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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My sled engages at around 4600 and max is 9000. yellow/white spring 122preload 280 or 285 shift, cant remember. stock everything. 49 gram weights. i want more off the line without sacrificing any or little speed top end. should i go with 170/300 155/285 or what? can someone help. sorry so long just giving all details
 

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For starters, if you're spinning 9000 RPM, you are over revving. You want to be dialed into about 8400-8600 RPM for peak power. Past your peak RPM, you will only lose power. Your engagement speed also sound high. I want to say 4400 is stock.

Have the clutches ever been apart? Stock components could be a little tired if it has any sort of miles on it, causing the RPM's to rise like they have.

You can clutch it for a higher engagement which will make it slightly more aggressive off the line. The most you want to engage at with this sled is 5000 RPM, IMO. Harder engagement decreases the life of your parts, and may cause more track spin on take off.

Stock primary should be a Yellow/White which is 122-285. If you wanted, you could try a Orange/White (0646-248) which is 143-290 which should bump your engagement up some.

I've read a Orange/White with 52g weights and a Red/White with 57-50 helix works well in them. I have no first hand experience though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do you know whereabout to get that orange/white spring? i may be a little high on max rpms. 8800-8500 now that you mention it. may have been a little high cause i was in a field of powder. and i just started my sled and warmed it, engagement is about 4400-4450. with that 143-290 wont that bump up max rpms a little bit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
and it has about 2900 miles on it clutch never been apart. would you recommend that the helix, weights, and spring be changed all at once?
 

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The number I listed with the orange/white is the Cat part number. It is the only spring from Cat that is stiffer than the one you already have. I don't know exactly how much it will change your engagement nor peak tho. Ideally if you just wanted to change engagement, you would find one with a higher first rate, and the same second rate.

I've read that clutches should be rebuilt every 2000-3000 miles. If you're going to be taking them apart, you could just as well replace everything. I know those are lacking from the factory, so a custom or prefabbed clutch kit will probably only be beneficial. I'm running a D&D kit myself, also their pipe and chip as you may remember. They also have (or had) kits for stock setups. While it's apart check the pins, rollers, clean everything, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
is it worth doing that stuff just for a little more engagement? what numbers are you running on your clutch? and the cleaning is worth it but should i bother doing the other stuff? what sleds or clutches do they make the 170/300 for when my sled has high rpms on engagement and max to begin with? like that 155/285, that seems quite durastic doesnt it? probably be dumb to go that much hey
 

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Like I said, I'm running a D&D clutch kit which is obviously comprised of D&D parts. I am not sure what specifics I have in mine, and I'm not home to see if I still have the data sheet.

A good clutch setup is worth its weight in gold. You can achieve better acceleration and smoother, quicker back shift, which will let you get the power to the ground quicker when you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
how long have you had the pipe combo? and i was leary of pipes cause on my dads 94 zr 580 he had double psi with everything done to it. he also had to jet it every ten minutes almost. but with efi and not worrying about jets, im scared of burning down plus it will save me money. do you like the sound of yours? sorry for all the questions. o..my clutch will still be reliable if i do all of that right wont it? no burn downs there either? haha
 

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A clutch kit isn't going to burn down your sled. Period. As long as you don't have an overly high engagement, your clutches will be perfectly reliable. Even with a higher engagement, they will just require maintenance a little more often.

Like you said, as long as you have an aftermarket chip for your EFI, you should not burn it down. I've had my D&D setup since 2005. I got my SnoPro in 07...so I probably have 2 years worth of decent run time on my D&D parts. I've never had a problem. It's quick up to about 85mph, then tops off about 90mph I would guess.

This is my sled. Not the best clip, but it's all I have. I've been told it's much louder than the video makes it out to be.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uW-l5G3dpOI
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
ok two more questions, should i wait to see if i can get twin pipes before getting clutching done? and all i can find from d.d racing is pipes for carb and cant find the chip. where did you find yours? ur 600 tops out at 90?
 

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If you plan on getting a pipe (or pipes), wait on the clutching. If you clutch it now, then add a pipe, you will have to reclutch it. No need to spend the money twice.

All my stuff was ordered right from D&D Racing's website back in August of 2005. They have since taken them off their site. You could always call to see if they still have anything laying around

Mine was running around 90mph in lose snow with a 1.6" paddle track. I have since installed a 1.375" lug track, but since it is not my primary sled anymore, I have not worked on fine tuning it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
o that is still pretty quick with that track. did you get twin or single pipe? and they have quiet or loud twin pipes and i think single. are yours the quiet or loud ones?
 

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I have the D&D single pipe with quiet can. And for the record, my quiet can is not all that quiet. I've always wondered how loud the actual "loud" can is.

Usually single pipes are better for low/mid-range pull. Twins work better on top-end and higher RPM's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
haha ya. i like your sled. it sounds almost stock tone but better and tuned yet a little louder. i dont even want to hear the twin loud pipes with loud can. open headers on a 350 small block haha. I think i will call and ask about the chip and single pipe. so would you just recommend the single pipe clutch kit rather than tinkering with different parts?
 

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Yes, they will gladly sell you a custom prefabbed clutch kit that is set for the specs of their pipe. It will include new springs, weights, and helix. Approximately 5000 RPM engagement and a peak of 8300 RPM which is where the D&D single likes to be at. It will cost you more, but personally, I don't like to sit and do hours of searching to see what others are running with a similar setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
ya that sounds good. think i should do suspension drop on that so it sits higher in the rear? i know travel will not change. and max rpm of 8300 will reduce speed alot wont it? would you recommend boyeson power reed petals or reed spacers?
 

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Your peak RPM is dependent on the tune of the exhaust. Your stock single creates peak power at about 8500 RPM. The D&D Single pipe creates its peak HP at 8300 RPM. You want to be clutched wherever your peak power is.

Like I said before in another topic of yours, I would only be looking into Boyesen petals if your stock reeds are worn out. If it runs fine as is, reeds and reed spacers are not worth the hassle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
ok i didnt remember. thanks a lot i really appreciate it. same speed about would be reached then. that thing still bogs when i am on a bank and i hit the gas. the tss is unplugged too. wtf
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
how much do would you think that a 155/285 would change engagement from 122/285
 
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