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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
so i have a 94 polaris xlt indy 600 and i was wondering if anyone has some pointers or tips as to how i can get some more power out of my sled without spending a forchen?
 

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1980PolarisTXC340 said:
Use premium grade gas and synthetic oil
[confused] 100% wrong. Premium fuel and synthetic oil DO NOT make your sled faster. Might pro-long its motor life a little bit, but no performance gains at all.

do you want it to go faster top end, or go faster from like 0-80 mph? gearing, clutching, track & studs, tripple pipes, jetting, bored carburetors, big bore kits...

all depends on how much you want to spend and what your looking to achieve.
 

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jesse500 said:
1980PolarisTXC340 said:
Use premium grade gas and synthetic oil
[confused] 100% wrong. Premium fuel and synthetic oil DO NOT make your sled faster. Might pro-long its motor life a little bit, but no performance gains at all.
Higher octane fuel equals better motor performance
 

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1980PolarisTXC340 said:
jesse500 said:
1980PolarisTXC340 said:
Use premium grade gas and synthetic oil
[confused] 100% wrong. Premium fuel and synthetic oil DO NOT make your sled faster. Might pro-long its motor life a little bit, but no performance gains at all.
Higher octane fuel equals better motor performance
100 % wrong.


kws82590 said:
faster top end
re-gear, re-clutch, re-jet and triple pipes (huge power gains). Make sure you track is good, and you have at least 120 studs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i have a brand new track and studs...what one would you recommend? or what one would give me the most gain in top end?
 

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kws82590 said:
i have a brand new track and studs...what one would you recommend? or what one would give me the most gain in top end?
well thats good. How many studs? And I recommend triple pipes, they have HUGE power gains, but you need to re-jet and re-clutch with the pipes anyways, so it happens at once. You can re-gear as well, as it only like $60 to re-gear a sled.
 

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Well a couple things: 1) your 94 XLT is a 580cc unless you've done something to the engine (600's came out in 95). 2) 1980polaristxc340, your half right, prem. fuel does mean better engine performance, but ONLY if that engine was designed to run on prem. fuel and the 94 XLT's weren't. 3) I think 80 mph would be top end for that sled, (real speed that is).

Your on track with pipes but your looking at big bucks and reducing the life of your engine 10 fold. You can re-gear safely, a tooth or so bigger on top sprocket. Make sure your jetted properly for the day and as far as traction, it looks like you got that covered. Other than that there is very little without drastically reducing the life of your engine.

Best of luck.
 

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boody1981 said:
Well a couple things: 1) your 94 XLT is a 580cc unless you've done something to the engine (600's came out in 95). 2) 1980polaristxc340, your half right, prem. fuel does mean better engine performance, but ONLY if that engine was designed to run on prem. fuel and the 94 XLT's weren't. 3) I think 80 mph would be top end for that sled, (real speed that is).

Your on track with pipes but your looking at big bucks and reducing the life of your engine 10 fold. You can re-gear safely, a tooth or so bigger on top sprocket. Make sure your jetted properly for the day and as far as traction, it looks like you got that covered. Other than that there is very little without drastically reducing the life of your engine.

Best of luck.
You are right with the CC thing, I didn't even notice that. And you are also right about the fuel, a snowmobile that is designed to run on regular fuel benefits absolutely nothing when ran on premium, a motor that runs on 91 or higher as a minimum benefits to the higher octane level as the timing and compression ratio is adapted to it. 80 MPH is not what a stock 580cc triple will achieve, they will hit triple digits on a long run with proper jetting and traction.

Triple pipes do not reduce your engine life 10 times as much as normal. Might chop a 20% off its final miles, and a stock XLT are WELL known to tickle 10,000 miles in good cases with PROPER maintenance. enjoying an additional 20 HP those 2 seasons less, it is well worth it IMO. Also depends on how the pipes are set-up, if it is twins or triple pipes into 1 stock can, your motor will loose 10 times its life span easily. with triple stingers and silencers, will last a long time.

You do not need to jet according to the daily temperature, aim for the absolute coldest you would ever ride in then use the next size down. Then your set for the season, if you have a fluke super cold, either don't go or re-jet. very easy to do on the old style carbs.

gearing is also easy to do. And you might get away with 3 extra teeth on the top gear, and 1 less on the bottom with stock chain.

when triple pipes are installed, clutching and jetting go hand in hand with it, so those 2 bases are covered.

If you really wanted to see very impressive power, bore the carburetors to 38 mm or get some 38 mm carbs (or get some 38 mm carbs and have them bored to 39.5 mm), gut your stock airbox, have your cylinder ported, install triple pipes with triple silencers, clutch and jet accordingly and re-gear 3 tooth + on top 1 gear less on bottom.

It will be a very, very fast machine.
 

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prem fuel isnt to make better performance, the higher the octain is the harder it is to ignite which helps with preign. and det. on higher compression engines.

And how does having twin/triple pipes into one can decrease the life of an engine? simply asking because I have been running twin HTG's into a single can on my 700 and have not had any issues all season (one season may not sound like much, but I ride my sled every day to and from work, aswell on rides.)
 

