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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just wanted to introduce myself.

I just picked up a 2005 XCSP with 1800mi. Looking forward to doing some mods to it. As of now it has 4" riser, Ripsaw track with 96 studs up the middle, Boysen reeds, and hand guards.

Ive been into snowmobiles for awhile. Started with John Deeres (which I still own and take on Vintage rides.)

I just sold a 95 Indy XLT and few other sleds to purchase a new sled for next year!

So now I have all summer to get the 05' shined up and ready for snow. Ive been searching the site for some things I can add to enhance the over all performance.

If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do with the XCSP let me know! [thumb]

Thanks!
Eric
 

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how many cc's is it?
 

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Welcome to the site. A lot of good info on here if you're willing to search the topics, and congrats on the recent purchase.

You're gonna get a lot of advice on what you could do to you sled, here's my .02 cents: clutching and gearing - wakes up a stock sled everytime. Enjoy the site.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Its a 600. Has the perc reverse, gas gauge, temp gauge, and electric start.

Sounds like the almond color spring is a good one to use. Is there a p/n that goes along with it?

Thanks!
 

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nice sled and welcome! i have the same sled mine looks a bit different now though heres some pics of mine also all of my mods are listed below


20091230204223475_13662.jpg

200912621189893_13662.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Polaris91....

How does your sled keep up with that 700 Fusion? My buddy has one. Just wondering if I will be able to run with him...[:D]

Thanks!
 

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If you are looking to increase performance, clutch kit will give you the best bang for your buck. And since you already have studs, it will all get to the ground without a problem. silencers for the 600 are common, but don't offer much performance gains, just sound and weightloss
 

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itll run with him up till about 100 then he slowly pulls on me
 

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here are some Modification ideas:

BEST BANG FOR THE BUCK MODS

1) HOLTZMAN ATAAC, spot on jetting ALL the time, improves throttle response and mileage (www.holtzmaneng.com) approx $240.00, I had this on my 2 sleds and 3 of my bud's, E-Z (less than 1 hour install) does everything it says.

2) HOT SEAT PERFORMANCE or BMP heads, for use w/91 octane, easy bolt-on, improves bottom end and mid-range GRUNT!!!

3) 96 or More studs, I ran (144) 1.3125" Woody's Gold Mege Bite square tip Studs with the 1.25" square plastic backers, traction is where it's at, all the H.P. and clutching in the world will be useless unless you're coupled to the ground.


almost FREE MODS

PRIMARY CLUTCH:

1) Set your belt to primary sheave side clearance, should be .010" to .015" w/NEW belt, mine was .070" from the factory. This improves acceleration and reduces the slamming effect onto the crankshaft upon engagement thereby further extending crank shaft life.

2) Install a new primary clutch spring @ the start of every season. (approx $30.00) I ran the stock Dark Blue/White with 60 grams weights, some guys preferred 61 or 62's

3) Send your clutch out to have it balanced (preferably after you've set the belt to sheave side clearance) only $35.00, extends clutch and crankshaft life and reduces vibration, well worth doing, XCR1250 (Here on H.C.S.) and others offer this service.


SECONDARY

1) Install a new secondary spring at the start of every season (approx $30.00)

2) Check / replace (3) plastic wear buttons, they're only $1.00 each


BOTH PRIMARY & SECONDARY

1) Align your clutches (offset and center to center), You may have to shim behind the rear engine bracket with thin Chevrolet style starter shims (available @ auto parts stores under the "HELP' brand) to get it perfect.

2) Lightly sand BOTH primary and secondary clutches w/180 grit perpendicular to the way the belt rides and wipe down w/lacquer thinner.

3) Wash/scrub (with a plastic bristle brush) w/soap & HOT water your new belt and let dry overnight, sounds weird, but it removes the "mold release" compound that would otherwise would get smeared all over your nice clean clutches.

4) I prefer the # 3211087 (close tolerance belt) over the # 3211080 (standard edge belt) although your dealer may have to order it for you.



