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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just bought a 98 XC 700 and I have been looking through some threads about it and it seems to be a great sled. It has 2400 original miles and has 130 compression across the board so I can't ask for anything more there.

I am wanting to know what you guys have them set up with clutch wise.

What mods should be done to the sled to make it faster keeping reliability as the main factor.
 

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I ran hot seat clutch kit, with vforce 3 reeds, slp air box kit, jetted
 

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yea slp pipes are nice but he wants reliability!
 

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Does it have 220 or 824 cylinders? This makes a difference when clutching.
 

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If youre running the stock height track then a deeper lug track would be a great upgrade. Like either a 1.25 camoplast ripsaw or predator. Then throw 144 studs down the center. Also regearing is a good cheap reliable way to get more grunt. I never regeared my 700 cause I didnt want to lose any top end but Im starting to consider it.

I have an slp single pipe on my sled and love it, great upgrade.

For clutching
primary: 64g weights for 220 jugs and 62g for 824 jugs, epi red spring or polaris almond blue

secondary: 50-36 helix and polaris silver blue spring
 

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Right now with a stock pipe on my 99 with 824s I am running 64s and could go just a tad heavier, so that will depend on the sled for sure. I am running a HSP yellow primary for a little lower engagement(less track spin) a 50-36s helix and an HSP orange secondary spring.
 

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Get a set of V-Force reeds, SLP Power Packs, at lower elevations run 182 main jets. Drop one tooth on the top sprocket so its geared 23/40. It won't loose any top end on hard pack snow with this gearing. Do those things along with the above posts clutching recommendation and the sled will fly.
 

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dtmmil said:
Right now with a stock pipe on my 99 with 824s I am running 64s and could go just a tad heavier, so that will depend on the sled for sure. I am running a HSP yellow primary for a little lower engagement(less track spin) a 50-36s helix and an HSP orange secondary spring.
The type of helix you run affects the weight the engine needs to maintain rpm allot, running a full progressive helix will lower the rpms quite a bit.
I tried some Hot seat twins last year on my 98 700, they made the sled wild but in trial in error clutching switching from a my normal 46/36 full progressive cut helix to a Hot Seat 50/38X the sled picked up 300rpm instantly. With the FP 46/36 it would pull no more then 60g and with the 38X it needed 64g
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I want reliability so I am hesitant to do the single pipe... twin pipe is definitely out... Do Vforce reeds effect reliability? I know they crack and can cause problems but how long do they last?

Boost Bottle worth it? I ride in the flat lands of IL and then once or twice up in WI so elevation is not a problem.. you think 182 jets are the best?
 

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petrey10 said:
I want reliability so I am hesitant to do the single pipe... twin pipe is definitely out... Do Vforce reeds effect reliability? I know they crack and can cause problems but how long do they last?

Boost Bottle worth it? I ride in the flat lands of IL and then once or twice up in WI so elevation is not a problem.. you think 182 jets are the best?
A single won't hurt the reliability and it won't be as finicky. SLP Power Packs, SLP Boost Bottle (plastic), and 1st generation V-Force reeds are good, reliable mods. Reeds will fail from time to time. I had good luck with my V-F reeds. We have guys running 178 mains in WI. It helps the fuel mileage, but if you are planning to do long, lake / river runs, stick with the 182s.
 

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petrey10 said:
I want reliability so I am hesitant to do the single pipe... twin pipe is definitely out... Do Vforce reeds effect reliability? I know they crack and can cause problems but how long do they last?

Boost Bottle worth it? I ride in the flat lands of IL and then once or twice up in WI so elevation is not a problem.. you think 182 jets are the best?
If it runs good without the boost bottle then do not install one. My 98 runs great with no bottle. V-Force reeds will wreck over time, the pto side in mine went out the first ride last season and the mag side went out on the 2nd to last ride. Both times the sled wouldn't hardly run. The reed pedals are replaceable and you should check them every year. Boyesen makes pedals for the stock cages, there cheaper and don't fail. Both reeds set ups make the engine run much better then the stock reeds.
 

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Also, I don't believe that twins will hurt the reliability on these either, my wife has them on her 600 xc and no problems what so ever with her sled, it has over 3000 miles on it also.
 

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Once setup a SLP single pipe is a set it and forget it deal and is no less reliable than the stock pipe but gives a killer HP improvement over the stock pipe, I've been running one for years and the performance out of it is second to none IMO, once its clutched and jetted for the pipe all you have to do is RIDE IT!!!, do the boyesen reeds too, they are just as good as the V force and cost a lot less, all the info your getting from the other members in this thread have been tuning and working these sleds for years, your not gonna get any better opinions or info than what is being given to you right here, right now.
 

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petrey10 said:
alright now I just need to find the SLP single pipe
You my friend are a tad bit too late, I just sold the second SLP single pipe/can combo that I had left. Drew will advise you on the results with his new pipe on that wild '99 XC700 144 stretch project. He needed something to keep up with his wife and her 600 twin piped Polaris[thumb]BTW Drew, ever come up with a new Avatar name for that "stretched" XC700? I know Kevin-WhiteXC did something XCX700
 

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Haha man, I walked away from my wifes twin piped 99xc600 several times last winter while we were running across some lakes! And no names for it yet.
 
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