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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok I am new to the Snowmobile game all together here, but I am vary experienced in the small engine department, and vary skilled with the hands.

Enough about me, I have a 1974 Polaris Colt I found in my back lane, was originally going to scrap it, before I realized it was a whole sled minus a ski. With a shot of quick start in each cylinder is ran for a couple seconds.

I have already removed both carbs and rebuilt them. Next the tank will be removed and cleaned. After that I have to figure out the fuel lines. I know the lowest nipple is for sediment, 6 in tube with plug. I have all the pieces ( a couple Ts ), but no clue how to run the lines, as far as I can guess it would go as follows...........

Tank to filter...... filter to Primer bulb T........... primer T to Fuel line splitter....... A line to the second lowest nipple on the carb.

Primer T to Primer bulb........ Primer bulb to splitter........ splitter to upper nipple on the carb.

My next issue is it did not have a air box, I know on a snowblower there is no air box or filter, is this the same on a sled?

Throttle cable messed up but I can figure that out. Goals to get it running so I can test the clutch and drive train.
then brakes and find a ski. once shes running, she will be getting a refurbishing. The covers in great shape so just needs a wash and paint.


Thanks in advance for all advice and help!
 

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My buddy Tom had a 250 and 340 Colt of those years. Yes, replace the lines like you mentioned. Clean the carbs by taking them apart and use some carb cleaner on them or take them somewhere and have them cleaned well. All jets need to be open. You can shine a light through them if they are clean and clear. As for the engine, I'd do a compression test on it. Tell us what it is. Low compression will need engine work at the very least. And these things do have points and condenser. Try it as is but on my buddies it was a PIA to get his going at the time when we replaced them due to it just being a PIA. (long live electronic ignition)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My buddy Tom had a 250 and 340 Colt of those years. Yes, replace the lines like you mentioned. Clean the carbs by taking them apart and use some carb cleaner on them or take them somewhere and have them cleaned well. All jets need to be open. You can shine a light through them if they are clean and clear. As for the engine, I'd do a compression test on it. Tell us what it is. Low compression will need engine work at the very least. And these things do have points and condenser. Try it as is but on my buddies it was a PIA to get his going at the time when we replaced them due to it just being a PIA. (long live electronic ignition)
So this morning I got the the fuel lines replaced and hooked up to a temp tank old one is soaking to be cleaning.
Carbs are cleaned, lines replaced. Tried starting starts first pull but dies out.
I moved the fuel line to the lowest nipple on the carb as I looked up a diagram showing the lower nipple as intake. Ran longer and better but still died out. Not sure where the line coming from the block goes either splits into 2 I assume to the carbs.

I checked on piston before attempting carb rebuilt it was 125psi I think. Online said it was acceptable.

so she runs just not sure why she’s dying out. Should they have fuel pumps?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update

This Morning I started messing with Idle needle, I originally set the screw for 1.5 turns from closed being a standard 2 cycle stock setting. It was running to lean hence the die out. after some playing around, I got the motor running and holding a stable idle. I still need to replace or fix the throttle cable. And now that its running I will be putting air filters one they are currently only open carbs, prob why it was running lean.

Next issue is the Ignition Key doesn't kill the motor, I had to choke the motor of air to kill the motor. If there is any insight on what the problem is. I will be using the volt meter to trace the problem when I have time.

Now I just need to find a ski for it.
 

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Kill switch only shorts the power to ground to kill. You have a wiring issue.
No fuel pumps on these. Engines were so small that fuel delivery was not an issue to need a pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Todays Progress.

Ok kill switch fixed, no more choking the motor.

I pulled out the Throttle cable and McGyvered that, requires more effort then one would like, but works for the moment. Will have to source out a new one, possibly a new trigger as well

Got the Track off the ground, fired it up and gave her on the gas, clutch engages, Track moves freely.


Next round or repairs.

Brake lever is seized, well not the lever the what I am assuming is a piston, I found what appears to be a reservoir above the lever. Any Advice on how to un-seize this? I just put some penetrating oil on it in hopes it helps me get it free.

I am blowing a lot of smoke when I get the motor revving, I am running a 40:1 this is what I read online. should I be running 50:1. ( Even with the smoke weather I am running it rich or the mixture to rich, the motor starts first pull every time and runs excellent considering its age)

And Thanks Steve for responding thus far!!

This ones not important I can easily trace the issue myself, but incase some one knows something I don't. None of my lights are working. I figured one bulb would be good, for all I know they are all dead. but some of the harness is rotted out, so I will do some cut and paste and go from there.

Any heads up on anything else I should be looking as as well. I see some grease nipples that will get lubed but anything that does not have a nipple ( tehehehehe) I should be lubing or attending to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
lol not sure if anyone's following but meh.

So today I pulled the brake lever assembly off. Even after soaking in penetrating oil it was a real B to get the piston out, but its out. clearly had water sitting in it at one point, spring was in 4 pieces. and the little piece of exposed metal at the base of the spring was rusted to shit. After some time of scraping brake cleaner scraping brake cleaner and a final shot of carb cleaner, got almost all of the rust out and the lines cleaned out. I did not have proper seals to replace them that next on the search list. But as of now I reassembled and installed the brake line and lever. Bleed the brakes. Fired up the motor, the Brakes work, got the tracks going and the came to a full stop in 5 secs or less. Definitely need new seals but now I know the pistons not seized.

Also already started making Brackets to Temp put wheels on the front so I can do test runs and get it in and out of the garage ( Mainly out lol ).

Found skis for it as well. Just got to drive out of town to get it lol .
 

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Bit off the topic.... But does this motor have DUAL points ?? Two separate sets of points?
 

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Do you need a copy of the Polaris Master Repair Manual for your machine? If so drop me a PM with your email address and I'll send you one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I am not sure what you mean by points, but with my knowledge of motors, I assume it has something to do with the ignition coil/set up. If correct. I am not sure, considering how long it may have sat, I didn’t have dog any deeper then removing the carbs on the motor to get it running well ( amazingly enough ).
 
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