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This is a work in progress as I write this. I will update this evening with more pics, especially on modifying the rail extensions.

Once you have made the decision to upgrade to the excellent Xtra-12 suspension, you need to ask "what year Xtra-12 should I get? Buy one from '94, '95 or '96. These years had o-rings on the shafts to keep grease in/other things out, of the shafting. Also, these suspensions have 13.1 inches vertical travel, while in later years this was shortened to 11.1 inch.

Get the following mounts, you will need them, don't argue whine or complain, just get them.
For the front:
1012269-067 MOUNT,LH,F.SUSP.BLK
1012270-067 MOUNT,RH,F.SUSP.BLK

For the rear:
1012432-067 MT,RH,REAR SUSP,BLK
1012431-067 MT,LH,REAR SUSP,BLK

Tools? Standard stuff: drill, bigger hammer, round files, Dremel, ect. You will also need a really good rivet gun. One that can pull 1/4" steel rivets. I bought this Huck 175 off eBay for $165.00 and it works like a charm. They are $280.00 new. It operates at 90 psi and will pull 3500 pounds at that pressure. Those are stainless steel, and plain steel rivets. Not your garden variety pop-rivet.
[attachment=51780]
Other usefule tools are left to right: dial calipers, good tape measure, automatic center punch, die grinder, selection of carbide bits, sheet metal vise grips.
[attachment=52061]
Measuring rod. I used a steel welding filler rod that was straight. I bent a hook in one end to measure from the edge of the front hole. I feel this is pretty useful when you do not have someone to hold the thing (or tape measure), in the center of the hole.
[attachment=51824]

Where to put it? On most Indy's Polaris has very thoughtfully installed the outside template for you. For those machine with no plating on the outside of the tunnel, these measurements should help you place the skid. These were given to me by fellow SF forumite "JD".
[attachment=54978]
Don't look on the inside of the tunnel, look down there in the footrest area just below the steering hoop. There it is. You have to go inside the tunnel and grind off five rivets, you will install four 3/16" rivets, and one 1/4" rivet. Drill a guide hole through the large one in the outside steel plate, then enlargen the hole using a Dremel or round file. This hole is 7/16".
[attachment=51781]
You can see the original mounting hole locations for the Xtra-10 to the left of center, the Xtra-12 mounting hole is just to the right of center, along with those new rivets.
This is what it looks like from the inside:
[attachment=51785]

The rear mount location is exactly 23.59375" from the front, measured by using a straight steel rod with a hook bent on the other end. Using this homemade tool allows for the rod to find the center of the edge of the front hole. If you really want to go center-to-center, measure 23 13/16" or 23.8125".
[attachment=51825]
[attachment=51783]
[attachment=51782]
The rear hole is 4.750" down from the top of the tunnel.
[attachment=51784]

I used a carbide tipped scribe to mark the arc of the measuring rod, then used it to make a "dot" in the powder-coating on the tunnel, a Starrett automatic center-punch to poke a dent, then drill a 1/8" guide hole. Go inside the tunnel and notch the lower tunnel reinforcement, or you may end up drilling off-center, as the lip of the reinforcement will interfere with the 7/16" drill bit.
Some trimming of the mounting plate and the rear tunnel reinforcements will be necessary. You can see I made a backer for the top-right rivet. I wanted to use the original hole in the top tunnel reinforcement, and used this backer to spread the clamping pressure of the 1/4" rivet. The lower reinforcement has to be notched 1.5" to the left and right of the hole, due to the mounting bracket being made of two sheets of 0.100" steel, sandwiching a 1/4" thick disc of steel between them. By notching the lower reinforcement, you can set the mounting plate in flush for an excellent fit. To the left is my Xtra-10 mounting plate.
[attachment=51786]
ATTENTION: the above measurement is for the 1995 RXL. If you plan on using a track larger than 3/4" lubs, you will need to increase the drop to 5.550". The following photo shows what it looks like when I found out the hard way why. Near zero cleanrance
[attachment=52296]
After another six hours of work: dropping the suspension (again), drilling out all those expensive rivets, dropping the brackets, and putting everything back.
[attachment=52297]
Here are the Mountain Machine Performance 121"-144" rail extensions. I have one fitted and the other is just held on by the two bolts. The older style Xtra-12 rails had the rounded slots. All the newer ones '97 and up, have rectangular slots. I rounded the rectangular tabs on the extensions. I could have saved quite a bit of time had I simply modified the slots on the rails themselves.
[attachment=52062]
Other side.
[attachment=52063]

And here we are. Hyperfax fitted and ready to slide in under the tunnel.
[attachment=52064]
And here it is after all the frustration. Now all I have to do is put the motor in, rewire it and hopefully go and have fun.
[attachment=52298]
And that is how you upgrade to an XTRA-12.
 

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I have installed an extra 12 a couple times on a 93 indy xlt, and the front bolts went in front of the steps, exactly behind the rad hoses...its about an inch or so...I believe I had to go through a rivet...

At any rate, I dont think putting the extra 12 holes in the front "Xtra 12" stock markings will work, on a 93, ...I also installed it on a 1990 frame and it came out to the same thing...

(Not saying you're wrong, just tellin ya how it came out for me)

Cool sled! Love the '144
 

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excellent pics looks really good im thinkin about doing and xtra 12 swap and if i do ill definatly use this walkthrough
 
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