ENGINE LIMITER

Install a WMS TORQUE ARM engine limiter on the PTO side, approx $83.00, E-Z installation SLP part # 23-52, also available from TRI-CITY POLARIS



EXHAUST VALVES

1) ) Clean your exhaust valves and valve bores, they're probably dirtier/gummier than you think, also clean the bores with some carb cleaner/lacquer thinner on a shop rag and run that in & out on the exhaust valve bores a bit. Avoid using the wire wheel to clean the aluminum valves as they have a hardened coating on them and the wire wheel will end up damaging that.

2) Exhaust bellows, check for small rips and tears. The original exhaust bellows were blue, the latest and greatest bellows are Orange in color.



CHECK AND RESET YOUR T.P.S. (Easier to do than you realize)

1) Look at the pinned topics at the top of the PRO-X section, there's a thread tells you how to build your own tester for less than $10.00 with parts from Radio Shack, double check the voltage on your tester, DON'T OVERLOOK THIS, you want 5.000 volts EXACTLY!

2) The EDGE's get set at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE, spec is 4.0-4.1 volts.

3) Move the throttle gradually from idle to full throttle and back down again while watching the needle on your analog style voltmeter as you want it to move gradually in synch with the throttle, an erratic needle reading indicates a faulty T.P.S. and replace if neccesary.



CHAIN CASE

1) Open up your chain case at the start of every season, wipe out the muck and metal shavings.

2) Check your chain tension in the chain case, adjust it to where the chain will almost touch the backside of the case w/finger pressure.

3) Place a metal straight edge onto the sprockets and make sure they're PERFECTLY in line. You can obtain some 1" I.D. valve spring shims from the auto parts stores or automotive cylinder head rebuilding shops, they come in a variety of thicknesses, .030", .060" These shims also fit the secondary shaft for fine tuning the offset and free play.



OTHER: OIL PUMP CALIBRATION, TRACK TENSION, MAINTENANCE:

1) Check your oil pump calibration , I used 1 quart of oil in approx 160-165 miles, check with a light and mirror, look for the alignment marks to line up as a starting point. 40:1 is 1 quart per 10 gallons of fuel, I prefer to run @ 55:1 or 60:1 (approx 22 ounces per 10 gallons of fuel) There's a picture of the oil pump posted in the IQ section, thread pinned at the top TECH TIPS FOR 600/700/800 Free Mods and Best Bang for the Buck

2) Run your track looser that specs, approx 1" to 1 1/2" sag just sitting there on the stand.


SKI's

1) Check ski alignment, 1/8" toe out is preferred

2) Check out www.bergstromskis.com Very informative site, especially the info on shimming the stock skis to eliminate the "darting" issue instead of purchasing a $350.00 pair of skis

3) Replace ski with an aftermarket brand; A good brand is C&A Pro, the handle breat, id recoment a razor or Outlaw model.

DEBATEABLE

SLP Big Air Kit and Flo-Rites, ($42.95 + (2) X $19.95= approx $83.00) E-Z to install, I just didn't notice any difference that's all. However, they do cause a noticeable increase in intake noise, if you like your sled quiet, don't do this mod.



WASTE OF $$$$$ I.M.O.

1) V-Force reeds, maybe slightly more responsive on it's best day, V-force's were definitely NOT worth the $258.00 and installation time!!

3) Roller Secondary. The "old style" button secondary is faster on top end.

4) Boost bottles

5) 8" rear wheels

6) Anti-ratchet drive wheels



Hope this helps!


Oh and here are some clutching recommendations for all around TRAIL use. The weights needed will depend on your engines state of tune, your weight, track weight, riding conditions. The helix/secondary spring choice will depend on parts availability. These are my preferences, and the combos work. Other combos are possible, and I do not doubt other peoples testing results.

On all sleds with 23/39 gearing stock, 23/40 gives less chain dogleg, and slightly better acceleration, with no loss of speed. The chain must be stretched, and the tensioner may need to be ground for the chain to fit properly. Use lightweight gear #2900141 if possible. Reduces rotating mass.

