[mr_green]

Worn outer driver, same on both outer drivers

example of inner driver to show lack of same wear

wide view of track damage

closer view of track damage.

I am curious if somebody has a theory as to why only the outer drivers are heavily worn, and would this relate to the the damage occuring to the track drive lugs? I am looking to switch to a 1.25" ripsaw, but I need to know if there is something else I should be looking at. I DON'T want to wreck a new track.


Thanks.

 

[ShoelessJoe]

Off hand I would check the alignment of your track. Chances are that the idlers are hitting the lugs resulting in the damage to both of them.

 

[Empire087]

I would also check your driveshaft bearings make sure they are still good. If they are close to failing then it might have become offset.

 

[mr_green]

Off hand I would check the alignment of your track. Chances are that the idlers are hitting the lugs resulting in the damage to both of them.

nah...... alignment was good at least in the short time that I have owned it also the outer wear on the outer drive cogs is equal. its almost like the track edges stretched?

 

[mr_green]

I would also check your driveshaft bearings make sure they are still good. If they are close to failing then it might have become offset.

I found this while tearing down to Change the bearings because I thought they might be bad.
http://www.snowmobilefanatics.com/forum/topic/112519/display.aspx

Turns out they were in very good condition.

if the dirve shaft had become off set wouldnt you have had more wear on say the right drivers than the left drivers?

wait. maybe. the bearing was good, but the one behind the speedometer adapter had a locking collar, and the lock ring was broken, I suppose that the shaft could have moved over enough for it to eat the drive lugs on the track, but what about the wear on the drivers?????


is it possible that from the factory the drivers were set too wide? because its like only half the drive teeth face were contacting the track.

 

[MicahMan]

id say your missing clips and looks like they are worn. every other clip should be a clip with a 90 deg rounded piece of metal going up that catches the drive cog. that would cause it to be chewed up on the outsides of the drive. and the rubber the drive hits will be affected as well under heavy acceleration and time only tells and looks like its pretty used up. id start looking for a new track and or id put new clips on that track if you want to keep it. that drive is trash now so start looking for a new driver cause now the stress is more on the center of the driver cause the outsides are worn and you want that driver to drive that track evenly.

just my opinion. id look for a new track and driver if you wanted to do it rite. otherwise id get some clips on that track and try to save it if your on a budget.

when you accelerate do you get a ratcheting sound underneath?

id say your missing clips and looks like they are worn. every other clip should be a clip with a 90 deg rounded piece of metal going up that catches the drive cog. that would cause it to be chewed up on the outsides of the drive. and the rubber the drive hits will be affected as well under heavy acceleration and time only tells and looks like its pretty used up. id start looking for a new track and or id put new clips on that track if you want to keep it. that drive is trash now so start looking for a new driver cause now the stress is more on the center of the driver cause the outsides are worn and you want that driver to drive that track evenly.

just my opinion. id look for a new track and driver if you wanted to do it rite. otherwise id get some clips on that track and try to save it if your on a budget.

when you accelerate do you get a ratcheting sound underneath?

also since you have the track and driver off, when you set that driver on the track does it sit in the track evenly or did the driver cogs move left or right so its no aligned?

take a picture of it sitting on the track and lets see it so we can get a beter idea.

 

[mr_green]

id say your missing clips and looks like they are worn. every other clip should be a clip with a 90 deg rounded piece of metal [/color=red]going up that catches the drive cog. that would cause it to be chewed up on the outsides of the drive. and the rubber the drive hits will be affected as well under heavy acceleration and time only tells and looks like its pretty used up. id start looking for a new track and or id put new clips on that track if you want to keep it. that drive is trash now so start looking for a new driver cause now the stress is more on the center of the driver cause the outsides are worn and you want that driver to drive that track evenly.

just my opinion. id look for a new track and driver if you wanted to do it rite.[/color=red] otherwise id get some clips on that track and try to save it if your on a budget.

when you accelerate do you get a ratcheting sound underneath?[/color=red]


also since you have the track and driver off, when you set that driver on the track does it sit in the track evenly or did the driver cogs move left or right so its no aligned?

take a picture of it sitting on the track and lets see it so we can get a beter idea.