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I have a 93 580 all stock, 6550 miles. stock single pipe too. I run 91 pump fuel only cause I don't want to use the ethanol crap in it! I took the advice of a member here on the boards(thinksno) and I have never looked back. I also put a edge suspension in which took away alot of hp, but i geared it 20/40 stock is 21/39, I am able to run 10 AL weights in the primary with a polaris blue spring, in back i have a R8 helix with a polaris silver/blue spring in hole #2 and cause of the clearances in the primary clutch i run the newer wider overdrive belt and this sled is an absolute joy to ride! If u have the stock suspension yet I see no reason at all that it wont do close to 100 with above mods as mine will see 85 + and does it very quickly also!
 

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I have a 94 XLT- bone stock. It will easily push the speedo past the 100 mark on long WOT pulls ( I realize this isn't actual and speedos are off a little). But what I am getting at is those little 580 triples had plenty of top end stock right out of the box. They were geared tall from the factory- 21-39 and the stock clutching was actually very good for top end. Most people change the clutching and gearing in these sleds to make them quicker off the line and more low and mid-range scoot which will take away from top-end speed. The under hood sticker calls for 87 octane fuel- no advantage at all to running higher than what the sled requires- however, as 93polaris mentioned, I do run 92 prem to get away from the ethanol. You can add triple pipes and see some significant hp gains, but as mentioned you will need to re-jet, re-clutch and stay on top of the tuning for temp changes. Myself, I would just leave it stock, make sure its tuned properly and just ride it! Even in stock form my little XLT has surprised a lot of newer sleds in its day. If you really want to go fast get an XCR 800.
 

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Good luck finding fuel with no ethanol. Before long it will be in everything. They can have 5% without labeling it. 10% is labeled. Get a ethanol tester and see how much is in there. I have done testing in wi and have found 2-3% during the winter and up tp 8% in the summer. Ethanol doesn't fire too well in the cold. No need to add HEET anymore either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i just got the sled over the summer and i only paid 200 bucks for it (great deal i think) so i dont really want to put alot of moeny into it...thanks again for everones help
 

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TRIPLEB said:
I have a 94 XLT- bone stock. It will easily push the speedo past the 100 mark on long WOT pulls ( I realize this isn't actual and speedos are off a little). But what I am getting at is those little 580 triples had plenty of top end stock right out of the box. They were geared tall from the factory- 21-39 and the stock clutching was actually very good for top end. Most people change the clutching and gearing in these sleds to make them quicker off the line and more low and mid-range scoot which will take away from top-end speed. The under hood sticker calls for 87 octane fuel- no advantage at all to running higher than what the sled requires- however, as 93polaris mentioned, I do run 92 prem to get away from the ethanol. You can add triple pipes and see some significant hp gains, but as mentioned you will need to re-jet, re-clutch and stay on top of the tuning for temp changes. [highlight=yellow]Myself, I would just leave it stock, make sure its tuned properly and just ride it! Even in stock form my little XLT has surprised a lot of newer sleds in its day. If you really want to go fast get an XCR 800.[/highlight=yellow]
^^^This Post Says it all.....Perfect[thumb]
 

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Triple pipes do not reduce your engine life 10 times as much as normal. Might chop a 20% off its final miles, and a stock XLT are WELL known to tickle 10,000 miles in good cases with PROPER maintenance. enjoying an additional 20 HP those 2 seasons less, it is well worth it IMO. Also depends on how the pipes are set-up, if it is twins or triple pipes into 1 stock can, your motor will loose 10 times its life span easily. with triple stingers and silencers, will last a long time. how would running siliencers vs a can make an engine last shortere or longer 100%wrong statement.[/color=red]

You do not need to jet according to the daily temperature, aim for the absolute coldest you would ever ride in then use the next size down. Then your set for the season, if you have a fluke super cold, either don't go or re-jet. very easy to do on the old style carbs. 100% wrong. you jet for the coldest you are going to ride for starters and safety. but if you think you are going to jet for -30 and ride in +20 that thing is going to be a doggy pig. a piped xlt will need a tempa flow or rejetting every 20 degrees to run its best.[/color=red]

gearing is also easy to do. And you might get away with 3 extra teeth on the top gear, and 1 less on the bottom with stock chain.

when triple pipes are installed, clutching and jetting go hand in hand with it, so those 2 bases are covered.

If you really wanted to see very impressive power, bore the carburetors to 38 mm or get some 38 mm carbs (or get some 38 mm carbs and have them bored to 39.5 mm), gut your stock airbox, have your cylinder ported, install triple pipes with triple silencers, clutch and jet accordingly and re-gear 3 tooth + on top 1 gear less on bottom.

It will be a very, very fast machine.



[/quote]



gearing with pipes you dont gear up, you go smaller on the top sprocket and larger on the bottom.
 

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The XLT's are not particularly sturdy motors.. Triple piping it, and riding it hard will drastically shorten the motor life.

The best and longest lasting change in top end speed you can do is to drop a triple piped 650 in that chassis.
 

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its not worth the time and money with an xlt. i had one and i loved it but i never got out of it what i wanted, i put a long list of things on it, tripple decker pipes with stingers, new clutches , slp 654 big bore kit, slp powerdome heads, slp highflow air box, bigger carbs with boring, gearing, hours and hours of test and tuning on the carbs, clutches and suspension. by the time i sold it it was the best tuned xlt you would ever find it was perfect. ill tell you what my mechanic told me before he started to work on it , sell it and buy something bigger, that xlt motor is built really light and cant handle big hp.
 
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