever. Just to be clear i did say i had already gat the sled when infact i didnt. I had told the guy i would take it but yet to go pick it up or pay for it. Wanted to get your input first. Later i found out he had to replace one of the pistons because he blew a hole in the top of one from running to hot of a plug. With the flat top pistons, what would be a good psi per cylinder? He says the are aroung 117 118 on all three. Is this good or no.

O ya and what about the crank. Never knew wiseco made cranks. Prolly bs also.?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
117 118 just ok/normal or should it be more?
 

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MicahMan said:
so mine would be a 687.4 cc.
Yours is 661.7

the 2 holes that are .020 over are 219.5cc each
the .040 is 222.7cc

Code:
The volume formula is:

R(squared) x H x PI = volume

R = 1/2 the bore
H = stroke
PI = 3.14159

650 stock bore is 67.75mm
stroke is 60mm
.010" = .25mm

First we'll figure out the R value:

Add stock bore (67.75) and oversize (we'll use 1 mm for .040"), so 68.75 total bore

then cut bore in half - 34.375

Then square that so R = 1181.64

so 1181.64 (R) x 60 (H) x 3.14159 (pi) = 222733.7 cubic millimeters

divide by 1000 to convert CM to CC = 222.7 CC's per hole
x 3 holes = 668.2CC

I created an excel spreadsheet I just put in the stock bore, overbore, stroke and # of holes, and it gives me the answer.
 

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Ugly_old_Poo_kid said:
MicahMan said:
so mine would be a 687.4 cc.
Yours is 661.7

the 2 holes that are .020 over are 219.5cc each
the .040 is 222.7cc

Code:
The volume formula is:

R(squared) x H x PI = volume

R = 1/2 the bore
H = stroke
PI = 3.14159

650 stock bore is 67.75mm
stroke is 60mm
.010" = .25mm

First we'll figure out the R value:

Add stock bore (67.75) and oversize (we'll use 1 mm for .040"), so 68.75 total bore

then cut bore in half - 34.375

Then square that so R = 1181.64

so 1181.64 (R) x 60 (H) x 3.14159 (pi) = 222733.7 cubic millimeters

divide by 1000 to convert CM to CC = 222.7 CC's per hole
x 3 holes = 668.2CC

I created an excel spreadsheet I just put in the stock bore, overbore, stroke and # of holes, and it gives me the answer.
wow im impressed! thanks now i know what i got. i always wondered. i did the math as each individual cylendar but obviously i screwed it up.

makes sence now at .020 it would be 658.5 then you take the .020 and std differance and divide by 3 and add the 3.2 to the .020 and you get 661.7

thanks again for the thought in it.
 

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MicahMan said:
wow im impressed! thanks now i know what i got. i always wondered. i did the math as each individual cylendar but obviously i screwed it up.

makes sence now at .020 it would be 658.5 then you take the .020 and std differance and divide by 3 and add the 3.2 to the .020 and you get 661.7

thanks again for the thought in it.
If I have the chance to educate a fellow sledder, I'll do so as long as I have the time.. [thumb]

If I could post the excel spreadsheet I use, I would.
 

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i would like to have a sticky put in the how to section about stock jetting and carburator settings for every snowmobile ever made or that is accessable. that way people can quit asking or looking all over or calling dealers that dont know when you need the specs. this site has a lot to offer and i use the forum and cross referance a lot of stuff not just for me but other friends for their snowmobiles.
 

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That would be a several hundred page document...

Each year, make, model, and sub-model of sled can and most do, have different jetting.. And different base, temp, and elevation settings.

You're welcome to start collecting the info though. You can start in my manuals thread, that will get you between 5% and 10% complete.
 

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true...that would take forever. it would be nice for the polaris's then. just seems that every time i cal a polaris dealer or try to call a different polaris dealer they dont know stock settings for most of the sleds or ask me what it is when i call them.
 

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Every Polaris dealer has a wall full of Polaris manuals, they need to have every one to work on sleds. They cannot go by memory, or take days waiting for a manual to come in when they order it.

If they are busy doing paid work and don't feel like looking up such minutiae for free, then they play dumb.

I recently went to a dealer when I was troubleshooting my edge, and they had the manual for it that had never been opened because they never worked on my model of sled before.
 

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i hear ya they give you info only if they feel like it if your not gonna pay them. lol
 
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