All my clips are there, a few of the 90 degree portions have broken off, but the flats all remain.


I had some racheting early early this season, and I tightened the track and adjusted alignment that night. alignment remained good after that.


When I get home from work, Ill lay the drive assymbly in the track and take a series of photos.

Is there any reason I can't replace just the outer drivers when I put a new track on?

 

[JD]

wait. maybe. the bearing was good, but the one behind the speedometer adapter had a locking collar, and the lock ring was broken, I suppose that the shaft could have moved over enough for it to eat the drive lugs on the track, but what about the wear on the drivers?????

If the shaft would have moved that far, you would have big problems in your chaincase. I don't think that's what happened.

is it possible that from the factory the drivers were set too wide? because its like only half the drive teeth face were contacting the track.

That's what it looks like to me. If not from the factory, from somebody else. Or the lugs on the track started to wear, and that forced the drivers outward on the shaft. Originally, the wear could have been caused by improper track alignment before you got it, like ShoelessJoe mentioned.

Is there any reason I can't replace just the outer drivers when I put a new track on?

I don't see why not.

 

[MicahMan]

im thinking that the outter drive cogs were out a lil to far and you were barely connecting and the stress broke the metal off and then the inside lugs on the track and time took its toll. i dont see why you couldnt put on some new clips but id definatly get a new drive cog.

 

[mr_green]

I guess it is now obvious why the cogs recieved such excess wear.

so I think this problem is resolved. but, how tight should I run the new cogs? I am picking up a fully clipped predator track tomorrow and will track down a set of drivers

 

[mr_green]

What if I pulled them, and flipped them. they are the exact same sproket, but If I put them on opposite ends, Id be driving off the back of the tooth that has never seen wear yet.

 

[MicahMan]

wow yeah thats the problem. idk if you can move them but if you can i would leave a very small gap maybe a 1/8 inch if you can or get your new track and see how it fits on that one first.

thats what i got is a preditor and man does that thing grab! you will like it exspecialy if you stud it!

 

[mr_green]

wow yeah thats the problem. idk if you can move them but if you can i would leave a very small gap maybe a 1/8 inch if you can or get your new track and see how it fits on that one first.

thats what i got is a preditor and man does that thing grab! you will like it exspecialy if you stud it!

I won't touch it till I see the new track. I know that the drivers are just pressed on, so they can be pressed back off. My only concern is if they will remain tight if I press them off and then back on. there are no set screws, so your relying on the compression of the tight fit.

 

[mr_green]

wow yeah thats the problem. idk if you can move them but if you can i would leave a very small gap maybe a 1/8 inch if you can or get your new track and see how it fits on that one first.

[highlight=yellow]thats what i got is a preditor and man does that thing grab! you will like it exspecialy if you stud it![/highlight=yellow]

Im glad to hear you like the predator track. Tracksusa has the 1.25" predator FULL clip version for $339 I don't think you can beat that with a 10 ft stick.

 

[MicahMan]

wow yeah thats the problem. idk if you can move them but if you can i would leave a very small gap maybe a 1/8 inch if you can or get your new track and see how it fits on that one first.

[highlight=yellow]thats what i got is a preditor and man does that thing grab! you will like it exspecialy if you stud it![/highlight=yellow]

Im glad to hear you like the predator track. Tracksusa has the 1.25" predator FULL clip version for $339 I don't think you can beat that with a 10 ft stick.

yeah my preditor track hooks up pretty damn good. i like it a lot here is a pic

 

[mr_green]

ok, its been a few weeks but Now I have all new drivers installed, new drive shaft bearings, and a brand spanking new fully clipped predator 1.25" track installed. Looks incredible! now there is not enough snow to ride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Figures..... maybe we will get a march snow storm and I will get one ride to try the new track before I put it up for the summer and dig out the motorcycles.