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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Early in 2021 I went to look at a used wheeler from a private seller and ended up leaving with a snowmobile! It's a 2000 Polaris Indy 600 Touring. Only issues known at the time was the battery needed to be replaced and the reverse wasn't working. We rode it around on our couple acres in northern WI shortly after buying it but spring came early so it never saw the trails.

I just brought it home this past weekend so i could work on it. Shockingly it fired right up after a couple pulls after sitting idle for almost a year. It seems to be idling on the high side, i think it was around 3k RPM and i noticed it would occasionally backfire after letting off on the throttle...not sure if they are related issues or not.

What should a machine like this idle at?
Is there a process or technique i should follow for adjusting the idle (ie: let it warm up for X minutes and then adjust such and such screw)?

As for the reverse, where do i even begin to diagnose that issue?
 

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first check the carb boots for cracks or holes ,vacuum leaks will cause high , hanging idol issues too lean,, you can use carb spray to spray the areas be careful of fires, if the idol speed changes you have a leak,, idol speed should be 1700 to 1900 I normally mark each idol screw and turn equally, each carb.. if u need to set them from zero , you will need a 1/4 and 7/32 drill bits , start by backing off all 3 idol screws, then back off the cables so the slide is bottomed out in the carb, take the 7/32 drill and adjust each carb cable so the drill bit has a slight drag ,lock the cables , next take the 1/4 drill and adjust each idol screw to have the same slight drag, fuel or air screw 3/4 to 1 1/4 out make sure you remark the idol screws for minor adjustments, as for revs , if its a mechanical set up , you will need to pull the chain cover inspect for what's broke, the more precise you adjust the carbs the better the results after you do any adjustments make sure the track is off the ground before you start it incase its way to high
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So i didn't really get to mess with the idle this weekend.

I did pull the chaincase cover. I thought the culprit was the chain was super loose. It was so loose that i could just lift the chain up and over that split gear on the left side in the middle....it's the one where the hub is notched so it fits the other identical gear/hub. I tightend up the chain, installed a new gasket (no oil in case either) and put everything back together. Unfortunately the reverse still isn't working :( When i pull the reverse lever it is disengaging something as the sled no longer moves forward when i get on the throttle. I don't hear any grinding or anything so i'm not sure what to look for next??
Nothing looked broken inside the case. All i found was dry rotted and disinegrated case gasket. The fork looked in good shape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I should note that the shift shaft sits at about 11 o'clock position and then when i pull the reverse lever it goes to maybe 10 o'clock...basically it doesn't move much at all.
 

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I'm a little confused here on what you found in the chain case ,are you saying there's only upper and lower gears, and no oil in there, if so prior owner may have deleted revs , and you have a big leak
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My apologies. So laying in the bottom of the case cover i found pieces of the gasket, so i suspect it dry rotted and because of that the oil that was in the case leaked out over time. As for the gears, i have everything shown in the photo below, so i don't think anything is missing.

Before i tightened the chain, i was able to spin gears # 27 and 25 without them touching the chain, so i suspect that was my problem. From what i've read normally the fork #22 is broken, but mine looked fine. But after tightening the chain, replacing the gasket and adding oil i still don't have reverse.

The shift shaft that i referenced is #19 in the photo.

So what should i be looking at next for a solution?

Font Technical drawing Engineering Auto part Aircraft
 

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Does your reverse lever make the fork move and activate the smaller gearset? Can you check this with the cover off?

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I pulled the chaincase cover again last night for a more thorough inspection. I removed everything from the inside the case so i could fully see what was all hiding in there.
  • One of the "ears" on the hub of gear #25 was broken off and laying in the case.
  • The 2 bolts that hold part #30 onto the back half of the case are snapped off flush with the back case and the part itself was laying at the bottom.
  • 3 teeth on gear #37 are kind of mashed up on one end (ill attach photo), i suspect i can file the burr's down and it should be ok.
  • The end of the dipstick was chewed off, guessing when some of those other items fells off or broke it somehow got pulled into the chain.
Questions:
  1. What issues/damage am i risking by not extracting the busted bolts for part #30 and not putting that part back in?
  2. Gear #25 is $$$$. Are there alternatives to buying a new gear or a cheap place to find one?
  3. Before disassembling this case and finding all these issues, the linkage arm (#19) only rotated about 20 degrees when you pulled the reverse lever. When functioning properly, how much should it rotate?
 

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I think you may be better off calling around to sled boneyards and acquiring a replacement case with all the contents. Sounds like this one got beat up pretty good. Maybe someone was stuck and tried the throttle down throw it in reverse motion.....and it didn't fare well. There are probably a bunch of sleds from that era that share this case and reverse system.

Not sure on the lever movement.....I have push button reverse and love it!

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
We only have 1 local salvage yard, i have a call out to them now.

The sled has obviously been running for awhile in it's current state. So is there any risk if i just put in a new #25 gear, not reinstall that chain retention bracket, tighten the chain, add oil and call it good?
 

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I guess my worry would be doubled in that A) not having all the correct parts in there could cause other parts to shift/move and if you have ever seen a chain case grenade....it doesn't take much then there is B)no reverse after all of that work. Not sure if it's possible but could you remove the reverse parts all together and get regular hyvo chain and gears from a forward only sled....? Thinking aloud and trying to help yah.

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I guess i don't understand the chain retnetion brackets purpose. If the chain is tight like it should be, why would the bracket ever come into play?

I appreciate the help!
 

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It may have something to do with the shift from forward to reverse? Wouldn't the chain want to slack in the opposite direction if you went in reverse....?

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Maybe, but i can't imagine it slacking alot given the low speed nature of going in reverse.
 
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