The TEAM secondary upgrade is for riders primarily concerned with lightening quick backshift in all snow conditions, and who may upgrade to PERC reverse. The button clutch can be tuned for a very quick backshift, but it is not an easy task for the majority of riders. The TEAM is a bolt on and forget it change.

With all combos rpm should be at 8-8100 rpm. (actual rpm, tach must be calibrated to read a proper 8000 rpm).

Low budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Stock secondary set-up. At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).

Medium Budget

Button Secondary- almond/blue primary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. Silver/blue, hot seat orange, or erlandson orange (light, not HD) secondary spring. #2 or 3 hole. Helix change to HSP34X (best), HSP34S, Dalton PR52/42-34. Other helixes may work, but these are my preferred ones.

TEAM Secondary- almond/blue prmary spring, or slp 140/310 for slightly lower engagement rpm. 10-60 or 10-62 weights. For quick backshift and snappy response, almond/blue and 10-60's. Black secondary spring with 64/42-.46, or 64/42-.36 helix. For lower cruising rpm, and slightly higher top speed, a red/dk. blue secondary spring (same as stock). Some sleds will pull a 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 but not in deep snow conditions (usually). At a minimum 1 #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup. 2 may be used, one in the cup and one under. Or 3, one in the cup, one under, and one in the spider (opposite end of spring).


High Budget

Primary clutch set-up almond/blue or slp 140/310, 10-60 or 10-62 weights. TEAM TSS-04 Lightweight secondary clutch. (Saves 1 lb. rotating mass, plus the lighter helix. If comparing TSS-98 with twin trax helix (not factory polaris) and steel spring, to TSS-04 with twin trax helix and titanium spring, the TSS-04 is 1lb. 8 oz. lighter). 64/42-.46 or 64/42-.36 helix with black or red/dk. blue spring. 64/44-.46 or 66-44-42, .46/.25/.25 may work also in certain conditions. One #420720 Delrin washer under the spring cup.

(copy and paste from HCS)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks! For all that great info!

I will make my way through the list over the summer.

I may come up with some questions as I go through it all.

Any thoughts on SLP cans? I hear they emlimate weight but no real gain in HP. Just get that louder exhaust...

[thumb]
 

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i have one on my sled it sounds really nice
 

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427cobra said:
Any thoughts on SLP cans? I hear they emlimate weight but no real gain in HP. Just get that louder exhaust...

[thumb]
as i already said- That is how every aftermarket can will be
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks Parts_MN

Where is the pinned topic on the TPS? I cant seem to find that...[confused]

GREAT SITE!!
 

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the whole post from jesse500 was a copy and paste from hardcoresledder.com so the pinned topic should be on that site somewhere, not here on SF
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the heads up!
 

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SLP twins = real performance gains along with the proper jetting/clutching to get it to the ground. SLP cans are all I use as well, more noise doesn't get you more power.
 

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427cobra said:
Well I just wanted to introduce myself.

I just picked up a 2005 XCSP with 1800mi. Looking forward to doing some mods to it. As of now it has 4" riser, Ripsaw track with 96 studs up the middle, Boysen reeds, and hand guards.

Ive been into snowmobiles for awhile. Started with John Deeres (which I still own and take on Vintage rides.)

I just sold a 95 Indy XLT and few other sleds to purchase a new sled for next year!

So now I have all summer to get the 05' shined up and ready for snow. Ive been searching the site for some things I can add to enhance the over all performance.

If anyone has any suggestions on what I can do with the XCSP let me know! [thumb]

Thanks!
Eric
vary nice machine, my friend has a 500 and loves it
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh yeah...dont want that.

Maybe save the $$ and put it towards something else. Decisions Decisions!

It wouldnt be so bad to try one if they werent $250.

I think I will start with going through the entire sled and performing all the maintenance. then figure out the upgrades. But I think a clutch kit may be one fo the first things. I dont think I can install one of those torque arms since I have electric start....

Maybe some shock covers as well...just to dress it up a little. Anyone know if the shock protectors work well?

Thanks for all the input!
 
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