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Discussion Starter #1
My poo has a 50-34 helix. What's the deal with the multi-angle helixes offered by SLP and Dalton?

What would change if I went with a 50/38/34 or a 50/42/34? Has anyone tried these out?

Anyone tried the variable secondary clutch adjuster offered by SLP?
 

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pol 50-34 helix,starts at 50 degrees only lasts a very short[maybe 3/4 of a inch] duration then changes to 34 for the rest of the ramp
a dalton progresive starts at 50 and gradually decreases,,eg 50-49 48- etc till it hits 34 near the end and remains 34.
multi angle is just that,50 till it hits a 38 till it hits a 34
the adjuster is only for quick sec spring preload adjustments
 

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With 50/38/34. it starts off as 50 degrees then comes to 38 and then the final 34 for full shiftout - just as XcSpecial stated. 50/38/34 is a slower upshift but faster backshift than the 50/42/34. It is all depends on what you want the sled to do. I dont know anything about Dalton's helixes - never tried them out. WL.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
50/38/34 is a slower upshift but faster backshift than the 50/42/34
OK WL, slower upshift means it takes longer to get to the biggest gear so to speak? But, it will gear down quicker, meaning if I lift off the throttle going into a corner I should have more grunt coming out as I hit the throttle. Versus if I had the 42 I would get to fully shifted out faster under hard acceleration. Is this right?

Sounds like for trail riding where I squirt from turn to turn the 38 would be more fun. For drag racing the 42. Since my riding bud has a much quicker and faster sled than I we don't drag race, no point. Since both helixes will end up at the same angle there will be no change in topend just how fast you get there. Think I'll try the 38.
 

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OS24, you stand correct about the helix therory. There are so many things you can try and do - what sled do you have? WL.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
WL, I have a 2000 600 XC dlx anniversary edition. It's heavy, non-ves, GenII chassis, a pig on gas, and all I've changed is 60 gram weights, 144 studs, tempaflow, C&A skis. After about 4K miles, I figure I should play with the clutches a little more (new springs, check/replace buttons, try a different helix ((coated)). I like flinging it around on tight trails more than going flat out across lakes and such. Top end is maybe 75 mph, but i have never pinned it for more than say a minute to see if it keeps creeping up. I think the stock springs are dk blue/white (primary) and silver (secondary). Stock helix is 50/34 and it pulls pretty well. My freind has a 600 HO MXZ Rev and it's way faster than mine.
 

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Wow offshore, only 75? Either your speedo is WAY off, or there's something major wrong. You should easily be hitting 90 on top end.

By the way, did you get my reply to your email?
 

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Ahh, I think I might be able to pinpoint your problem - correct me if I am wrong, did you buy your sled new? If you bought it used - I think you might have the wrong type of helix in the sled. But before I go any further, let me ask you a few other questions - what revs are you spinning at? Are you spinning past 8k revs? I have this dyno spec sheet from '98 XC6 and according to the sheet, you should be running between 7.7k -7.9k revs for the peak power. Anything over that, you'll fall flat and the sled will not pull hard like it should. Another question, is this helix that you have 50/34, is it R-32? The reason I am asking these questions because if my memory serves me correctly - I think stock weights are 58g and it supposed to use straight 36 degrees helix. Like Tfin stated, you should be well past 75mph for top end - WL.
 

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offshore.
that is the original helix in there,i think white lighting is reffering to the 700 xcsp straight 36.
i would ditch the silver spring,go for a sil/blue,drop at least one main from stock,get a pair of 1371 g needles for starters,this alone will increase your mpg.big time,
if u are running to rich you will never reach full hp it is capable off. also 7900 + 0r-100 would be close to where you want to be,
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Lots of discussion to respond to here.

TFIN I don't remember getting a resonse to my email.

Sled was stock. It should have the 50/34 R32 helix in it accodring to Polaris. I bought it from a guy, with 100 miles on it. He didn't play with it at all. He rode it on one trip and then needed to buy a new truck, so he sold his 2 sleds and trailer, to me.

Stock weights are/were 58s. I put the 60s in to drop engagement a little, which it did. It was engaging at over 5K and now it engages at 4,800. If I remember correctly, at WOT its running about 7,500 or a little better.

The mains were down 2 sizes, I then installed a Tempaflow and raised them back up one size. So I am one size down from stock. I have not played with the needles. On that note, I did run the Tempaflow adjustment full lean last season without any problems. Even at -20F it ran fine. I was checking piston wash each time i took it out. So maybe I can change needles.
 

