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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed a boost bottle on my 99 700 rmk, and i am wondering where to set my carbs, the carb is all factory with the accs and 185/190 jets, i have tried turning the air screw out and in, adjusted the idle screw, it currently idles cold at around 3500, and once it warms up works its way to 3 then eventually 2500, but i think its running way to lean because i can turn the choke on and it will drop even more

also how do you change your clip position, just wondering because i have my throttle cable out of my carbs and they seem like they went back together different, is there different slots to hook the cable in
 

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It sounds like to me that with the addition of the boost bottle it leaned out like a lot of these sled do when putting a bottle on them, the SLP recommendation to help cure this condition is to step the pilot jets up from the stock 38's to 40's, and readjustment and syncing of the carbs is key here, to change the clip position you have to pull the slides out, pull the springs back with the light blue collar so that the cables can be removed from the slotted nut that it connects to, then use a 6mm nut driver to pull the nut out, the needle will then fall right out when you tip the slide up side down, stock is in the middle position, moving the clip up leans out the needle, moving the clip down makes a richer condition, doing this changes how much fuel will flow through the main jet from off idle/1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle, it has no effect @ WOT.
 

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http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic/118370-whats-deal

http://www.slp.cc/instsheets/22-52.pdf
 

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I assume it idled lower before you installed the bottle. You need to turn the idle screw to drop the slide, but that screw will do only so much.. At the same time, there has to be slack in the throttle cable. Without slack, the idle screw will not change anything. Loosen the jam nut on top of the carb and let some slack out. Then adjust using the big screw. After you get the right rpm, then you have to fine tune. Sync the carbs, adjust the throttle cables, etc, etc.
If this is a used bottle, you can check out the instructions on the SLP website.


#$%^&.....man I type too slow
 

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And now I am gonna give up one of my secrets, try running the air screws @ 3/4 of a turn out from lightly seated, I chased tuning with the boost bottle for a long time and kept having the stumble from a dead dig, then I decided to go out of the box and and went under 1 turn out and my 98 instantly started running like a dog shitting razor blades, but here again no two of these sleds will respond the same, your gonna have to find the sweet spot with the air screws where it will run its best, I am not saying that with the air screws set at 3/4 of a turn out will make your sled run the best, I was also running a SLP single pipe,hot seat head,V-force II's and smoothed out transfer ports in the cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
98700xc said:
It sounds like to me that with the addition of the boost bottle it leaned out like a lot of these sled do when putting a bottle on them, the SLP recommendation to help cure this condition is to step the pilot jets up from the stock 38's to 40's, and readjustment and syncing of the carbs is key here, to change the clip position you have to pull the slides out, pull the springs back with the light blue collar so that the cables can be removed from the slotted nut that it connects to, then use a 6mm nut driver to pull the nut out, the needle will then fall right out when you tip the slide up side down, stock is in the middle position, moving the clip up leans out the needle, moving the clip down makes a richer condition, doing this changes how much fuel will flow through the main jet from off idle/1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle, it has no effect @ WOT.
do you need a special tool to change the pilots, i will be going to the dealer tomorow to get a couple other things along with the pilots, i was once told they had 45 pilots but maybe i am wrong or confusing it with a different sled
 

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dodgetruck2 said:
98700xc said:
It sounds like to me that with the addition of the boost bottle it leaned out like a lot of these sled do when putting a bottle on them, the SLP recommendation to help cure this condition is to step the pilot jets up from the stock 38's to 40's, and readjustment and syncing of the carbs is key here, to change the clip position you have to pull the slides out, pull the springs back with the light blue collar so that the cables can be removed from the slotted nut that it connects to, then use a 6mm nut driver to pull the nut out, the needle will then fall right out when you tip the slide up side down, stock is in the middle position, moving the clip up leans out the needle, moving the clip down makes a richer condition, doing this changes how much fuel will flow through the main jet from off idle/1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle, it has no effect @ WOT.
do you need a special tool to change the pilots, i will be going to the dealer tomorow to get a couple other things along with the pilots, i was once told they had 45 pilots but maybe i am wrong or confusing it with a different sled
You have to take the float bowl off the bottom of the carb to get at the pilots, they are easily removed with a small slot head screwdriver, unlike the main jets which can be changed by just taking the water trap off the bottom of the float bowl, you might want to go into them to verify what pilots are in there, and now upon checking the pure polaris website the specs for the pilot jets in a 99 RMK 700 say that they are suppose to be 48's, so now before I get jumped for misinformation in my previous posts I have to go on to say that all of my keihin experience is with flatland XC calibrations, I've never had my hands in on any RMK's or SKS's for that matter, but in a couple of weeks I will be getting a 97 SKS 700 which will be my new trail sled, here is the link to the spec page from the polaris site:

