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Discussion Starter #1
I need a manual, or some pages out of one to do the chaincase. I'm not gonna purchase one as it's not my sled, but does anyone know a web page where you can find one? It's for a 2001 classic 600 with an m-10 suspension. Thanks, Ryan
 

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What do you mean by 'do the chaincase'????? Are you just trying to change the chaincase oil or something different???
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry I should of been more explanatory. The seal on the bottom jack shaft or the drive shaft w/e you wish to call it is leaking and it's leaking all the oil out of the chain case on to the track. So I think this bottom seal is the problem so I need to replace it. But a manual would be helpful for all the torque specifications for the chain case, fluid capacities etc. I'm sure I could do without, I just would like it done right so I don't have to do it again. Also, I noticed the front bolt on the right side of the tunnel that holds the suspension in is loose, out about a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. It has an M-10 in it and I was told the shafts were made to long so this was a problem with them. Is this just a lie or is it true? It's a 2001 Classic 600 with an M-10 set up fox shocks etc. Thanks again.
 

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Sorry, but I'm not very much help for you other than the chaincase capacity is 13 oz. Not sure about the torque spec's and I have no experience with the M-10 suspension.

Hopefully some others will be able to help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea no experiance with an M-10 here either, but I've heard their the cats meow. Thanks anyways... greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a 01 600 Classic and I had the same problem with the front bolts comeing loose alot. I cleand up the threads real good and used Loctite and kept checking them after each ride. After haveing to tighten the bolts a couple of times I had no more problems wiyh it.
Can,t help with the tourque specs. but I just snuged the bolts up and they stayed tight. DON,T over tighten the chaincase cover bolts too much, They will snap easy.
I found that it was easier to pull the skid and track out to pull the seals and bearings out.
The bearing is probalby shot and that is what took the seal out.
I have over 13000 miles on this sled , so I have had the skid out a few times.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks greasemonkey. I've got it apart without taking the skid out, but it wasn't easy, I think the skid will have to come out so I can put it back together. I forget how many km are on it off the top of my head, but surprisingly even with the loss of oil the bearings are fine, the seal just like rotted away and it leaked out oil through the tunnel side of the chain case. I found it quite odd. I'll clean the threads and loctite the bolts for the suspension, I figured it would help some [:)] thanks for re assuring that. The chain case would of come out easier if the bracket that the can sits on wasn't so close to it but what can you do. Thanks for all the help, it's appriciated. Ryan
 

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You might want to pull the skid just to check all of the bearings. You might want to replace the lower bearing in the chaincase while you have it apart. It doesn,t cost much and it will save you problems down the road. Also, check the chain for any stiff links. If any of them are stiff REPLACE it AND the gears before you have any problems.
Also, if you have more than 3000 miles on the sled, REPLACE THE WATER PUMP BElT !!! It costed me a motor when the belt broke at 10,000 miles. Didn,t even think about the belt until it was too late.
As you can tell, I am a maintence fanatic but that is why I got so many miles out of the sled. It is the wifes sled now and she loves it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes I'm a perfectionist too, it's good to hear I'm not the only one. I may as well pull the skid anyway to check it over, gotta changed the sliders anyway. Lower bearing on the chaincase and water pump belt, I'll remember that too. Thanks a ton.
 
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