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Jeeze, sorry about that offshore. Id replyed to your email with some info, but you obviously didn't get it.

Anyways, I think you were asking about having some fox shocks rebuilt in the Portland area. I'm not familier with any performance shops down that way, but I can recomend a couple up in my area (Waterville/Winslow).

I highly recomend Staring Line in Waterville (873-2191 or www.startingline.com ) I don't know if they rebuild them in house or send them out. But they pretty much do everything snowmobile.

Another place is Trailside Performance in Winslow (873-2366).

Both these places sell aftermarket parts/shocks as well. But for parts I HIGHLY recommend Browns Snowmobile in Benton (453-2217) He has everything and at the best prices I've found. Good people to deal with as well.

I don't know if you want to come this far north or not, but these are the places I'd recommend in my area. Good luck to ya.
 

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Ok gotcha - so basically what youre saying is what you had in it, everything was all stock excspt weights. XcSpecial - '98 XC600 and 700 uses the same clutch setup with dark blue w (58g for 600) 60g for 700 and silver w/ 36 degrees helixes. The year of '99 and '00, the 700 motors were not as powerful as the '98s but I cant say the same about the 600's. Im not sure.
OS24 - something isnt right. If youre pulling 7.5k or a little better, you need to put the 58g weights back in and let the motor spin higher revs. If youre engaging at 5k, something tells me, with (120/300) dark blue/white spring, you should be engaging lower. Couple of things I would highly recommend for you to check: one, check and see if your clutch needs rebuilding. Two: if this dk blue/white spring has been on your sled since new - replace it with a new one. Your drive belt also needs to be within spec. This is the only thing I can think of. WL.

WL.
 

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WL
maybe a little miscumunication here,but he has a 00 600 deluxe
 

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Originally posted by Xc Special
[br]WL
maybe a little miscumunication here,but he has a 00 600 deluxe
XcSpecial - I know OS24's sled is a '00 XC600 Deluxe. The reason I asked all sorts of questions to him because '98 XC600 use dk blue primary, 58g flies and silver w/ 36 straight helix. According to OS24, he says his stock comes with dk blue/white w/ 58g and silver with r-32 helix (50/34) Polaris dk blue and dk blue/white is about the same - 120/300. '98 XC6 and '00 XC6 Deluxe uses the same silver secndary except for one use 36 straight while the other one use 50/34. Maybe the reason this sled uses 50/34, because it has EXTRA-12 suspension.
(http://www.polarisman.com/channels/content/DisplayModel.cfm?ModelID=00SNO600XCDLX45&Year=2000) OS24, is your sled have Extra-12 in the rear? WL.
 

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white lighting,
alright, i just wasn.t sure,but that sled is to run 79-8000 rpms,engage at 4000
and yes it,s a extra 12,
if your only turninig 7500,dropping 2 grams ussally dosn,t give 500 rpm,i agree there is something probably worn in the clutching.a new primary spring,sil/blue sec would be the first thing i did if the rest looks good,also my tach 00 7 xcsp was out 150rpm out also
 

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I agree - how do you like your '00 XC7SP? I have 2 sleds now, one is a '98 XC7 with a 220 version and another is a '99 XCR8. I used to have a '98 XC7 w/ 824 version before trading her in last year for the XCR. I really like the XCR, that thing runs pretty good. [;)] WL.
 

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mines a keeper,have far to much invested,besides its every bit as good as the new ones out there pretty much,biggest improvement was the 1 1/4 ,and the rear edge susp.now to see how this b,bore going to do.i have a few 800,s to pound on. LOL
if this thing is not what i expected,800 tripple and a 136' is next,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yea the suspension is xtra-12. I have decided to rebuild and try new springs (trying silver/blue secondary). then I'll play with the weights, going back to the old 58s and see what's what. i replace the belt every year and check the alignment and tension. I adjust the sheave width to keep the belt pinched tight at shift out too.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
XCSpecial, did you get your tach calibrated? Is that something a dealer should be able to do?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
While we are on the subject of tuning. I have not been able to figure out how to disconnect the throttle cable from the slide on my Keihin carbs. When I play with the needles I have to unscrew the needle by distorting the spring, inserting the jet wrench and turning. Is there a way to disconnect the cable without ruining the spring?
 
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