Snowmobile Fanatics banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just picked up a 1997 ZR 440 today and lucky the sled is beautiful! Everything on it looks brand new and it runs good! But it has over 5000 miles on it but yet it still has over 125 compression. But the brake has a issue i think, the Guy said he put on a new break pads but the pads seem a little to tight on the roter. And the clutch what rpm should it be engaging at?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I do have pics but i have no idea of how to upload them. But it dose engage pretty high it seems like. But i think thats cause of the breaks i will try to figure it out tomorrow.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,677 Posts
Factory clutch engagement was 5000 RPM, with a peak of 8500-8600 RPM.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ohh alright thank you for the info. I was also told that it takes premium gas? is that right or can i use unleaded?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,382 Posts
You should be fine with regular gas. I always ran regular in Cat 440's. Check owners manual first if available.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Oh Alright. And now the shocks, It has a adjust able knob right by the handle bars. If i put it all the way in whats that good for? If i twist it all the way out what that good for? And the front shocks how do i adjust them?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
11,677 Posts
The knob is a dial-adjust for the front skid shock. By adjusting it, you can increase/decrease your ski pressure for your desired riding style. My '98 ZR 600 had the same setup, and I never really noticed a huge difference when adjusting it. Alot of people swapped the dial-adjust out for a standard Fox shock, as the dial-adjust were known to be problematic for lines breaking and ruining the shock. If you run it as is, just make sure all the lines are properly tied up so they cannot contact the track.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
ok thank you for the info. On the brake assembly whats the proper way of bleeding the brake lines and stuff? And how do you adjust it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
high mileage is nothing these days. kind of like cars, 100,000 miles on a car is not bad, like 5000-6000 mile on a sled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,382 Posts
polarisorbust said:
high mileage is nothing these days. kind of like cars, 100,000 miles on a car is not bad, like 5000-6000 mile on a sled.
Got 5700 miles on the ZL and she is still running strong.
 
Joined
·
1,792 Posts
polarisorbust said:
high mileage is nothing these days. kind of like cars, 100,000 miles on a car is not bad, like 5000-6000 mile on a sled.
Even still, I'd prefer buying a sled with 3500 or fewer miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
I just look at how they are maintained. If it is a beat to hell sled with 2000 miles on it, I would rather take a mint condition sled with 9000 miles on it. that's what I prefer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
844 Posts
5000 miles, but has good compression still, I'd ride the bejeezus out of it!
Any idea if it has been rebuilt?
Unless he had it apart, there shouldn't be any reason to bleed the brakes.
Not sure why they should be tight on the rotor. Wrong pads maybe?

With a couple small changes, and a couple cheap upgrades, this could quite
possibly be the funnest (not necessarily fastest) sled you've riden.
I know mine is[thumb]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah hopefully!I like the word cheap, what type of upgrades do you suggest?
cat-sass said:
5000 miles, but has good compression still, I'd ride the bejeezus out of it!
Any idea if it has been rebuilt?
Unless he had it apart, there shouldn't be any reason to bleed the brakes.
Not sure why they should be tight on the rotor. Wrong pads maybe?

With a couple small changes, and a couple cheap upgrades, this could quite
possibly be the funnest (not necessarily fastest) sled you've riden.
I know mine is[thumb]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
161 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ohh alright thanks for the help i understand it now. But the guy i bought it from decided to build his own pipe. Its a straight pipe dose that have any back pressure? And this that the reason for it to be spraying out carbon? Like i start it up and let it warm up then rev it a little then black stuff comes out and leaves a stain on the cement. Ps sorry for posting it twice but i did not mean to post it on the other thread.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,422 Posts
Musky30 said:
Ohh alright thanks for the help i understand it now. But the guy i bought it from decided to build his own pipe. Its a straight pipe dose that have any back pressure? And this that the reason for it to be spraying out carbon? Like i start it up and let it warm up then rev it a little then black stuff comes out and leaves a stain on the cement. Ps sorry for posting it twice but i did not mean to post it on the other thread.
Depends on the diameter and how long it is. A small pipe with 2+ feet of length will have pleanty of back pressure.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top