It will come up error, just click on carburetor and it will show the schematic and specifications....
http://parts.polarisind.com/Assemblies.asp
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
98700xc said:
dodgetruck2 said:
98700xc said:
It sounds like to me that with the addition of the boost bottle it leaned out like a lot of these sled do when putting a bottle on them, the SLP recommendation to help cure this condition is to step the pilot jets up from the stock 38's to 40's, and readjustment and syncing of the carbs is key here, to change the clip position you have to pull the slides out, pull the springs back with the light blue collar so that the cables can be removed from the slotted nut that it connects to, then use a 6mm nut driver to pull the nut out, the needle will then fall right out when you tip the slide up side down, stock is in the middle position, moving the clip up leans out the needle, moving the clip down makes a richer condition, doing this changes how much fuel will flow through the main jet from off idle/1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle, it has no effect @ WOT.
do you need a special tool to change the pilots, i will be going to the dealer tomorow to get a couple other things along with the pilots, i was once told they had 45 pilots but maybe i am wrong or confusing it with a different sled
You have to take the float bowl off the bottom of the carb to get at the pilots, they are easily removed with a small slot head screwdriver, unlike the main jets which can be changed by just taking the water trap off the bottom of the float bowl, you might want to go into them to verify what pilots are in there, and now upon checking the pure polaris website the specs for the pilot jets in a 99 RMK 700 say that they are suppose to be 48's, so now before I get jumped for misinformation in my previous posts I have to go on to say that all of my keihin experience is with flatland XC calibrations, I've never had my hands in on any RMK's or SKS's for that matter, but in a couple of weeks I will be getting a 97 SKS 700 which will be my new trail sled, here is the link to the spec page from the polaris site:

It will come up error, just click on carburetor and it will show the schematic and specifications....
http://parts.polarisind.com/Assemblies.asp
you mean i should get 48's or stock is 48's, i dont care about misinformation, just glad you found your mistake before i had a melt down or something

ok i got it, couldnt get around the error first, so i should jump up to a 50 pilot then
 

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I think he means stock is 48 so you should go up a few to like 50 - 52. They are cheap, it can't hurt to buy a few and try them out.

Be Careful when working on your carbs, if your not sure how to work on them, speak up. They are simple to people who know what they are doing. A lot of people on here will say how basic they are. If you've never worked on a carb, it's a lot to take in. Take your time and do your research before messing with them. if you come up with any questions, just ASK US!
 

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Take a look at this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcLxjzQ933Q

You can start the video around 2:10

He does a decent job at explaining everything on the carbs. It should help you a bunch when cleaning it so you know what to expect and have an idea of how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sledfreak139 said:
I think he means stock is 48 so you should go up a few to like 50 - 52. They are cheap, it can't hurt to buy a few and try them out.

Be Careful when working on your carbs, if your not sure how to work on them, speak up. They are simple to people who know what they are doing. A lot of people on here will say how basic they are. If you've never worked on a carb, it's a lot to take in. Take your time and do your research before messing with them. if you come up with any questions, just ASK US!
mostly just the jetting i have trouble with and setting them up, i had mine apart and gave them a good cleaning a couple weeks ago, i have had some eexperience working with 4 stroke carbs on little briggs engines

i can take stuff apart and get it back together just fine, but when it comes to the tuning and that stuff I am not sure what to expect

mostly jkust want to get them figured out and set right so it doesnt try and launch out from under me when i pull the rope, i really thought i had a run away the first time i started it with the bottle, jumped up to 5000 and climbed some more before i shut it down, good thing i didnt have the belt on
 

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The general rule of thumb with the air screw is to try to have it between 1-3 turns out. These carbs are very touchy with the air screw and 1/8 turn can make a big difference. That being said, you need to find what the screw is doing right now. If you are out of the 1-3 range, then you need to go leaner or richer accordingly. And don't purchase any more until you see what's currently in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
well they did have 48's stopped and picked up some 50's, she idles about 1600 now with the air screw at 1 1/2

a new question for you guys and maybe i should start a new thread, i took it out in the yard and made a couple rips with it, and i got this god awful rubs noise from my belt, so i opened it up and walked along with it and the secondary isnt cloasing all the way, i can pull the belt back and it will shut
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
the biggest thing messing me up was, a friend of mine was over a while back and helped me pull the motor, and i remember he was dinking with the carbs and th eidle screws, so they were almost all the way in so it seemed like it was taking forever and they were getting turned out a long ways
 
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