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any suggestions on what shock and springs to use on the front suppension to level it out a little bit for better deep snow and downhilling. mine seams to nose dive in deep powder or if I'm landing going down hill. here is also a pic of my sled see how it dives to the front. 201017151754846_30849.jpg
 

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i've swapped xtra-10s into a 1980 TXL and into my 1980 TX. the TX has 8 tooth drivers.

as with any swap you have to use the information available and apply it to your own swap. in my case i moved the front mounting holes down to accomodate the 8 tooth drivers. the distance from the axle and the distance between the mounting points are the important ones. i like to have the track just clearing the guides of the front arm, and a slight taper on the clearance (a little more clearance between the track and tunnel at the rear than at the front) and when the sled is off the ground i like the bottom of the track to be level with the bottoms of the ski. the xtra 10 is nice because it has limiters front and back so you can play with these later to customize the ride. i have also played with the front (94 trail deluxe), putting slightly longer shocks in order to have the static setting in the middle of the travel. polaris has different spindle lengths, to accomodate the different ski styles, the older indy steel skis were taller so they had shorter spindles to maintain the same height as the plastic ones. i put plastic skis on my 94 so i changed to longer spindles, later i changed the front shocks to Fox from a newer RMK to gain an inch or 2 travel on the front.

the late 90s XC are awesome with an edge skid swapped in.
 

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snobilly said:
any suggestions on what shock and springs to use on the front suppension to level it out a little bit for better deep snow and downhilling. mine seams to nose dive in deep powder or if I'm landing going down hill. here is also a pic of my sled see how it dives to the front. 201017151754846_30849.jpg
i don't think the front is the problem, the rear skid appears to be mounted too low at the rear of the tunnel. set the rear mounting hole higher in the tunnel, as high as it will go and still have a bit more clearance between the lugs and the tunnel at the back then the clearance at the front. you may have to go to 8 tooth drivers up front in order to have proper geometry with the paddle size you have, looks like at least 1 1/2 inches. loosen the front and rear straps all the way and with the machine off the ground position the front mounting holes such that the bottom of the ski and the bottom of the track are in the same line.

if after checking all that it still is wrong then you may have to go to different length shocks up front.

what is the year, model, track size and what skid did you swap in?
 

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The sled is a 1995 XCR 600 just bought i this year from a guy at work. It has a 131" x 2" track. I'm not sure what the skid is out of. but looking at it what you are saying makes sense. I can move the track up about 3" and stll have clearance inside the tunnel Thanks for your help
 

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Hi, I'm new here and to snowmobiles too. I bought a 95 XCR 600 last year and the skid fell apart on me so I decided to do the extra 10 swap. I not to sure what the skid is out of but the guy i got it from said 97 ultra. I installed the skid today and it seems my track is really tight, the rear wheels are all the way forward the the track is hitting the rear of the skid. I have 3 holes drilled for the front one above eachother so we moved it to the very top hole. We got alittle more play with the track, enough to get it away from the rear of the skid but the it still seems really tight to me. What we did on the rear mount was just moved it ahead to the other holes and drilled the others puttin us just shy of 23 inches. Should I ride it like this or is something really wrong? I wish I woulda found this site sooner.
 

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Ranger said:
Hi, I'm new here and to snowmobiles too. I bought a 95 XCR 600 last year and the skid fell apart on me so I decided to do the extra 10 swap. I not to sure what the skid is out of but the guy i got it from said 97 ultra. I installed the skid today and it seems my track is really tight, the rear wheels are all the way forward the the track is hitting the rear of the skid. I have 3 holes drilled for the front one above eachother so we moved it to the very top hole. We got alittle more play with the track, enough to get it away from the rear of the skid but the it still seems really tight to me. What we did on the rear mount was just moved it ahead to the other holes and drilled the others puttin us just shy of 23 inches. Should I ride it like this or is something really wrong? I wish I woulda found this site sooner.
i got a 92 indy 440 mod an it has a xtra 10 suspension only way to go
 

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I'm interested in doing this, I don't know much about my sled. All I know is that it's a 1996 Polaris 680 Ultra.

Can somebody tell me what kind of suspension I have? And anything else that would be good to know.

Thanks in advance!
 

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Well I took mine out for the 1st time last saturday and the xtra 10 worked awesome. I havent had anytime to thaw the snow off and look it over to make 100% sure but I had zero issues on the trail. Huge improvement in handling, I love it. Makes my XCR a different and fun sled to ride. I dont wanna sell it now lol.
 

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This is for JB. I have 2 Xtra 10 suspensions (not sure of the chassis origin), one is the 133 and the other is the 136. From what I can gather the 136 was used in the 97-99 700 RMK, 98-99 600 RMK. When placing them side by side the 133 rails are flatter, rear torque arm location is different, and springs are the same length. I am planning to mount the 136 in a 1989 Indy Trail chassis and have used the 133 incher for needed parts front torque arm and some cross shafts)to complete the 136. I have visited your site (excellent by the way) and have printed both sets of drawings for the Xtra 10 swaps. However, I am still confused when I compare them to a 1997 XLT SKS Xtra 10 mounting locations.
 

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Has any one done a 133 sks Xtra 10 into a 93 indy 500 sks? I have a doner xtra10 from an 1996 ultra and I used jbshocks template but the track is waaay too loose. My track is a 136 from a 2004, but I figured I could take up the slack with the adjusters. After bolting it in and the adjusters all the way back, there is still about 4" between the track and sliders. Should I use the original front holes and measure back from there? I don't want to drill again and it be wrong.
 
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